Do yourself a SERIOUS favor. At each corner you are working on - power bleed at least 200ml of fresh brake fluid through the caliper. Starting on the rear RR- furthest away RL, FR and finish with the closest caliper- FL (Fresh, NEW VW DOT 4 - mine for 2006 A8L was part # B 000 750 M3). Call audi parts with your VIN to get the part number fluid for your VIN. I go for the steel can, fresh off the shelf It’s AMAZING the difference fresh fluid will make. After 2-3 years a lot of moisture is absorbed by the fluid and boil/reboil effects it over the years. What I’ve found is some lazy/criminal dealerships/shops charge you $500, dont do the work, just top off the fluid and wipe the cap off. You dont know its done right unless you do this job. It’s easy and only about an hours job. Consider the complexity of an ABS pump and ABS valving unit and having water mixed in with your fluid. It really overworks your ABS pump because water compression and steaming at 212F isn’t supposed to be present. It also reduces the effectiveness of your braking dramatically. Another comment - make sure the rotors you buy have the chamfered/recessed 30torex retaining hole to screw and attach the rotor to the hub. The prior first owner of my car got generic rotors that lack this feature and it’s a REAL pain getting the rotor to stay on and in place putting the tire back on. I almost stripped a lug on install because of the crap rotor. Sadly, he got some generic ceramic pads that are 40K Miles and no signs of wear but brake okay. I really want to throw them away, but they wont wear out. On the generic china rotors and super duty ceramic pads we are getting over 100K on front brakes these days. But the performance isn’t at spec.