Put the 17" OEM wheels on the car the other day
10-27-2008, 11:28 AM
#11
AudiWorld Super User
I think you might have to unbolt the curved arm too. You need to be able pull the whole hub
"out" towards you so there's enough room to get the axle out.
I couldn't get enough movement by just unbolting the straight arm. Let me know if you do. Instead of messing around with the balljoint end, I cut the bolt and installed a new one in the other direction.
I figured I'll have to do that at some point anyway when installing new lower arms.
Bob
I couldn't get enough movement by just unbolting the straight arm. Let me know if you do. Instead of messing around with the balljoint end, I cut the bolt and installed a new one in the other direction.
I figured I'll have to do that at some point anyway when installing new lower arms.
Bob
10-27-2008, 01:54 PM
#17
AudiWorld Super User
it might be possible, I was by myself though. I couldn't pull the hub out (and hold it there)....
...while pulling the axle out. An extra set of hands would help.
10-27-2008, 02:01 PM
#18
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I took upper pinch bolt out, removed the two upper arms from the upright....
unbolted the swaybar link, then unbolted the straight arm from the front subframe and had plenty of room to pull the axle out of the hub back towards the trans, then pulled the whole unit out towards the back of the front upright.
if that all makes sense
if that all makes sense
10-27-2008, 03:51 PM
#19
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Re: Haven't done this on an A (or S) car yet, but on V8s of olde....
and the 200q20v front axle I just pulled to do the wheel bearing, I just needed to undo the inner CV, raise it up and toward the back of the engine slightly, and turn the wheels toward opposite direction (to the left when working on a right axle), and I could pull the axle out without undoing any of the suspension bits.
