vag-com. for rent?
#11
AudiWorld Senior Member
When I bought one from eBay, I saw that there were a few that you could rent. You pay something like $15-$45 for the 7-day rental, and they also require a $350 deposit that (ideally) gets refunded after they receive their cable back.
#12
AudiWorld Super User
Let me try a different angle to whole thread: how about, "rent" a mechanic instead?
As in, D3 is older now. Should really get a thorough inspection, both electronically and physically. Physical seems hard to do right really, even if you bring coveralls and do some goofy improvise like park on a curb. I would want to drop belly pan to look for leaks, get hands deep down in back looking/feeling for valve cover leaks, see bottom of tranny and diffs (another cover further back), see CV boots esp. front, look at suspension components and again esp. front, look at output seal at back of Torsen, look for bends on inside of wheels, etc. Road damage aside, same stuff I look at very carefully when a car I own is about to clock off warranty BTW. And absent a lot of ongoing service documentation or the unusual comprehensive DIY'er like some here, expect to find issues which then enter into both go/no go and price outcomes.
So, VCDS scan is good. Especially to look at ECU readiness codes BTW as a bonus to also see if someone conveniently just cleared. But, only part of the equation. To really solve the physical inspection for a serious purchase then, aren't you back to an indy shop for a PPI, and with a mechanic who has VCDS or similar comprehensive scan tool? Miss even one fluid or other seal leak underneath or one CV axle and it is probably a grand of parts and labor, often more. Or a weeping radiator, or... I'm a big advocate of VCDS, but at the margin my sense is a thorough check of every switch and function, looking at dash for any lights at all, and a mechanical inspection is likely the better trade off if you have to pick A or B, even if person just uses a basic piece o crap code scanner that can at least look at most basic modules and readiness codes for end runs. I keep harping on readiness codes having seen too many posts where conveniently CEL turns on just after purchase. Thus scanning the patient who just got a lobotomy wipe--especially at some no name sales place and/or washed through auctions--doesn't say lot except for instant chronic issues. But readiness codes can reveal game was played at least in recent days of running. Doing both approaches (PPI physical and electronic) is best of course.
As in, D3 is older now. Should really get a thorough inspection, both electronically and physically. Physical seems hard to do right really, even if you bring coveralls and do some goofy improvise like park on a curb. I would want to drop belly pan to look for leaks, get hands deep down in back looking/feeling for valve cover leaks, see bottom of tranny and diffs (another cover further back), see CV boots esp. front, look at suspension components and again esp. front, look at output seal at back of Torsen, look for bends on inside of wheels, etc. Road damage aside, same stuff I look at very carefully when a car I own is about to clock off warranty BTW. And absent a lot of ongoing service documentation or the unusual comprehensive DIY'er like some here, expect to find issues which then enter into both go/no go and price outcomes.
So, VCDS scan is good. Especially to look at ECU readiness codes BTW as a bonus to also see if someone conveniently just cleared. But, only part of the equation. To really solve the physical inspection for a serious purchase then, aren't you back to an indy shop for a PPI, and with a mechanic who has VCDS or similar comprehensive scan tool? Miss even one fluid or other seal leak underneath or one CV axle and it is probably a grand of parts and labor, often more. Or a weeping radiator, or... I'm a big advocate of VCDS, but at the margin my sense is a thorough check of every switch and function, looking at dash for any lights at all, and a mechanical inspection is likely the better trade off if you have to pick A or B, even if person just uses a basic piece o crap code scanner that can at least look at most basic modules and readiness codes for end runs. I keep harping on readiness codes having seen too many posts where conveniently CEL turns on just after purchase. Thus scanning the patient who just got a lobotomy wipe--especially at some no name sales place and/or washed through auctions--doesn't say lot except for instant chronic issues. But readiness codes can reveal game was played at least in recent days of running. Doing both approaches (PPI physical and electronic) is best of course.
Last edited by MP4.2+6.0; 05-07-2016 at 08:25 AM.
#13
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#14
Let me try a different angle to whole thread: how about, "rent" a mechanic instead?
As in, D3 is older now. Should really get a thorough inspection, both electronically and physically. Physical seems hard to do right really, even if you bring coveralls and do some goofy improvise like park on a curb. I would want to drop belly pan to look for leaks, get hands deep down in back looking/feeling for valve cover leaks, see bottom of tranny and diffs (another cover further back), see CV boots esp. front, look at suspension components and again esp. front, look at output seal at back of Torsen, look for bends on inside of wheels, etc. Road damage aside, same stuff I look at very carefully when a car I own is about to clock off warranty BTW. And absent a lot of ongoing service documentation or the unusual comprehensive DIY'er like some here, expect to find issues which then enter into both go/no go and price outcomes.
So, VCDS scan is good. Especially to look at ECU readiness codes BTW as a bonus to also see if someone conveniently just cleared. But, only part of the equation. To really solve the physical inspection for a serious purchase then, aren't you back to an indy shop for a PPI, and with a mechanic who has VCDS or similar comprehensive scan tool? Miss even one fluid or other seal leak underneath or one CV axle and it is probably a grand of parts and labor, often more. Or a weeping radiator, or... I'm a big advocate of VCDS, but at the margin my sense is a thorough check of every switch and function, looking at dash for any lights at all, and a mechanical inspection is likely the better trade off if you have to pick A or B, even if person just uses a basic piece o crap code scanner that can at least look at most basic modules and readiness codes for end runs. I keep harping on readiness codes having seen too many posts where conveniently CEL turns on just after purchase. Thus scanning the patient who just got a lobotomy wipe--especially at some no name sales place and/or washed through auctions--doesn't say lot except for instant chronic issues. But readiness codes can reveal game was played at least in recent days of running. Doing both approaches (PPI physical and electronic) is best of course.
As in, D3 is older now. Should really get a thorough inspection, both electronically and physically. Physical seems hard to do right really, even if you bring coveralls and do some goofy improvise like park on a curb. I would want to drop belly pan to look for leaks, get hands deep down in back looking/feeling for valve cover leaks, see bottom of tranny and diffs (another cover further back), see CV boots esp. front, look at suspension components and again esp. front, look at output seal at back of Torsen, look for bends on inside of wheels, etc. Road damage aside, same stuff I look at very carefully when a car I own is about to clock off warranty BTW. And absent a lot of ongoing service documentation or the unusual comprehensive DIY'er like some here, expect to find issues which then enter into both go/no go and price outcomes.
So, VCDS scan is good. Especially to look at ECU readiness codes BTW as a bonus to also see if someone conveniently just cleared. But, only part of the equation. To really solve the physical inspection for a serious purchase then, aren't you back to an indy shop for a PPI, and with a mechanic who has VCDS or similar comprehensive scan tool? Miss even one fluid or other seal leak underneath or one CV axle and it is probably a grand of parts and labor, often more. Or a weeping radiator, or... I'm a big advocate of VCDS, but at the margin my sense is a thorough check of every switch and function, looking at dash for any lights at all, and a mechanical inspection is likely the better trade off if you have to pick A or B, even if person just uses a basic piece o crap code scanner that can at least look at most basic modules and readiness codes for end runs. I keep harping on readiness codes having seen too many posts where conveniently CEL turns on just after purchase. Thus scanning the patient who just got a lobotomy wipe--especially at some no name sales place and/or washed through auctions--doesn't say lot except for instant chronic issues. But readiness codes can reveal game was played at least in recent days of running. Doing both approaches (PPI physical and electronic) is best of course.
I'll take a not of what you mentioned that you would check, so if I have to do myself I'll know. I'm going to check on eBay and see what I find as for the VCDS. I'm also going to do more searching and make a list of other things I need to check/look at.
THANKS again guys.... My apologies in advance for all the novice Questions that I might ask..
#15
AudiWorld Super User
Thanks MP4.2+6.0... I've considered getting a mechanic, but the two I ask was charging $75.00-$90.00 an hour. I don't think dealers would do a good enough inspection either. ...
I'll take a not of what you mentioned that you would check, so if I have to do myself I'll know. I'm going to check on eBay and see what I find as for the VCDS. I'm also going to do more searching and make a list of other things I need to check/look at.
THANKS again guys.... My apologies in advance for all the novice Questions that I might ask..
I'll take a not of what you mentioned that you would check, so if I have to do myself I'll know. I'm going to check on eBay and see what I find as for the VCDS. I'm also going to do more searching and make a list of other things I need to check/look at.
THANKS again guys.... My apologies in advance for all the novice Questions that I might ask..
#16
Hey Jack88, I did look at their site (price not bad), so I'll consider it.. I'm in the market for the newer model 2008-10. I am aware that the newer models use chains instead of belts, but at the same time as being better, the chain guide do need maintenance.. I'm going to go over a few things I've read that member's have posted.
#17
AudiWorld Super User
Thanks MP4.2+6.0... I've considered getting a mechanic, but the two I ask was charging $75.00-$90.00 an hour. I don't think dealers would do a good enough inspection either. ...
I'll take a not of what you mentioned that you would check, so if I have to do myself I'll know. I'm going to check on eBay and see what I find as for the VCDS. I'm also going to do more searching and make a list of other things I need to check/look at.
THANKS again guys.... My apologies in advance for all the novice Questions that I might ask..
I'll take a not of what you mentioned that you would check, so if I have to do myself I'll know. I'm going to check on eBay and see what I find as for the VCDS. I'm also going to do more searching and make a list of other things I need to check/look at.
THANKS again guys.... My apologies in advance for all the novice Questions that I might ask..
I agree with MP. A scan can only tell you so much. For example, VCDS can't tell you if a car has been repaired from an accident nor can it tell the condition and wear of various mechanical components. A visual inspection by an experienced, quality tech is the way to go if you want to know the car's true condition. $100 is a very small investment for a $40K-$60K car.
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