My engine oil analysis
#11
Ordered my cooler from audiusaparts and their diagram didn't show any gaskets. Lucky for me those guys are pretty good, they double checked the VIN I provided and informed me of the two gaskets before shipping out!
#12
that’s good. I’m starting the replacement and have the coolant drained out and got the bolts for the alternator loose, but not out yet. Not sure if there’s enough room to wiggle them out without pulling off the nose. I don’t want to have to mess with all that, but might have to. Fun times. I can’t find info on the alternator removal anywhere. Even my alldata doesn’t give the procedure.
#13
AudiWorld Member
Alternator will come out without removing nose. Just need to get a tensioner rotated to remove belt. The square hole for my tensioner was stripped so I had to cut belt and replace assembly, but I believe you need to remove the tensioner anyway as part of the alternator removal. Hose clamps for coolant to alternator are somewhat of a pain but shouldn't be too bad with some long nosed pliers. I don't recall there being much of an issue other than my specific issue with my tensioner. It is a little tight between the radiator fans and the front of the tensioner.
Send you a PM with screenshots of instructions for removal.
Send you a PM with screenshots of instructions for removal.
#14
AudiWorld Senior Member
Subscribing for updates. My coolant reservoir also goes to empty fairly quickly. I did not think about the trans oil cooler, will check that. Same situation where I do not have a milkshake in my oil either. No coolant leaks and pressure test does not show a leak either...
Also FYI, i did just order test strips to check for antifreeze in trans oil. Spoke with accustrip, they confirmed it will work in any type of oil and/or fluid. I got 2 strips for $10, will use one in trans and one in oil.
I wonder at what percentage does oil turn into milkshake? Is 4% too litttle?
EDIT: just thought of this, you can actually test your oil cooler to see if it is bad. Just take it off the vehicle, and hook up two hoses to the oil side, plug one end, and add a compressed air fitting to the other, pump it up to say 30 psi (cold start oil pressure is probably 50+) and if you hear any air escaping out the coolant ports, the cooler is bad.
Also FYI, i did just order test strips to check for antifreeze in trans oil. Spoke with accustrip, they confirmed it will work in any type of oil and/or fluid. I got 2 strips for $10, will use one in trans and one in oil.
I wonder at what percentage does oil turn into milkshake? Is 4% too litttle?
EDIT: just thought of this, you can actually test your oil cooler to see if it is bad. Just take it off the vehicle, and hook up two hoses to the oil side, plug one end, and add a compressed air fitting to the other, pump it up to say 30 psi (cold start oil pressure is probably 50+) and if you hear any air escaping out the coolant ports, the cooler is bad.
Last edited by Greg5OH; 04-02-2018 at 08:48 AM.
#15
Alternator will come out without removing nose. Just need to get a tensioner rotated to remove belt. The square hole for my tensioner was stripped so I had to cut belt and replace assembly, but I believe you need to remove the tensioner anyway as part of the alternator removal. Hose clamps for coolant to alternator are somewhat of a pain but shouldn't be too bad with some long nosed pliers. I don't recall there being much of an issue other than my specific issue with my tensioner. It is a little tight between the radiator fans and the front of the tensioner.
Send you a PM with screenshots of instructions for removal.
Send you a PM with screenshots of instructions for removal.
#16
Subscribing for updates. My coolant reservoir also goes to empty fairly quickly. I did not think about the trans oil cooler, will check that. Same situation where I do not have a milkshake in my oil either. No coolant leaks and pressure test does not show a leak either...
Also FYI, i did just order test strips to check for antifreeze in trans oil. Spoke with accustrip, they confirmed it will work in any type of oil and/or fluid. I got 2 strips for $10, will use one in trans and one in oil.
I wonder at what percentage does oil turn into milkshake? Is 4% too litttle?
EDIT: just thought of this, you can actually test your oil cooler to see if it is bad. Just take it off the vehicle, and hook up two hoses to the oil side, plug one end, and add a compressed air fitting to the other, pump it up to say 30 psi (cold start oil pressure is probably 50+) and if you hear any air escaping out the coolant ports, the cooler is bad.
Also FYI, i did just order test strips to check for antifreeze in trans oil. Spoke with accustrip, they confirmed it will work in any type of oil and/or fluid. I got 2 strips for $10, will use one in trans and one in oil.
I wonder at what percentage does oil turn into milkshake? Is 4% too litttle?
EDIT: just thought of this, you can actually test your oil cooler to see if it is bad. Just take it off the vehicle, and hook up two hoses to the oil side, plug one end, and add a compressed air fitting to the other, pump it up to say 30 psi (cold start oil pressure is probably 50+) and if you hear any air escaping out the coolant ports, the cooler is bad.
#18
I was prepared to change my oil cooler yesterday but quickly realized I was sent the wrong part. The oil cooler I received was a quite a bit shorter, with different connections. I know the manual says to remove the alternator, but my cooler seems removable without doing so, from what I recall seeing.
#19
I was prepared to change my oil cooler yesterday but quickly realized I was sent the wrong part. The oil cooler I received was a quite a bit shorter, with different connections. I know the manual says to remove the alternator, but my cooler seems removable without doing so, from what I recall seeing.
The whole nose, radiator, and fans had to come off to get to mine. Very painful, but easier once all the stuff was off up front. I will add that there is a way to get the alternator out once you break the sleeves loose by tapping the head of the mounting bolts to push them back a bit. So if you can accomplish that without pulling all the other gear, then you’re doing alright. But I couldn’t get enough of a whack on the bolts to make it all work out without pulling everything. Then I had to loosen the air pump as well to make enough room to slide out the alternator. After that it was simple. But it’s all back and seems to be fine now. I’ll try and test the old cooler to see if it leaks.
#20
AudiWorld Senior Member
Any more updates?
pulled my oilpan off and hd coolant stuck to the bottom of it and various conponents inside..
did a very crude pressure test on the cooler and seemed ok, no hissing or loss of pressure into the crankcase.
do you have any loss of coolant with the new cooler and did you test the old one?
pulled my oilpan off and hd coolant stuck to the bottom of it and various conponents inside..
did a very crude pressure test on the cooler and seemed ok, no hissing or loss of pressure into the crankcase.
do you have any loss of coolant with the new cooler and did you test the old one?