Mike141

Well, this was a major PITA!!! Just like I have read about. Anyway few questions I have here. First where does that washer go that came with the oil filter? I read that it was for the drain on the oil filter housing, but I could not find a drain plug, I found a 5mm allen headbolt under the oil filter housing that just turned, but did not come off. Also, is there any logical reason why Audi put the oil filter in the location they did? I dont think it could be in a tougher place to access. I guess it's good that I wont have to do this until another 7500 miles or so. Thanks!

Mister Bally

The small washer that comes with Mann filter elements not purchased at the dealer goes with that plug with the 5MM allen head. Don't feel bad, I didn't know it was there for the first few oil changes I did. So, an ounce or two of old oil stayed in the filter housing, big whoop. When you buy the filter from the dealer (at regular club prices), you get to buy the washer ala carte! Plu the crush ring for the oil pan too as the large washer they supply is for ???

Don't know why yours didn't come off though. I think the interval in North America is 10,000 miles which comes aroundt too soon for me. As for the filter location- I couldn't find the cannister for my first change before I bought the manual. Just think *Superior German engineering*!!

Mike_k

It's a lot easier your 2nd time around. I think Audi recommends you just remove the top half of the air filter housing but I find that removing the entire housing and disconnecting it from the air pump is easier.

Make sure that you re-tightened that 5mm allen screw as it's the drain for the filter housing. You can also use the pump out of a windex bottle or something similar to ciphon the oil out of there as the drain can be a little messy.

ccmnova

Is there a DIY for oil change on the A4 B7 with 2.0T FSI engine - I searched but no luck.

Mike141

The damn 5pm bolt will not tighten and will not come off, I think it's stripped! Car is going to dealer on Fri I'll guess I'll have them look at that. How much you think that will be to fix? They'll probably make me get a whole new housing, you think?

Mister Bally

Pray that the new housing can be replaced without removing the engine. On the 12 cylinder model, no engine removal necessary; but it looks like several hours of labor $$$$

I'd consider a dab of JB weld or silastic/RTV around the socket head and leave it at that.

Mike141

Ok but I can't get the bolt out, can I just put that stuff around it or does it have to be removed? (the bolt). Also will JB weld or rtv withstand the heat? If so I'll just do that myself. Let me know thanks!

Mister Bally

No need to remove the plug. If there is no leak with the motor running, Consider the RTV since it easily peels away. The JB Weld is very heat resistant. For either, the surface has to be squeaky clean. After a good wipedown with a clean rag, rub with alcohol. Once it boils off (dries), put on the sealer of your choice. The JB Weld will be difficult to remove but can be chipped away.

I think most of us here find it difficult to believe that your small drain plug is stripped. But, you're there and we aren't. It's almost like you are using a smaller allen head driver and the tool is turning, not the plug. By the way, none of us are discounting your technical or mechanical ability. As long as you've seen the plug rotating; you might as well try sealing it to be safe.

Mike141

Exactly the bolt turns but does not tighten or loosen; I'm under the car and can see it turn. No leak with motor off, but when I run it, it leaks a little. I'll see what dealer tells me then I'll maybe try the rtv. A new housing is $675! Can't it just be tapped and re-threaded?

Mister Bally

Good point, there is sufficient area in the casting to go one size larger with a drill and retap. You don't have to go Metric either. However, the new plug should be aluminum/cast aluminum since that's what the housing is. Well, maybe the plug is steel and ther's a magnet to grab particles. I don'r recall ever seeing any on the plug though. The nice thing is that with the oil filter out, and a helper, you can see the top of the plug in the oil filter cylindrical cavity. Get a long piece of steel (ex: socket extension and push from the top while the other person rotates the plug counterclockwise. Maybe you will be lucky and the plug is what's stripped. Don't know how much the plug costs but the volume control **** on the MMI which is about the same size is like sixty bucks!