first oil change coming up, question
#1
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first oil change coming up, question
Oil is due to a change soon on my 06 A8 and I'm contemplating getting a "suck out" pump. A friend has a Pella pump and I noticed he has to hold the thing down and pull it up. If not the pump cylinder will pull right off. I was thinking of putting a piece of plywood on the bottom to stand on and hold it down, but the cylinder would still pull off.
Is there one of these gizmos that you can push the lever down like a old time water pump on a farm? Also the 6 litres on this thing is fine for his BMW but not enough capacity for my A8. I also know there are air pressure activated pumps but probably more money than I want to spend.
Is there one of these gizmos that you can push the lever down like a old time water pump on a farm? Also the 6 litres on this thing is fine for his BMW but not enough capacity for my A8. I also know there are air pressure activated pumps but probably more money than I want to spend.
#2
AudiWorld Super User
You should post motor you have in your sig. or avatar, since it matters here. I'm guessing 4.2? If W12, waste of time since filter is completely underneath.
I get doing this on a newer car somewhat, or if it is bitterly cold when changing. Yeah, I'm a dinosaur too. Honestly though, belly pan off is the single biggest diagnostic tool for me other than VCDS. No fun really, but I suck it up. What you don't then see with pump and run instead can hurt your wallet a bunch more later, and/or leave you stranded. Thus simply looking at top side of belly pan when pulled to get at drain plug (and filter on D3 W12 or my D4 S8) tells me a whole lot. Pinkish powder or staining = coolant leak, and often you can sort of figure location--radiator, a hose, water pump, etc. PS fluid is light viscosity, and motor oil is as expected. You will also invariably see CV boots well exposed to eyes. You can also look around tranny pan at same time. Advanced course includes that heavy brownish look oil is blown motor or torque mount if roughly below them, and little rubber flecks up front mean take a really good look at belts. If 4.2, also "when not if" on the oil cooler pipe it seems, so this is how you can do "watchful waiting" on it.
Frankly on an 11 year old car, it probably is not a question of whether or not something is leaking or torn, but what is in that condition now. And annually for a basic health check for that matter thereafter. I have found a lot of issues doing this, both for warranty and then post warranty for me to fix--before it become a big deal or roadside issue. In particular, in last 3 or 4 years on a 2006 W12 with now about 125K miles, almost every time I have been under there annually I found something with exactly this method. Thus, coolant stains leading to a front hose and water pump, tranny fluid mess needing only a pan tightening apparently (but really big bucks or even total on a 4.2 value wise if it ever crapped out), and weeping CV axle boot starting to spray some grease. Back under CPO or 4/50 warranty it got me new valve cover gaskets, a new radiator due to very slight seepage, new sway bar links, and a front torque mount that is over full day of shop labor on a W12.
I get doing this on a newer car somewhat, or if it is bitterly cold when changing. Yeah, I'm a dinosaur too. Honestly though, belly pan off is the single biggest diagnostic tool for me other than VCDS. No fun really, but I suck it up. What you don't then see with pump and run instead can hurt your wallet a bunch more later, and/or leave you stranded. Thus simply looking at top side of belly pan when pulled to get at drain plug (and filter on D3 W12 or my D4 S8) tells me a whole lot. Pinkish powder or staining = coolant leak, and often you can sort of figure location--radiator, a hose, water pump, etc. PS fluid is light viscosity, and motor oil is as expected. You will also invariably see CV boots well exposed to eyes. You can also look around tranny pan at same time. Advanced course includes that heavy brownish look oil is blown motor or torque mount if roughly below them, and little rubber flecks up front mean take a really good look at belts. If 4.2, also "when not if" on the oil cooler pipe it seems, so this is how you can do "watchful waiting" on it.
Frankly on an 11 year old car, it probably is not a question of whether or not something is leaking or torn, but what is in that condition now. And annually for a basic health check for that matter thereafter. I have found a lot of issues doing this, both for warranty and then post warranty for me to fix--before it become a big deal or roadside issue. In particular, in last 3 or 4 years on a 2006 W12 with now about 125K miles, almost every time I have been under there annually I found something with exactly this method. Thus, coolant stains leading to a front hose and water pump, tranny fluid mess needing only a pan tightening apparently (but really big bucks or even total on a 4.2 value wise if it ever crapped out), and weeping CV axle boot starting to spray some grease. Back under CPO or 4/50 warranty it got me new valve cover gaskets, a new radiator due to very slight seepage, new sway bar links, and a front torque mount that is over full day of shop labor on a W12.
Last edited by MP4.2+6.0; 12-04-2017 at 05:21 PM.
#3
AudiWorld Super User
Let's see, Pela has some much larger gear. Have you looked? Also, MityVac.
In addition, there are some more $$$ solutions that attach to your air compressor. This would be more in-line with the device used at the dealership.
In addition, there are some more $$$ solutions that attach to your air compressor. This would be more in-line with the device used at the dealership.
#4
AudiWorld Senior Member
Mityvac is the only way to fly. That thing looks like it holds about 4 quarts. The Mityvac holds about 8.8 liters.
Cost for pneumatic is cheaper than manual. Pneumatic is under $100 .
Cost for pneumatic is cheaper than manual. Pneumatic is under $100 .
Last edited by richard-tx; 12-05-2017 at 06:07 AM.
#5
AudiWorld Member
But after reading the response that suggests pulling the belly pan can expose future issues is very very interesting. I would listen to him!
#7
AudiWorld Super User
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#8
AudiWorld Member
I have also done it a couple of times... it wasn't that much fun... but it was late in the fall and was quite cold out (Canada)... I'm not a big fan of lying on a cold ground sheet. I only have sport ramps that lift the car about 10"... there are a ton of fasteners and not alot of swinging room. But you're right it was not that hard, but certainly not something I look forward to! Thus the reason I grabbed the TopSider... which works fantastic. But based on MP4.2/6.0's advice, I think I will pull the belly pan every other oil change, just to take a look underneath.
#9
AudiWorld Member
I used a suction called the Liquivac from the same makers of the topsider. It just barely accommodates all of the 8.5 L of oil form the 4.2L engine, so it's size is just right. In the '09 a8: the splash shield is 1 big piece, that has this stuffing in it. It gets a bit warped out of shape. it took me about 2+ hours to put... no not put, to wrestle it on and a lot of muscle strain working on the car on ramps. So I'm happy to change the oil with a suction to avoid that. When I get a coupon from the Audi dealer for an oil change, I'll take it to them and they can take deal with their creation, and let me know if something is going on down there.
#10
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Clarification: Thanks to all who replied. However, it seems to have turned into a discussion about removing the bottom shield. I appreciate the recommendations on various suck out devices. However my main question was not answered.
In the video I posted about the Pela, it is necessary to pull the handle upwards while holding the unit an suction cylinder down. Getting back to my question. "Is there a manual device that you push the handle down. Think about the kitchen or yard pump in your great grandparents house many years ago or the ones you seen on Little house on the prairie and other western TV episodes.
Air pressure might be nice but I really think for a manual unit, pushing down without having to hold the unit would be desireable. Does such a device exist?
In the video I posted about the Pela, it is necessary to pull the handle upwards while holding the unit an suction cylinder down. Getting back to my question. "Is there a manual device that you push the handle down. Think about the kitchen or yard pump in your great grandparents house many years ago or the ones you seen on Little house on the prairie and other western TV episodes.
Air pressure might be nice but I really think for a manual unit, pushing down without having to hold the unit would be desireable. Does such a device exist?