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Pulled all of the coil packs and spark plugs today. Every spark plug hole had oil in it. I replaced one a year or so ago due to a misfire. Should I just clean these and reuse or replace them all since they are out?
By the way, any plug/clip I touch breaks. Very frustrating. Reassembly begins Saturday. Wish me luck.
Given labor I would replace all. Hopefully you are tracking down oil source? Maybe up oil viscosity too if you think it is general wear, especially if you live in a more temperate climate.
Dealer sells the various plastic harness connectors. Once you replace one or two you get the hang of it. No soldering, you just carefully break apart the old one the extract the terminals. Usually heat soaked when old so they crack like a walnut. Do not use ANY prying tool on ANY Audi connector, or about 9 out of 10 times it will break. BTDT, lots of times.
Have an oil leak coming from under the intake, so finally got the courage to pull it. Oil was literally pouring out, so didn't have much choice. Found lots of carbon and pieces of plastic on top of some intake valves.
Plastic on top of valve. Mmmmmmm carbon. Some more. And more.
So now the decision becomes, fix the oil leak and put it back together. Or.....do intake, injectors, valve cover gaskets, plugs, coils, carbon clean, etc, etc.
youve done the heavy lifting, might as well do the carbon clean. And the o rings on the oil filter housing, probably your leak. Mine was the same at 55k did the whole deal. Did valve cover gaskets too. Simpler now that the intake is out and the fuel lines are out of the way. $60 will get you a media blaster and the walnut shells for the carbon cleaning and there is a guy that sells the adapters for the valves over on Audizine that works really well.
Have an oil leak coming from under the intake, so finally got the courage to pull it. Oil was literally pouring out, so didn't have much choice. Found lots of carbon and pieces of plastic on top of some intake valves.
Plastic on top of valve. Mmmmmmm carbon. Some more. And more.
So now the decision becomes, fix the oil leak and put it back together. Or.....do intake, injectors, valve cover gaskets, plugs, coils, carbon clean, etc, etc.
were you able to pull the intake without pulling the nose off and moving the radiator? If so, you’re my hero. I don’t know if I could’ve done it without pulling the rad out of the way. I didn’t mind because I drained and refilled the cooling system too and I wanted to do that anyway. But would’ve liked to not have had to pull the nose off.
Pulled all of the coil packs and spark plugs today. Every spark plug hole had oil in it. I replaced one a year or so ago due to a misfire. Should I just clean these and reuse or replace them all since they are out?
By the way, any plug/clip I touch breaks. Very frustrating. Reassembly begins Saturday. Wish me luck.
The breaking clips is a bitch. I busted the TB connectors and one of the blue ones on the front of the intake, but a trip to the salvage yard and a homemade repinning tool did the trick. For the blue plug anyway, I had to order from ECS the TB connectors. A right angle pick works wonders for disconnecting those connectors without breaking them. But live and learn.
You can reuse the coil packs as they aren’t too tough to swap out if they fail. But you’ll need to replace the valve cover gaskets to fix the oil leak issue. And you’ll want to do that. While everything is tore apart.
Jimellis audi sells the gaskets for a decent price, but you can probably get them at ECS too. I bought all my gaskets through Jim Ellis to get the OEM stuff. Plugs and all.
Given labor I would replace all. Hopefully you are tracking down oil source? Maybe up oil viscosity too if you think it is general wear, especially if you live in a more temperate climate.
Dealer sells the various plastic harness connectors. Once you replace one or two you get the hang of it. No soldering, you just carefully break apart the old one the extract the terminals. Usually heat soaked when old so they crack like a walnut. Do not use ANY prying tool on ANY Audi connector, or about 9 out of 10 times it will break. BTDT, lots of times.
a right angle pick works perfect for releasing the clips, then just slide the clip off. The only ones I broke doing my intake were the ones I didn’t slide the pick tool user the tab, and tried to use the actual pull tab at the back of the connector. That’s a sure fire way to snap them off. But a trip to a savage yard will get as many connectors as you want, any VAG car will do, or similar vintage. And then you need to buy or make a repinning tool to pop the pins out of the old and slide them into the new. Pretty simple deal there. A guy on YouTube has a great how to to make your own tool out of wiper blade steel runners. Works great. But have to be patient with the filing. Or eBay has some inexpensive repinning tool sets that should work too.
I liked the walnut method, but if you don’t mind scraping...
Before After
Originally Posted by 3RDGENFRANK
Before. After. After.
Used Berryman B-12 Chemtool full strength to break down the carbon and oil deposits. It works really well, but it will melt gloves, plastic screwdriver handles, etc. I bought a dentist style pick set from Harbor Freight that works well for getting around the valves and in crevices. Parts should be here Tuesday. I found my Fine Oil Separator/PCV valve was leaking along a seam, so still have to order it. Was going to get rebuilt injectors from JH Motorsport, but they had none in stock. Rock Auto has OEM Hitachi's for $93 each.
Anything else I should replace since I've got it down to this level? Already doing intake, oil filter housing gaskets, valve cover gaskets, plugs, oil separator, injectors, and valley pan gasket.
Before and after about 15-20 mins each valve set at most, some were 5-10 mins depending on how well the media blaster fed the shells.
[img]webkit-fake-url://ce0a5bb6-13d2-4bc4-8102-b44f5f7e566e/imagejpeg[/img][img]webkit-fake-url://60915d51-5a98-4449-a0a6-128602e60cb9/imagejpeg[/img]
Last edited by tsuter; 02-26-2018 at 06:52 PM.
Reason: Photos
a right angle pick works perfect for releasing the clips, then just slide the clip off. The only ones I broke doing my intake were the ones I didn’t slide the pick tool user the tab, and tried to use the actual pull tab at the back of the connector. That’s a sure fire way to snap them off. But a trip to a savage yard will get as many connectors as you want, any VAG car will do, or similar vintage. And then you need to buy or make a repinning tool to pop the pins out of the old and slide them into the new. Pretty simple deal there. A guy on YouTube has a great how to to make your own tool out of wiper blade steel runners. Works great. But have to be patient with the filing. Or eBay has some inexpensive repinning tool sets that should work too.
To each his own. Any tool to me is a great way to snap them, with literally 6 generations of dealing with them. Newer ones worse than when they used to use a metal locking wire you simply squeezed an they lasted forever. No need for a pin or other specialty tool beyond pliers and sometimes a box knife if you crush the old one to extract terminals--about 2-5 minutes. I prefer new not heat soaked that don't cost much big picture anyway. Both W12 and things turbo make 'em nice and toasty, though my 4.2 A6 cooked 'em well by ten years too.
were you able to pull the intake without pulling the nose off and moving the radiator? If so, you’re my hero. I don’t know if I could’ve done it without pulling the rad out of the way. I didn’t mind because I drained and refilled the cooling system too and I wanted to do that anyway. But would’ve liked to not have had to pull the nose off.
I did not have to pull the nose off or move the radiator, but it would have made things easier. Barely enough room to get my hands in to take things apart. We'll see if I can put it back together.
02-26-2018, 04:51 PM
