Reprogram Advanced key Master?
- 2 Master keys
- 1 Valet key
- 1 Plastic tag key
The one Master key that the previous owner always used works perfectly for all Advanced Key functions. The Valet key also works as it is supposed to... but the 2nd Master key, works manually in the door lock, but not in the ignition (turns, but does not start) nor do any of the Advanced key functions work on it... and I can't seem to find any instructions on resync'ing it? I have looked at many google searches, but nothing seems to be the right steps for this car/key combination. The battery appears to be good, as the check light illuminates with button presses. Does anyone know the correct procedure?
Last edited by 97urS6; Oct 6, 2016 at 02:19 AM. Reason: Typo
Two possibilities:
1. Key has never been programmed, and dealer can do it. That happens if someone buys the vigin remote from the dealer and orders the key element (by VIN) and assembles. It is actually a two part assembly. If you look carefully at the blade with it folded about 90 degrees you can see where the roll pin is that holds the blade to the remote base. Not really logical to be this, since owner would have gotten it programmed if they went to the trouble of ordering it up.
2. Their original key took a bath in the washing machine and it is the original still but is now drowned and brain dead forever. Or, it's a kludge and also worthless except to get doors open (with difficulty). That happens if someone buys off EBay or somewhere else and gets a used or blank key. They go to a locksmith place and get the key end cut, since a fair number of locksmith type shops have the equipment now.
My guess unfortunately is it is some variant of #2. There is nothing you can do in any case to self program the remote. Needs a computer connection to Ingolstadt. Old self programming went away with transition from D2 era.
Last edited by MP4.2+6.0; Oct 6, 2016 at 07:22 AM.
Two possibilities:
1. Key has never been programmed, and dealer can do it. That happens if someone buys the vigin remote from the dealer and orders the key element (by VIN) and assembles. It is actually a two part assembly. If you look carefully at the blade with it folded about 90 degrees you can see where the roll pin is that holds the blade to the remote base. Not really logical to be this, since owner would have gotten it programmed if they went to the trouble of ordering it up.
2. Their original key took a bath in the washing machine and it is the original still but is now drowned and brain dead forever. Or, it's a kludge and also worthless except to get doors open (with difficulty). That happens if someone buys off EBay or somewhere else and gets a used or blank key. They go to a locksmith place and get the key end cut, since a fair number of locksmith type shops have the equipment now.
My guess unfortunately is it is some variant of #2. There is nothing you can do in any case to self program the remote. Needs a computer connection to Ingolstadt. Old self programming went away with transition from D2 era.




As Duke said, try the battery, then if it does not work, you can handle this a few ways, you can take it to the dealer and have them add it back into the Kessy as a trusted key, you will need all keys present at that time, BUT they may find out that the key is just dead, just as a member here found, then you can order a new key from the dealer by VIN #, but beware the VIN # is only for the cutting of the blade, programming will still need to be preformed, OR, if you have your vehicles secret key code (SKC) then you can program the KESSY to accept the key you have if it is good with the Ross-Tech cable and software, again all keys must be present, if you do not have the SKC then you will need a item such as CarProg to read the 93C86 chip in the KESSY module located under the carpet on the drivers side floorboard or the 95080 chip in the ECM, with this SKC you go into Ross-Tech [05 - Acc/Start Auth.].
I think the big misconception is that people think the key itself is being programmed, the way I see it is that the keys emit a code and the KESSY accepts it if it is a stored key, that is why you need the SKC to get into the KESSY to do the programming of the KESSY itself to store the keys information, NOT the other way around, as it is the "key being adapted to Immobilizer.", as I have stated in the past, I ordered two new keys from Bentley by my VIN #, BUT the VIN # is only for the cutting of the blade, the two brand new keys still needed to be added to the vehicle by way of programing of the KESSY, AKA, "Immobilizer III Key Matching (Kessy)".
Dead key link.
https://www.audiworld.com/forums/a8-...ation-2900269/
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881 Sumneytown Pike
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Immobilizer III Key Matching (Kessy)
From Ross-Tech Wiki
This procedure details how to match new keys to VW/Audi/Seat/Skoda vehicles with with Immobilizer III, where the immobilizer control module is integrated in a separate immo box. See the separate instructions for models where the immobilizer control module is integrated in instrument cluster or where the immobilizer control module is part of a separate Control Module).
Determining IMMO-ID & VIN
[Select]
[05 - Acc/Start Auth.]
[Meas. Blocks - 08]
Select Block 081.
[Go!]
The first 17-digit string is the VIN. The second 14-digit string in the Immo-ID..
[Done, Go Back]
[Close Controller, Go Back - 06]
Key Matching
Prerequisites:
- Battery voltage at least 12.0 V. We strongly recommend the use of a battery charger.
- You can match up to 8 keys.
- All keys are either new or were adapted to this car (IMMO-ID) before.
- While adapting each key, make sure to place the other keys away from the ignition lock (reader coil). The passenger seat is an adequate place.
- If all Keys are new OR the first inserted Key is new, the Ignition will NOT switch ON with this key.
- Put the first Key into the ignition Lock, but do NOT switch ON the ignition.
- Press and Hold the Brake Pedal for 20 Seconds to wake up the Diagnostic Databus.
[05 - Acc/Start Auth.]
[Meas. Blocks - 08]
Select Block 022.
[Go!]
The value in field 3 must be 1. If value is not 1, the key is not capable of being adapted to Immobilizer.
You can check each key in this manner.
Select Block 023.
[Go!]
Make sure the shown lock times in field 1, 2, 3 and 4 are 0 (each field represents a time in minutes).
- If the lock times are NOT 0:
- Do NOT switch off the ignition!
- Allow the car to sit for AT LEAST the number of minutes that were indicated by the fields 1-4.
[Sec. Access - 16]
- 4-digit PIN
- Enter zero followed by the 4-digit PIN. For example, if your PIN is 1234, enter 01234.
- 7-digit PIN
[Adaptation - 10]
Enter 21 in "Channel Number".
[Read]
The "Stored Value" is the number of keys currently matched.
Enter a "new value" corresponding to the total number of keys to be matched, including any existing keys.
The old keys are automatically being cleared.
[Save]
[Done, Go Back]
[Close Controller, Go Back - 06]
- Repeat the following steps until all Keys have been matched:
- Switch Ignition OFF and remove Key, Steering Lock should engage.
- Insert the next Key and switch Ignition ON.
- The Immobilizer Warning Light will light up for ~2 seconds, wait until it goes out.
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Last edited by Giovanni Giovino 6.0+6.0TT; Oct 6, 2016 at 10:16 AM. Reason: Correct info, 05 vs. 25
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Yes finally got into the dealer this week... they charged me an hour labour ($129 CDN), but I came out with 2 Master keys that were completely functional.
Now I understand why their rates are so high... nice building, a 20 bay garage, 4 service advisors, 2 service managers floating around, secretary that came over and made me an espresso, they washed and vacuumed the car... in and out in exactly one hour. OMG.
Yes finally got into the dealer this week... they charged me an hour labour ($129 CDN), but I came out with 2 Master keys that were completely functional.
Now I understand why their rates are so high... nice building, a 20 bay garage, 4 service advisors, 2 service managers floating around, secretary that came over and made me an espresso, they washed and vacuumed the car... in and out in exactly one hour. OMG.
Replacing the battery and getting it functioning again... is that something that can be done at home? If so, does anyone have the steps involved?





