awdinut

My oil cooler pipe failed two days ago, so now I have no choice but to get the dreaded R&R done. Every account by forum members who have tried this ( except you ) ends with them being defeated by ONE bolt that cant be accessed no matter how many parts they remove...

But you were able to complete the R&R, and in only 8 hours ! My question to you is: How did you did you remove THE bolt (whichever one that is) ? Please share the info because I can direct my indie tech to this thread with your answer then I wont have to throw away my car, because all the estimates I'm getting for this R&R are about $3500. Or I'll be happy to pay you for a write-up of the procedure because it would save me so much money...

Mister Bally

More than one person here has successfully completed this procedure. Don't let something that man built defeat you. Or an independent mechanic.

Personally, I have the replacement part (from Gruven) on hand and the car partially torn apart for other reasons. I will be replacing it myself (likely within two months). My original still hasn't failed with 260,000 miles but I figure I'm in the area, may as well replace it when it will be "easy".

03_AR_CO

Likely the inaccessible bolt is the one you have to remove the exhaust manifold bolt to get at. All the bolts are difficult to get at, relatively speaking. The key is to have a good assortment of allen wrenches, short ones, long ones, and ones with the rounded ends. Perseverance is the key. If you have the Bentley or equivalent, and read through the forum you can do it.

I am far from a skilled mechanic, but was able to do this on my '04 4.2. I did not do it in 8 hours, likely twice that time frame, but my cost was parts only. In addition, to the oild cooler leak repair, while I had it apart, I did the timing belt job (complete), valve cover gaskets, full tuneup.

aTOMic

Not sure if this thread pertains but have a look.

Awdinut, did you see my unicorn story in OT? I am still considering it, but boy it was weird. Car was perfect except UCAs and a/c not as cold as mine. Really nice.

awdinut

The Duke mentions removing the alternator, motor mount, and subframe, but he did not mention removing the manifold. If The Duke has a way to do the R&R without removing the manifold, wouldn't that be better in as much as the manifold bolts (studs?) can get broken off etc..No ?

And if The Duke did not need to remove the manifold, how DID he do it ? Maybe he will give us more details..........please !

Lexdiamondz10304

I just got done replacing the cooler pipe. Used the aluminum pipe. I highly recommend using a telescoping mirror and a cheap set of allen keys you can cut to size. I found the bolts not too bad to remove. The stud was bit tough. I ended up using red locktite and the doublenut method. Most people who replaced it used the "timing belt service" position, and removed the front engine mount. I went through the bottom, removed the lower subframe bar, inner wheel liner, and the passenger side motor mount. Access to the bolts was a bit easier, although removing the alternator was a bit tight with the front end still on. Just dont forget to support the engine while the subframe bar is out. I used a engine support bar, and a small jack underneath the subframe. Overall Job took about 12 hrs. Including cleaning, cursing, and replacing the seals on the oil cooler just because I had them on hand. From all the orings removed, the original figure 8 seal looked ok, all other o rings were flat and worn.

I highly recommend getting replacement o rings for the alternator coolant pipes (qty 4), the figure 8 oring in case its flat (comes in the oil cooler seals kit), and the oring for the coolant pipe that sits in the way of the middle bolt (qty 1).

Figure 8 Kit PN: 077198405 (46$)
Alternator Pipe Orings PN: 90783401 (1$)
Middle bolt Coolant Pipe Oring PN: 077121437 ($5)

I got my parts from ECS Tuning.

ltooz_a6_a8_q7

one procedure with pictures or videos?
My car has only 115k miles, the pipe may last until 250k miles like Mr. Bally. I won't have a chance to make a video for it.

Cheers,

Louis

the_duke

Manifold does not need to be removed. Just one of the studs. I used the two nut method. A regular nut followed by a blind nut(see below) that I cut down smaller so the socket fit over it. It was very easy and the stud came right out.

Definitely replace the alternator pipe o-rings. I put mine back together and filled it with my vacuum coolant filler. Then as soon as I removed vacuum it started leaking. Had to drain all the coolant, pull the pipes, replace the o-rings, and put it all back together and refill. Pain in the *** and I know better than not replacing o-rings.