NEED INSIGHT | ABS, ESP, CEL| Lateral Acceleration Sensor, Camshaft Position Sensor
08-14-2018, 10:25 AM
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NEED INSIGHT | ABS, ESP, CEL| Lateral Acceleration Sensor, Camshaft Position Sensor
Hey guys, I've been having this issue where the ABS, ESP and CEL Are triggered after some daily driving.
Turning the car off and on will get rid of the ABS and ESP lights.
I've been having this before my rotors became shot but I finally got around to scanning the car.
Under the engine I'm getting DTC codes such as:
Camshaft Position Sensor (G40) / Engine Speed Sensor (G28)
P1340 - 001 - Incorrect Correlation - Intermittent.
Starter Will Not Turn
P3054 - 001 - Jammed or Electric Malfunction - Intermittent.
Under the ABS section I got the DTC for Lateral Acceleration Sensor
insufficient voltage (excuse this part because I forgot to record it before erasing it)
I need some insight as to what this might be. Personally I think it's either the battery regulator, or the fact that this car doesn't have a coded battery in it. What I mean by that is that the first owner was very meticulous and took it to the dealer for any service requirement; the second owner... not so much.
Ever since I got this car, it has had an unapproved uncoded battery in it. The original battery regulator was out of order so I had to get a used one when I was overseas. The used one has lasted me some time but ever since I jump started the car using the terminals it's been acting funny.
For now, the battery regulator does not have any DTC and it's working fine. So I'm thinking I need to get a battery that's approved and can be coded, or code some other battery into it to "fool" the system for the time being.
Any insight as to what it might be? The sensors are fine, it seems to be an electrical issue because quite a few other components are not getting enough juice. Only recently has this become a daily thing. Its even telling me I have a burnt driver side rear bulb but all the lights are working fine.
Thanks in advance guys
Turning the car off and on will get rid of the ABS and ESP lights.
I've been having this before my rotors became shot but I finally got around to scanning the car.
Under the engine I'm getting DTC codes such as:
Camshaft Position Sensor (G40) / Engine Speed Sensor (G28)
P1340 - 001 - Incorrect Correlation - Intermittent.
Starter Will Not Turn
P3054 - 001 - Jammed or Electric Malfunction - Intermittent.
Under the ABS section I got the DTC for Lateral Acceleration Sensor
insufficient voltage (excuse this part because I forgot to record it before erasing it)
I need some insight as to what this might be. Personally I think it's either the battery regulator, or the fact that this car doesn't have a coded battery in it. What I mean by that is that the first owner was very meticulous and took it to the dealer for any service requirement; the second owner... not so much.
Ever since I got this car, it has had an unapproved uncoded battery in it. The original battery regulator was out of order so I had to get a used one when I was overseas. The used one has lasted me some time but ever since I jump started the car using the terminals it's been acting funny.
For now, the battery regulator does not have any DTC and it's working fine. So I'm thinking I need to get a battery that's approved and can be coded, or code some other battery into it to "fool" the system for the time being.
Any insight as to what it might be? The sensors are fine, it seems to be an electrical issue because quite a few other components are not getting enough juice. Only recently has this become a daily thing. Its even telling me I have a burnt driver side rear bulb but all the lights are working fine.
Thanks in advance guys
Last edited by Automotive_Buff; 08-14-2018 at 03:39 PM.
08-14-2018, 11:18 AM
#2
AudiWorld Wiseguy
I’d suggest your first stop is a bad battery or a blown EPC module. You already said you suspect it’s dodgy after incorrectly jump starting the car. This is known to blow them, and these things tend not to be able to fix themselves.
Mismatched cam/crank position errors could be a bad sensor, crank or cam, or worst case are a precursor to a timing gear failure.
Mismatched cam/crank position errors could be a bad sensor, crank or cam, or worst case are a precursor to a timing gear failure.
08-15-2018, 12:46 PM
#3
AudiWorld Member
yep, check timing, very easy job. but you can clear th cods and see what comes back also, then youll have a clearer view. but if you did this already, then check timing, if its good then move on to the sensors
08-15-2018, 12:51 PM
#4
AudiWorld Super User
As always, please post (or include in avatar or auto signature) year and motor in car. You have geographic location, so I'm guessing 4.2 and gas. But not sure if port or FSI injection, which goes by year. Answer matters for elements of this post/question.
08-15-2018, 01:19 PM
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Originally Posted by dvs_dave
I’d suggest your first stop is a bad battery or a blown EPC module. You already said you suspect it’s dodgy after incorrectly jump starting the car. This is known to blow them, and these things tend not to be able to fix themselves.
Mismatched cam/crank position errors could be a bad sensor, crank or cam, or worst case are a precursor to a timing gear failure.
Mismatched cam/crank position errors could be a bad sensor, crank or cam, or worst case are a precursor to a timing gear failure.
Originally Posted by chudlin
yep, check timing, very easy job. but you can clear th cods and see what comes back also, then youll have a clearer view. but if you did this already, then check timing, if its good then move on to the sensors
How would I go about checking the timing gear?
Originally Posted by MP4.2+6.0
As always, please post (or include in avatar or auto signature) year and motor in car. You have geographic location, so I'm guessing 4.2 and gas. But not sure if port or FSI injection, which goes by year. Answer matters for elements of this post/question.
EDIT - VCDS DTCs
Under Engine:
Camshaft Position Sensor (G40) / Engine Speed Sensor (G28)
P1340 - 001 - Incorrect Correlation - Intermittent.
Starter Will Not Turn
P3054 - 001 - Jammed or Electric Malfunction - Intermittent.
P1340 - 001 - Incorrect Correlation - Intermittent.
Starter Will Not Turn
P3054 - 001 - Jammed or Electric Malfunction - Intermittent.
So I'm definitely leaning towards the voltage regulator.
Address 03: ABS Brakes Labels: 4E0-910-517.lbl
Control Module Part Number: 4E0 910 517 A HW: 4E0 614 517 E
Component and/or Version: ESP 5.7 allrad H29 0420
Software Coding: 0007597
3 Faults Found:
01435 - Brake Pressure Sensor 1 (G201)
000 - - - Intermittent
01423 - Lateral Acceleration Sensor (G200)
012 - Electrical Fault in Circuit - Intermittent
00532 - Supply Voltage B+
002 - Lower Limit Exceeded - Intermittent
----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Address 53: Parking Brake Labels: 4E0-910-801.clb
Control Module Part Number: 4E0 910 801 A HW: 4E0 907 801
Component and/or Version: EPB AV1C1010 H01 1010
Software Coding: 0000532
1 Fault Found:
01316 - ABS Control Module
013 - Check DTC Memory - Intermittent
Freeze Frame:
Fault Status: 00101101
Fault Priority: 3
Fault Frequency: 16
Reset counter: 228
Mileage: 274816 km
Time Indication: 0
Date: 2018.08.13
Time: 16:53:36
Freeze Frame:
Voltage: 12.84 V
Count: 236
Last edited by Automotive_Buff; 08-15-2018 at 01:51 PM.
08-15-2018, 10:23 PM
#6
AudiWorld Super User
Did you jump start the car by putting the negative to the battery directly, or to the big hex post? (hex post is what you are supposed to do). Also important for charging so the power management system doesn't get faked out.
On battery coding, IF battery is good and correct capacity rating, you can basically lie to the system that you have a new battery. Just change coding it now has by moving last digit of battery id number up by 1. Presto, system assumes new battery. How you can use your preferred brand/type, as long as capacity specs are correct.
Cam sensor: given it is the older port motor, now I am less convinced that is actual issue. Never say never, but I think those don't commonly fail on the pre FSI motor. Crank sensor could also be the issue (which is referenced in the code), since the cam sensors is comparing themselves to the crank position. Crank sensors do fail on the 4.2, often leaving owners with a temporary no start situation, sometimes with no codes.
After getting to bottom of battery possible issues, if you continue to have a variety of electrical codes, at least some of which are ABS, maybe check the wiring harness in the first few feet after/below the ABS unit. Look for evidence of deteriorated individual conductor insulation--which may be hidden by the taping on the wire bundle. Known D3 issue on some. Search will turn up prior posts, some with dissection.
On battery coding, IF battery is good and correct capacity rating, you can basically lie to the system that you have a new battery. Just change coding it now has by moving last digit of battery id number up by 1. Presto, system assumes new battery. How you can use your preferred brand/type, as long as capacity specs are correct.
Cam sensor: given it is the older port motor, now I am less convinced that is actual issue. Never say never, but I think those don't commonly fail on the pre FSI motor. Crank sensor could also be the issue (which is referenced in the code), since the cam sensors is comparing themselves to the crank position. Crank sensors do fail on the 4.2, often leaving owners with a temporary no start situation, sometimes with no codes.
After getting to bottom of battery possible issues, if you continue to have a variety of electrical codes, at least some of which are ABS, maybe check the wiring harness in the first few feet after/below the ABS unit. Look for evidence of deteriorated individual conductor insulation--which may be hidden by the taping on the wire bundle. Known D3 issue on some. Search will turn up prior posts, some with dissection.
08-16-2018, 12:42 AM
#7
AudiWorld Member
Cam sensor: given it is the older port motor, now I am less convinced that is actual issue. Never say never, but I think those don't commonly fail on the pre FSI motor. Crank sensor could also be the issue (which is referenced in the code), since the cam sensors is comparing themselves to the crank position. Crank sensors do fail on the 4.2, often leaving owners with a temporary no start situation, sometimes with no codes.
the timing belt is easy to check but in your case i would advise checking it properly.
you can do it by:
1. removing the inlet pipe
2. remove injector rail
3. remove coilpacks and wiring
4. remove only top 2 cam wheel covers and not the 3rd middle cover
5. remove both rocker covers
6. using 24mm double hex spanner, turn crank to the timing mark on the lower 3rd middle cam belt cover (there is a small line that looks like this " | " on the pulley behind the aux belt that points to a cut out that looks like a > facing toward the engine about 45degrees to the right in the cover)
7. check the timing marks on the cams:
-- the left side (facing the engine) the timing marks are on the cam infront of the chain sprocket where the chain is at the back. you should look on the front of the chain sprocket on both cams (far end). you will see two notches (one for each cam) they will align with an arrow on the baring caps
-- the right side (facing the engine) the timing marks are on the cam where the chain is at the front. you will see the two notches (one for each cam) on the back of the sprocket behind the chain which should align with the arrows on the baring caps
the simple way is to align the crank as stated in step 6 and see if the lobes on each cam point to each other. on the lobs there is a small hole and a big hole. the big holes of each wheel should point inwards and the smaller one outwards and look more or less horizontal with each other.
if you are ging to do this, please make sure you read this and read it again. timing a v8 is a precision job. this slightest movement in timing will throw an error but not necessarily damage the engine
Last edited by chudlin; 08-16-2018 at 12:49 AM.
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08-16-2018, 06:03 AM
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Originally Posted by MP4.2+6.0
Did you jump start the car by putting the negative to the battery directly, or to the big hex post? (hex post is what you are supposed to do). Also important for charging so the power management system doesn't get faked out.
On battery coding, IF battery is good and correct capacity rating, you can basically lie to the system that you have a new battery. Just change coding it now has by moving last digit of battery id number up by 1. Presto, system assumes new battery. How you can use your preferred brand/type, as long as capacity specs are correct.
Cam sensor: given it is the older port motor, now I am less convinced that is actual issue. Never say never, but I think those don't commonly fail on the pre FSI motor. Crank sensor could also be the issue (which is referenced in the code), since the cam sensors is comparing themselves to the crank position. Crank sensors do fail on the 4.2, often leaving owners with a temporary no start situation, sometimes with no codes.
After getting to bottom of battery possible issues, if you continue to have a variety of electrical codes, at least some of which are ABS, maybe check the wiring harness in the first few feet after/below the ABS unit. Look for evidence of deteriorated individual conductor insulation--which may be hidden by the taping on the wire bundle. Known D3 issue on some. Search will turn up prior posts, some with dissection.
On battery coding, IF battery is good and correct capacity rating, you can basically lie to the system that you have a new battery. Just change coding it now has by moving last digit of battery id number up by 1. Presto, system assumes new battery. How you can use your preferred brand/type, as long as capacity specs are correct.
Cam sensor: given it is the older port motor, now I am less convinced that is actual issue. Never say never, but I think those don't commonly fail on the pre FSI motor. Crank sensor could also be the issue (which is referenced in the code), since the cam sensors is comparing themselves to the crank position. Crank sensors do fail on the 4.2, often leaving owners with a temporary no start situation, sometimes with no codes.
After getting to bottom of battery possible issues, if you continue to have a variety of electrical codes, at least some of which are ABS, maybe check the wiring harness in the first few feet after/below the ABS unit. Look for evidence of deteriorated individual conductor insulation--which may be hidden by the taping on the wire bundle. Known D3 issue on some. Search will turn up prior posts, some with dissection.
As for the cam and crank sensors I don't believe that would be the issue. I'm getting a lot of Supply Voltage B+ DTCs on multiple components.
Regarding the ABS harness, I've had coolant leak directly to the exposed harness, flooding my connector and the wires. The wires were frail, whatever was corroded was cut off, rewired, wrapped up. New ABS module was installed, coded and everything has been fine up until about a week ago.
Originally Posted by chudlin
the timing belt is easy to check but in your case i would advise checking it properly.
you can do it by:
1. removing the inlet pipe
2. remove injector rail
3. remove coilpacks and wiring
4. remove only top 2 cam wheel covers and not the 3rd middle cover
5. remove both rocker covers
6. using 24mm double hex spanner, turn crank to the timing mark on the lower 3rd middle cam belt cover (there is a small line that looks like this " | " on the pulley behind the aux belt that points to a cut out that looks like a > facing toward the engine about 45degrees to the right in the cover)
7. check the timing marks on the cams:
-- the left side (facing the engine) the timing marks are on the cam infront of the chain sprocket where the chain is at the back. you should look on the front of the chain sprocket on both cams (far end). you will see two notches (one for each cam) they will align with an arrow on the baring caps
-- the right side (facing the engine) the timing marks are on the cam where the chain is at the front. you will see the two notches (one for each cam) on the back of the sprocket behind the chain which should align with the arrows on the baring caps
the simple way is to align the crank as stated in step 6 and see if the lobes on each cam point to each other. on the lobs there is a small hole and a big hole. the big holes of each wheel should point inwards and the smaller one outwards and look more or less horizontal with each other.
if you are ging to do this, please make sure you read this and read it again. timing a v8 is a precision job. this slightest movement in timing will throw an error but not necessarily damage the engine
you can do it by:
1. removing the inlet pipe
2. remove injector rail
3. remove coilpacks and wiring
4. remove only top 2 cam wheel covers and not the 3rd middle cover
5. remove both rocker covers
6. using 24mm double hex spanner, turn crank to the timing mark on the lower 3rd middle cam belt cover (there is a small line that looks like this " | " on the pulley behind the aux belt that points to a cut out that looks like a > facing toward the engine about 45degrees to the right in the cover)
7. check the timing marks on the cams:
-- the left side (facing the engine) the timing marks are on the cam infront of the chain sprocket where the chain is at the back. you should look on the front of the chain sprocket on both cams (far end). you will see two notches (one for each cam) they will align with an arrow on the baring caps
-- the right side (facing the engine) the timing marks are on the cam where the chain is at the front. you will see the two notches (one for each cam) on the back of the sprocket behind the chain which should align with the arrows on the baring caps
the simple way is to align the crank as stated in step 6 and see if the lobes on each cam point to each other. on the lobs there is a small hole and a big hole. the big holes of each wheel should point inwards and the smaller one outwards and look more or less horizontal with each other.
if you are ging to do this, please make sure you read this and read it again. timing a v8 is a precision job. this slightest movement in timing will throw an error but not necessarily damage the engine
Last edited by Automotive_Buff; 08-16-2018 at 06:37 AM.