Hitch installation – my experience (Part 1)
#11
AudiWorld Super User
In the UK and possibly throughout the whole of the EU it is only legal to sell towbars which are capable of towing up to the maximum capacity stated by the manufacturer of the vehicle - we do not have different classes of towbar, so if this one was bought from over here, it must be E marked and therefore must comply with EU laws.
I think that there is a bit missing in the photo sequence - there will most likely be two strengthening bars which are inserted into the rear box sections and commonly run as far fwoward as the rear axle line or as far as practical allowing for design contraints.
It would be interesting to hear who the bar was supplied by.
I think that there is a bit missing in the photo sequence - there will most likely be two strengthening bars which are inserted into the rear box sections and commonly run as far fwoward as the rear axle line or as far as practical allowing for design contraints.
It would be interesting to hear who the bar was supplied by.
#12
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Hello, Edd W!
On the first picture you can see the two strengthening bars which will end up inside of the car.
So, you are absolutely right!
And YES - that is the EU standard and I like it
On the first picture you can see the two strengthening bars which will end up inside of the car.
So, you are absolutely right!
And YES - that is the EU standard and I like it
#13
For me the cost of Hitch (http://www.pfjones.co.uk/a8-2002-det...e-tow-bar.html) and 7 pin Audi Dedicated Electric = 432.00 Pounds and 170 pounds delivery. Total price is 602 pounds = 945 USD.
I just bought one for the UK and freighted to Australia. Much les than the dealer, who quoted me $4700 fitted.
They will price match if you can show a web site. They brought the price down to match £423.50 Westfalia detachable + 13 pin dedicated electrics + £200.00 shipping
Amount: £623.50 GBP
Currency conversion: $1,127.23 AUD = £623.50 GBP
Exchange rate: 1 AUD = 0.553126 GBP
I just bought one for the UK and freighted to Australia. Much les than the dealer, who quoted me $4700 fitted.
They will price match if you can show a web site. They brought the price down to match £423.50 Westfalia detachable + 13 pin dedicated electrics + £200.00 shipping
Amount: £623.50 GBP
Currency conversion: $1,127.23 AUD = £623.50 GBP
Exchange rate: 1 AUD = 0.553126 GBP
#14
2. Bumper cover removal. That took quite some time mainly because of unknown things and I've been scared by MP4.2+6.0 about 100 turns on each side to release the bumper. In reality it was not that difficult, just time consuming. Below you’ll find the instructions and the picture with bumper released from the sides (just pull it on the side and that’s it once all bolts have been released). Also, make sure to use the right direction when releasing mounting strip. Right side – clockwise, left side counterclocwise.
3. That's it. Then I pulled the bumper cover off and detach all electrical parts from the parking assistance. Here is what you'll see
Thanks so much for your post. I just did the mechanical part of the installation on my 4.2 TDI and was perplexed and concerned about the worm gear and the zero gap mechanism for holding the bumper, but reviewed your post and others about the 100 turns of the worm gear. I spent 4 hours trying all sorts of things until I worked out how it all worked. The whole exercise so far has taken me 10 hours. Electrics are half done.
4 points on that:
1/ I should post a picture of the worm gear, as I was unsure what it looked like.
2/ I removed the equipment in front of the "zero gap" worm gear on the LHS that attaches the bumper, so I could push the retaining mechanism down with a screwdriver to take up the slack that the worm gear released.
3/ The right hand side worm gear is obscured by the boot lid motor, so I made up a tool that fits into my electric drill and allowed me to access the hex worm gear drive. It was an 18 inch 45 cm rod, with a hex key duct taped to the end (flexible cv joint), so I could undo the worm gear in 20 seconds. Just watch the tension to ensure you don't overtighten (1Nm torque).
4/ I unplugged the reversing sensors at plug top inside the LHS panel and pulled the grommet from the panel under the light. Just make sure the bumper cover doesn't flap around, as the locating pins could damage the paintwork.
3. That's it. Then I pulled the bumper cover off and detach all electrical parts from the parking assistance. Here is what you'll see
Thanks so much for your post. I just did the mechanical part of the installation on my 4.2 TDI and was perplexed and concerned about the worm gear and the zero gap mechanism for holding the bumper, but reviewed your post and others about the 100 turns of the worm gear. I spent 4 hours trying all sorts of things until I worked out how it all worked. The whole exercise so far has taken me 10 hours. Electrics are half done.
4 points on that:
1/ I should post a picture of the worm gear, as I was unsure what it looked like.
2/ I removed the equipment in front of the "zero gap" worm gear on the LHS that attaches the bumper, so I could push the retaining mechanism down with a screwdriver to take up the slack that the worm gear released.
3/ The right hand side worm gear is obscured by the boot lid motor, so I made up a tool that fits into my electric drill and allowed me to access the hex worm gear drive. It was an 18 inch 45 cm rod, with a hex key duct taped to the end (flexible cv joint), so I could undo the worm gear in 20 seconds. Just watch the tension to ensure you don't overtighten (1Nm torque).
4/ I unplugged the reversing sensors at plug top inside the LHS panel and pulled the grommet from the panel under the light. Just make sure the bumper cover doesn't flap around, as the locating pins could damage the paintwork.
#16
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Hi guys!
I am using this thread just to keep the topic. I am gonna install a tow hitch on the 06' W12.
As from what I have read the installationprocess is not that hard and mainly a DIY-job?
Do I have to do coding through VCDS or could it just be plug & play?
I have understood that Westfalia is the best electronics. What do you guys think about this package? Seams like a good deal... and is there any reason I should get a 7-pol kit instead of 13-pol? (I am thinking about resellvalue later.)
This kit is what I am thinking about ordering: Anhängerkupplung Audi A8 4E 2002-2010 abnehmbar +13pol fzg. spezifischer E-Satz | eBay
I am using this thread just to keep the topic. I am gonna install a tow hitch on the 06' W12.
As from what I have read the installationprocess is not that hard and mainly a DIY-job?
Do I have to do coding through VCDS or could it just be plug & play?
I have understood that Westfalia is the best electronics. What do you guys think about this package? Seams like a good deal... and is there any reason I should get a 7-pol kit instead of 13-pol? (I am thinking about resellvalue later.)
This kit is what I am thinking about ordering: Anhängerkupplung Audi A8 4E 2002-2010 abnehmbar +13pol fzg. spezifischer E-Satz | eBay
#17
Hi Blankhopp. Yes it's a DIY, just so long as you follow the instructions. Buy the electrical connector that suits the electrics on your trailer. My trailer doesn't have a fog lamp or a back up light, so 7 pin was suitable. I had to buy an Australian/NZ adaptor which was 7 pin round to 7 pin flat (an Australian specific format), which is a different story.
The advertised kit mounting bracket and hitch looks similar to the Westfalia ironwork, except the arms 4 and 5 on the exploded diagram are tubular on the Westfalia and the whole mounting bracket comes welded together. The electrical kit PDF is a Westfalia so that's a good choice. It will need the codes entered via the VAGcom as per the installation instructions to make the lights work, plus have reversing sensors and the ride height adjust themselves appropriately whenever you plug in the trailer electrical connector.
"28. Match the vehicle code in the following control units via selected diagnostics by coding
“Anhängerkupplung verbaut 1D2” (towing hitch installed 1D2): etc.."
The advertised kit mounting bracket and hitch looks similar to the Westfalia ironwork, except the arms 4 and 5 on the exploded diagram are tubular on the Westfalia and the whole mounting bracket comes welded together. The electrical kit PDF is a Westfalia so that's a good choice. It will need the codes entered via the VAGcom as per the installation instructions to make the lights work, plus have reversing sensors and the ride height adjust themselves appropriately whenever you plug in the trailer electrical connector.
"28. Match the vehicle code in the following control units via selected diagnostics by coding
“Anhängerkupplung verbaut 1D2” (towing hitch installed 1D2): etc.."
#18
AudiWorld Super User
Yes, you do have to do some light coding.
And since I likewise installed in a 2006 W12, I can report that the towing module and rear seat video don't co exist well, at least without further work beyond the install instructions I used. The work around is simply plug one module in or the other, but never both. I just have left both sets of plugs near the battery and have one or the other active at any given time. In the really weird world, even though you would think they are so different, the modules and plugs each use are actually identical. It's basically a ginormous relay in a box. Different wiring for each, but same connectors and box. Search archives if you want to find out more, but just realize don't plug both in at same time. If you do, you get a strong current flow for some reason I never figured out and battery goes flat very fast if car is not running the whole time. You will get stranded with a dead battery in 30 min. or less if you plug both in and park anywhere. Happened on my driveway fortunately.
Likewise find my old posts where I eventually concluded you can't use Westfalia electronics with a fully LED trailer light set up. It needs more resistance. LEDs now pretty common on trailers. I solved by switching my main trailer rear light units back to incandescent. You could wire in some resistors I guess, but trailer lights are cheap and fast.
And since I likewise installed in a 2006 W12, I can report that the towing module and rear seat video don't co exist well, at least without further work beyond the install instructions I used. The work around is simply plug one module in or the other, but never both. I just have left both sets of plugs near the battery and have one or the other active at any given time. In the really weird world, even though you would think they are so different, the modules and plugs each use are actually identical. It's basically a ginormous relay in a box. Different wiring for each, but same connectors and box. Search archives if you want to find out more, but just realize don't plug both in at same time. If you do, you get a strong current flow for some reason I never figured out and battery goes flat very fast if car is not running the whole time. You will get stranded with a dead battery in 30 min. or less if you plug both in and park anywhere. Happened on my driveway fortunately.
Likewise find my old posts where I eventually concluded you can't use Westfalia electronics with a fully LED trailer light set up. It needs more resistance. LEDs now pretty common on trailers. I solved by switching my main trailer rear light units back to incandescent. You could wire in some resistors I guess, but trailer lights are cheap and fast.
Last edited by MP4.2+6.0; 05-03-2016 at 08:13 AM.
#19
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Hi
At the beginning, I apologize for spelling mistakes, I have an Audi A8L D3 W12 2008, there is little knowledge about the W12 on the internet, and it's a great car, if you care, I use your knowledge and thank you for sharing with it, but yesterday I encountered a problem with mounting the trailer hitch, I can't tighten the bolts in the middle of the Trunk, it looks like the hole is not right through the side member. Trailer hitch original Westfalia. Thank you for the info.
Greetings orkaskawina
At the beginning, I apologize for spelling mistakes, I have an Audi A8L D3 W12 2008, there is little knowledge about the W12 on the internet, and it's a great car, if you care, I use your knowledge and thank you for sharing with it, but yesterday I encountered a problem with mounting the trailer hitch, I can't tighten the bolts in the middle of the Trunk, it looks like the hole is not right through the side member. Trailer hitch original Westfalia. Thank you for the info.
Greetings orkaskawina
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