New Member and Fan/Trunk Question
09-04-2015, 04:25 PM
#11
AudiWorld Member
Yes, service the AC refigerant first, and preferably have the shop do a 15min vacum test on the system, to see it's 100% leak free!
It's normal that the R134 A/C refrigerant is "empty" in a 6-10year old car. My Volvo S90 had 10 years on the clock when it had 165g of 900g left. My friend's 2006 Mazda6 had 125g left of 600g a few weeks ago, 9 years on the clock.
The fans in theese cars have ONE common problem, the connectors that are in the lower passenger side corner of the radiator. You can see it, if you take off the splashguar under the car. Second connector for second fan in upper left corner. The contacts get corroded with age, and develop problems, even if the connector housings are waterproof. If the fan goes into "full speed all the time" it has probably lost it's connection to the LIN databus (the EngineControlUnit command the fan via this bus), or second problem, more common is that there's corrosion in the + or - or both poles.
3 or 4 wires go to each fan, red+ from passenger kickpanel in front of front pasenger door, there's a fuse for both fans. brown - from a grounding bolt in the front (don't remember exact where, but somewhere behind the front fender, and a small databus cable or 2 of them (not 100% sure if there were 1 or 2 databus cables). But do a VCDS checkup first of engine control unit fault codes, to determine if there's a problem with the fans.
Another option is that you just have the A/C set on defogging for windshield. It will blow cold air if requested, but to keep cabin temp at the set temp, it will blow hot air, so the cabin won't get too cold. I've seen this "fault" on a couple A/C cars. Just use the AUTO function, it WILL work 100% sure, IF everything is in order.
Next option is that there's a glitch in the hot/cold air flap motor deep behind the dashboard.
Then next is that your heating valve block on passenger side under the windshield is gone. Normal "problem" on these. Had probably this on my ex 2006 W12. Wouldn't give cold air in over 20ēc even on the highway, because the heat circulation to the cabin heat exchangers was on all the time. And would not give proper heat in the winter, because it couldn't open the heating valves fully.
It's normal that the R134 A/C refrigerant is "empty" in a 6-10year old car. My Volvo S90 had 10 years on the clock when it had 165g of 900g left. My friend's 2006 Mazda6 had 125g left of 600g a few weeks ago, 9 years on the clock.
The fans in theese cars have ONE common problem, the connectors that are in the lower passenger side corner of the radiator. You can see it, if you take off the splashguar under the car. Second connector for second fan in upper left corner. The contacts get corroded with age, and develop problems, even if the connector housings are waterproof. If the fan goes into "full speed all the time" it has probably lost it's connection to the LIN databus (the EngineControlUnit command the fan via this bus), or second problem, more common is that there's corrosion in the + or - or both poles.
3 or 4 wires go to each fan, red+ from passenger kickpanel in front of front pasenger door, there's a fuse for both fans. brown - from a grounding bolt in the front (don't remember exact where, but somewhere behind the front fender, and a small databus cable or 2 of them (not 100% sure if there were 1 or 2 databus cables). But do a VCDS checkup first of engine control unit fault codes, to determine if there's a problem with the fans.
Another option is that you just have the A/C set on defogging for windshield. It will blow cold air if requested, but to keep cabin temp at the set temp, it will blow hot air, so the cabin won't get too cold. I've seen this "fault" on a couple A/C cars. Just use the AUTO function, it WILL work 100% sure, IF everything is in order.
Next option is that there's a glitch in the hot/cold air flap motor deep behind the dashboard.
Then next is that your heating valve block on passenger side under the windshield is gone. Normal "problem" on these. Had probably this on my ex 2006 W12. Wouldn't give cold air in over 20ēc even on the highway, because the heat circulation to the cabin heat exchangers was on all the time. And would not give proper heat in the winter, because it couldn't open the heating valves fully.
09-05-2015, 07:08 AM
#12
AudiWorld Super User
Check my signature to see if you want to fix the trunk
with the springs. Don't waste money on new springs, I bought 2 new ones and they still sit in my garage (before I studied the mechanics of the trunk). So, the new and improved metal case H unit still fails and mine is still working all these years with the springs. It's not "this, that", it's the design and battery power.
Cheers,
Louis
Cheers,
Louis
09-08-2015, 05:46 AM
#13
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Join Date: Aug 2015
Location: Bowie, Maryland
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FWIW, my experience is the fan NEVER goes to jet engine mode unless 1. there is a cooling system fault code and it had kicked into its safe backup mode (like a bad coolant temp. sensor), 2. it is super hot (endless running in stop and go traffic) or you force it by extreme running/revving for a long time (like 20 minutes +), 3. there is something wrong with the variable speed fan set up. NO setting of the A/C temp should do it by itself absent a hot motor. Do you physically see and hear a fan running softly at idle after cold start w/ AC on? If not, it is gone. If normal, then the refrigerant--or as Misha called it, the gas. Freon was the old stuff, though still the vernacular. My 2006 needed a charge a couple summers ago (it was down to less than half), as did another couple of S8s I recall that were at least 2007's. The system holds very little refrigerant due to enviro regs (only about 600g, way down from old freon days), so modest losses can leave it way down % wise.
I do hear the fan running softly at idle after cold start with the AC on. However, could low refrigerant cause an electrical malfunction code? (P0481 Coolant Fan Control Circuit 2: Electrical Malfunction)
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