Halogen Parking Light to LED SWAP (pic intensive)
#172
Introducing resistors is a receipt for setting your car on fire. Resistors would be very hot. Unless properly sized and provided with heat sinks they can start fire. Even if all is well designed they are just waste of energy. On the other hand, stronger LED's will not throw any code and will give more light. Isn't that the point?
I also agree that cutting wires and adding resistors is not a good idea for me. Maybe someone else. I may try a buld with a higher number of LEDs, but for right now I'm done.
#173
AudiWorld Senior Member
I put all LEDs interior lights.
Supposed to be error free I think they mean they will give you the errors for free.
I like the bright white light so just put up with the error codes also.
Number plate LEDs do not throw a code though.
Supposed to be error free I think they mean they will give you the errors for free.
I like the bright white light so just put up with the error codes also.
Number plate LEDs do not throw a code though.
#174
License plate were next for me going to replace them tomorrow
#175
AudiWorld Senior Member
Only replaced bulbs in the number plate light. They have like a heat sink on the LEDs.
Tried to buy the led complete units advertised for d3 but were the wrong size and only one fixing hole. Don't know if the early a8s are different with the two fixing holes.
Tried to buy the led complete units advertised for d3 but were the wrong size and only one fixing hole. Don't know if the early a8s are different with the two fixing holes.
#176
AudiWorld Senior Member
Today, I swapped out these:
For these:
I'll wait until I see them at night to judge them completely, but so far they are not as bright, and still throw an error message (I read that for some, they don't). I was hoping that these would be bright enough to use as DRLs, instead of the headlights.
Amazon.com: 194 LED Light bulb, Yorkim® 2015 Newest, 5th Generation, Interior Lights for W5W 194 168 2825 T10 Wedge 5-smd 5050, Replacement and Reverse T10 White Bulbs, Used For Signal Lights, Trunk Lights, Dashboard Lights, Parking Lights, With Great Brightness and Longer Life(Pack of 10): Automotive
For these:
I'll wait until I see them at night to judge them completely, but so far they are not as bright, and still throw an error message (I read that for some, they don't). I was hoping that these would be bright enough to use as DRLs, instead of the headlights.
#177
AudiWorld Member
Join Date: Dec 2015
Location: Seoul, South Korea
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I debated if I should resurrect this or not, sorry if I should not have.
I spent about 6 hours working on this. I had no problems with the passenger side. In fact, thanks to the great pictures, I noticed whoever removed the air filter housing last did not reinstall it correctly. The accordion looking piece connecting to the front had been flipped and reversed...
Anyway, the driver side was the culprit. I attempted to move the headlight as suggested, but after loosening the screws it only moved about 1/2 a centimeter.
I could barely get my hand in the back and feel the light, but I practiced on the passenger and was sure I was hitting the correct light on the driver side, even though I could not see. Problem was it would not budge.
I also confirmed on the passenger side it is possible to turn the bulb and "lock" it in. I am assuming that is what is going on the driver side, that it is "locked." But I couldn't get it to move or turn at all. I couldn't get a grip on it to really tell if it was stuck or not, but suffice it to say, it would not move. On the passenger side I could turn it with just one finger pushing. My worry is perhaps it has somehow melted some plastic around it or something terrible.
A mechanic walked by twice and took pity on me and tried to help. We loosened the hydraulic (?) tank, but it hardly moved out of the way at all. The next thing to try was to try and get some needle nose pliers in it but even if I could get the pliers in, I wouldn't be able to see what they were touching.
Has anyone had this issue? Also, am I not understanding the headlight removal correctly, in that it should move out more than 0.5 centimeters? (2008 model). It appears to be blocked by a piece of bumper / grill. Any suggestions? Next step is to bring it to the shop, which I'm worried they will make a much bigger deal out of it. Looking like unless I'm missing something with moving the headlight the bumper etc will have to come off, which I cannot do (I live in an apartment in Manhattan, so no good place to do that much work).
Even worse, that bulb is actually burned out, so I really need to get to it...or someone does.
Thanks
I spent about 6 hours working on this. I had no problems with the passenger side. In fact, thanks to the great pictures, I noticed whoever removed the air filter housing last did not reinstall it correctly. The accordion looking piece connecting to the front had been flipped and reversed...
Anyway, the driver side was the culprit. I attempted to move the headlight as suggested, but after loosening the screws it only moved about 1/2 a centimeter.
I could barely get my hand in the back and feel the light, but I practiced on the passenger and was sure I was hitting the correct light on the driver side, even though I could not see. Problem was it would not budge.
I also confirmed on the passenger side it is possible to turn the bulb and "lock" it in. I am assuming that is what is going on the driver side, that it is "locked." But I couldn't get it to move or turn at all. I couldn't get a grip on it to really tell if it was stuck or not, but suffice it to say, it would not move. On the passenger side I could turn it with just one finger pushing. My worry is perhaps it has somehow melted some plastic around it or something terrible.
A mechanic walked by twice and took pity on me and tried to help. We loosened the hydraulic (?) tank, but it hardly moved out of the way at all. The next thing to try was to try and get some needle nose pliers in it but even if I could get the pliers in, I wouldn't be able to see what they were touching.
Has anyone had this issue? Also, am I not understanding the headlight removal correctly, in that it should move out more than 0.5 centimeters? (2008 model). It appears to be blocked by a piece of bumper / grill. Any suggestions? Next step is to bring it to the shop, which I'm worried they will make a much bigger deal out of it. Looking like unless I'm missing something with moving the headlight the bumper etc will have to come off, which I cannot do (I live in an apartment in Manhattan, so no good place to do that much work).
Even worse, that bulb is actually burned out, so I really need to get to it...or someone does.
Thanks
passenger side is Easy but
driver side !!!! PAIN PAIN PAIN~
Cant see and Cant grip!
My car does the exact same thing, the bulb is stuck and won't budge!!
headlight housing will not move like you said ~ only slightly like about a quter of an inch~
I guess the best bet is to remove the whole front bumper and then the light housing ~
I leaning towards visiting these guys
Looks hedious this car with BMW style
Ring lights but these guys can FIX ~
Last edited by nysid2007; 01-23-2016 at 10:19 AM.
#179
Hey I'm having a lot of trouble of changing my drivers side HID bulb and ballast for my 2048 L anyone can help me with that have any pictures, or can call 917 860 5841 I'm in NYC if anyone know info on DIY
#180
driver and passenger HID bulb and ballast replacement
Hey I'm having a lot of trouble of changing my drivers side HID bulb and ballast for my 2048 L anyone can help me with that have any pictures, or can call 917 860 5841 I'm in NYC if anyone know info on DIY