Original fuel filter
08-02-2017, 09:24 AM
#1
AudiWorld Member
Thread Starter
Original fuel filter
On my 2006 audi a8 i found i had a problem with fuel delivery while driving. It seemed a bit weak at times. Next one day my car didnt crank. It sounded as if there was no fuel. I came back an hour later and it started right up. The next day i went into the eye doctor and came out only to notice it didnt crank again. It started hours later after towing. I ordered a fuel filter. But it has 2 in and 1 out on my filter. The one autozone stocks is 1 in 1 out. I went ahead and did pumps at 300 a piece with 1.5 hours of novice labor for both. It still doesnt start. Now it sounds like gas is being sent but not enough maybe. Before it sounded like 0 gas. Now it sputters but doesnt start. I removed the filter and now looking for one. Im glad i done the pumps but could it been the filter. It says its from april 2004. My car is an 06 and its 2017 now. It sat for a year before i owned it. Any insight??
Last edited by Orlando Smith; 08-02-2017 at 09:29 AM.
08-02-2017, 11:48 AM
#2
Your A8 uses a fuel filter with an integrated fuel pressure regulator (FPR) which explains the three orifices compared to the two on the conventional fuel filter stocked by Autozone. A possible cause of your issues could involve the FPR not regulating the fuel pressure at the proper pressure (4 bar) due to excessive debris in the fuel filter. Use the original part number (4F0 201 511) to get the correct part. Mahle KL 570 (4 bar) or Mann WK720/3 (4 bar) should work.
08-02-2017, 12:12 PM
#3
AudiWorld Super User
Yes, change fuel filter--every 75 or 100K perhaps in general. May help, but even if not just good maintenance and it can help fuel pumps live longer, in this case your new ones.
Meantime, your issue could be ignition rather than fuel. In old days you would always pull a plug wire and see if it sparks as an early diagnostic. Not so easy these days. But another way to test when it no starts is buy a can of Ether ("starting spray"). When it doesn't start, spray into intake tube (before air box) as best you can. Crank immediately. If it does not fire for at least a few seconds, it is probably ignition. Ether will basically get some ignition with any spark present almost no matter how flooded or lean it is. If it does fire, then back to looking at fuel system.
As I mentioned in other post, could be crank position sensor. Search on it. Symptoms overlap fuel pumps a lot, and they get confused. Lots of owners have had experiences where sometimes it starts, sometimes it doesn't, and it may be temperature dependent--like leave car be a few hours and then it starts again. Also why I said scan--in case it shows. Crank sensor shows for some owners, but does NOT show for others. One of the few parts (along with fuel pumps) where you may not get anything definitive with VCDS but the part is still bad.
Meantime, your issue could be ignition rather than fuel. In old days you would always pull a plug wire and see if it sparks as an early diagnostic. Not so easy these days. But another way to test when it no starts is buy a can of Ether ("starting spray"). When it doesn't start, spray into intake tube (before air box) as best you can. Crank immediately. If it does not fire for at least a few seconds, it is probably ignition. Ether will basically get some ignition with any spark present almost no matter how flooded or lean it is. If it does fire, then back to looking at fuel system.
As I mentioned in other post, could be crank position sensor. Search on it. Symptoms overlap fuel pumps a lot, and they get confused. Lots of owners have had experiences where sometimes it starts, sometimes it doesn't, and it may be temperature dependent--like leave car be a few hours and then it starts again. Also why I said scan--in case it shows. Crank sensor shows for some owners, but does NOT show for others. One of the few parts (along with fuel pumps) where you may not get anything definitive with VCDS but the part is still bad.
Last edited by MP4.2+6.0; 08-02-2017 at 12:15 PM.
08-02-2017, 12:33 PM
#4
AudiWorld Member
Thread Starter
Yes, change fuel filter--every 75 or 100K perhaps in general. May help, but even if not just good maintenance and it can help fuel pumps live longer, in this case your new ones.
Meantime, your issue could be ignition rather than fuel. In old days you would always pull a plug wire and see if it sparks as an early diagnostic. Not so easy these days. But another way to test when it no starts is buy a can of Ether ("starting spray"). When it doesn't start, spray into intake tube (before air box) as best you can. Crank immediately. If it does not fire for at least a few seconds, it is probably ignition. Ether will basically get some ignition with any spark present almost no matter how flooded or lean it is. If it does fire, then back to looking at fuel system.
As I mentioned in other post, could be crank position sensor. Search on it. Symptoms overlap fuel pumps a lot, and they get confused. Lots of owners have had experiences where sometimes it starts, sometimes it doesn't, and it may be temperature dependent--like leave car be a few hours and then it starts again. Also why I said scan--in case it shows. Crank sensor shows for some owners, but does NOT show for others. One of the few parts (along with fuel pumps) where you may not get anything definitive with VCDS but the part is still bad.
Meantime, your issue could be ignition rather than fuel. In old days you would always pull a plug wire and see if it sparks as an early diagnostic. Not so easy these days. But another way to test when it no starts is buy a can of Ether ("starting spray"). When it doesn't start, spray into intake tube (before air box) as best you can. Crank immediately. If it does not fire for at least a few seconds, it is probably ignition. Ether will basically get some ignition with any spark present almost no matter how flooded or lean it is. If it does fire, then back to looking at fuel system.
As I mentioned in other post, could be crank position sensor. Search on it. Symptoms overlap fuel pumps a lot, and they get confused. Lots of owners have had experiences where sometimes it starts, sometimes it doesn't, and it may be temperature dependent--like leave car be a few hours and then it starts again. Also why I said scan--in case it shows. Crank sensor shows for some owners, but does NOT show for others. One of the few parts (along with fuel pumps) where you may not get anything definitive with VCDS but the part is still bad.
08-06-2017, 10:10 AM
#7
AudiWorld Member
Thread Starter
So heres the rundown
Basically it drove fine upon purchase, for 2 months its been great. Suddenly a CEL comes on, says cat bank 2. I ran cataclean it went away. Later i noticed i was losing power. It never cut off or acted as it would i just didnt have that umph. Next it wouldnt start, i could wait an hour an it would fire up. I stopped driving it for about a month and ordered the fuel pumps. Brand new i installed them along with the weird wk702/3 or something like that. I know its a 4 bar and mine was /3 not /4. But anywho, after installation i cant start my vehicle. Before it would sound as if theres no fuel. Now it sputters. Strong sputters. Battery seems finnikey but 2 auto shops tested it and charged it to 100 for me. But i would leave the doors unlocked and it would drain my battery, i think when you hit the lock on the keyfob twice it makes that beep and shuts everything down not before. Anywho i fully charged the battery and attempted to start it i dont want to re-drain my battery so i tried it only a few times. I feel like the new pumps are working its something to do with pressure, spark, or a crank sensor. Are the only things i can come up with
Trending Topics
08-06-2017, 10:16 AM
#8
AudiWorld Member
Thread Starter
More info
I looked up crank position sensor symptoms and they do not seem similar. Cam position dont seem like its the culprit either. I did notice something oddly broken off on the front of the engine after removing the 4.2 v8 cover i noticed 2 drum looking contraptions. They were rubber and connected to lever arms. One of the plastic lever arms was snapped off. Pictures coming soon. I was able to patch repair it. One was completely unattached and compressed while the other was attached and full.
08-06-2017, 11:40 AM
#9
AudiWorld Super User
I looked up crank position sensor symptoms and they do not seem similar. Cam position dont seem like its the culprit either. I did notice something oddly broken off on the front of the engine after removing the 4.2 v8 cover i noticed 2 drum looking contraptions. They were rubber and connected to lever arms. One of the plastic lever arms was snapped off. Pictures coming soon. I was able to patch repair it. One was completely unattached and compressed while the other was attached and full.
From what you describe, I disagree with you on crank sensor. May or may not be the issue, but I think it remains a possible from what you describe--based on lots of posts folks have made and ultimate solutions that worked or didn't. It's $10 or less for a can of ether as my practical diagnostic to see if motor is firing when issue arises. Just get a can and try it. You still have no real idea if it is fuel or ignition from my vantage point and need to get better tests.
Scan it with VCDS too. That comment is also still valid, and most any of the experienced guys here will tell you that fairly quickly. Gotta spend some money on tools or mechanic to maintain these in general. My guess is there is no magic cure all here, snap your fingers magic YouTube video, new revealed wisdom to be had running it around the track again the second time, or any similar ultimately wishful thinking. Need better/more diagnostics meantime.
A picture would help in what you are now adding in. I can guess what you are describing are the intake air flap vacuum actuators that switch from the long path intake tract to the short one. That will affect performance/peak power, but shouldn't affect basic running/starting. That is, it ties some to your preceding post where you mentioned it felt like power had backed off, but probably not to the no start you are struggling with just now. It is a clue though your motor likely has not been well maintained, or at least some things have gotten broken or tired. If there are vacuum leaks surrounding the actuators or elsewhere on motor, that could also relate to your symptoms. Also, even if you patched it, you likely fixed a symtom (and maybe only temporarily) but not the underlying issue. In particular, you need to see if those flaps built into the intake which the plastic arms connect to ultimately move pretty freely, or if they are binding. If binding, that's an issue and will at least need attention but maybe unfortunately a replacement intake to get back function. You can buy the arms aftermarket from gruven parts (or maybe others too??), but if mechanism is sticking that still won't cure this underlying problem. Repeating though, except for collateral vacuum line leaks (or broken off parts of intake where the flap rods pass into the inside), this actuator and intake flap linkage issue is probably not the answer to to your starting related problem either.
Last edited by MP4.2+6.0; 08-06-2017 at 11:52 AM.
08-06-2017, 12:29 PM
#10
AudiWorld Member
Thread Starter
From what you describe, I disagree with you on crank sensor. May or may not be the issue, but I think it remains a possible from what you describe--based on lots of posts folks have made and ultimate solutions that worked or didn't. It's $10 or less for a can of ether as my practical diagnostic to see if motor is firing when issue arises. Just get a can and try it. You still have no real idea if it is fuel or ignition from my vantage point and need to get better tests.
Scan it with VCDS too. That comment is also still valid, and most any of the experienced guys here will tell you that fairly quickly. Gotta spend some money on tools or mechanic to maintain these in general. My guess is there is no magic cure all here, snap your fingers magic YouTube video, new revealed wisdom to be had running it around the track again the second time, or any similar ultimately wishful thinking. Need better/more diagnostics meantime.
A picture would help in what you are now adding in. I can guess what you are describing are the intake air flap vacuum actuators that switch from the long path intake tract to the short one. That will affect performance/peak power, but shouldn't affect basic running/starting. That is, it ties some to your preceding post where you mentioned it felt like power had backed off, but probably not to the no start you are struggling with just now. It is a clue though your motor likely has not been well maintained, or at least some things have gotten broken or tired. If there are vacuum leaks surrounding the actuators or elsewhere on motor, that could also relate to your symptoms. Also, even if you patched it, you likely fixed a symtom (and maybe only temporarily) but not the underlying issue. In particular, you need to see if those flaps built into the intake which the plastic arms connect to ultimately move pretty freely, or if they are binding. If binding, that's an issue and will at least need attention but maybe unfortunately a replacement intake to get back function. You can buy the arms aftermarket from gruven parts (or maybe others too??), but if mechanism is sticking that still won't cure this underlying problem. Repeating though, except for collateral vacuum line leaks (or broken off parts of intake where the flap rods pass into the inside), this actuator and intake flap linkage issue is probably not the answer to to your starting related problem either.
Scan it with VCDS too. That comment is also still valid, and most any of the experienced guys here will tell you that fairly quickly. Gotta spend some money on tools or mechanic to maintain these in general. My guess is there is no magic cure all here, snap your fingers magic YouTube video, new revealed wisdom to be had running it around the track again the second time, or any similar ultimately wishful thinking. Need better/more diagnostics meantime.
A picture would help in what you are now adding in. I can guess what you are describing are the intake air flap vacuum actuators that switch from the long path intake tract to the short one. That will affect performance/peak power, but shouldn't affect basic running/starting. That is, it ties some to your preceding post where you mentioned it felt like power had backed off, but probably not to the no start you are struggling with just now. It is a clue though your motor likely has not been well maintained, or at least some things have gotten broken or tired. If there are vacuum leaks surrounding the actuators or elsewhere on motor, that could also relate to your symptoms. Also, even if you patched it, you likely fixed a symtom (and maybe only temporarily) but not the underlying issue. In particular, you need to see if those flaps built into the intake which the plastic arms connect to ultimately move pretty freely, or if they are binding. If binding, that's an issue and will at least need attention but maybe unfortunately a replacement intake to get back function. You can buy the arms aftermarket from gruven parts (or maybe others too??), but if mechanism is sticking that still won't cure this underlying problem. Repeating though, except for collateral vacuum line leaks (or broken off parts of intake where the flap rods pass into the inside), this actuator and intake flap linkage issue is probably not the answer to to your starting related problem either.
You can see where it snapped off somehow. A lil caulk definitely saved the day. But it still doesnt start