When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
That's a fair amount of pad left (for rears). Hard to estimate "life left" without knowing the current mileage and your driving habits. I personally wouldn't give those a second look and just leave them alone, but then again I would just replace them myself when the need arose.
Can you guys comment on your estimation of my rear brake pad life left. CPO states at least 50% break pad life. This to me does not look like 50% life left. Trying to see if the dealer should of replaced the pads / rotors during the CPO.
Close call perhaps (only) on pad wear, but in practical terms probably peeing in wind honestly in getting anywhere. Time to raise it was at walk around inspection/delivery. And in plain English, those pads look perfectly serviceable and with life decent left. Meantime, what does your CPO inspection checklist say? Have you looked? There is a little table in the brakes inspection section they are supposed to fill out with all these wear #'s, and every CPO delivery is supposed to include the completed checklist signed off by the tech. It comes in a folder sort of thing. Lok at/post what it says.
For the technical dive and arm chair eyeballing:
If I interpret picture correctly, the metal backplate for the pad can be spotted by the slightly rust tarnished area about 70% of way down picture height. My eyeball would say that is down to about half the total pad thickness (or maybe just a tad more) still left. But that is different than half of useful life since except for total ghetto you don't let brakes ever go metal to metal, and certainly not if rotors have more life. If you see that long soft line in the black pad material extending from below the caliper metal casting down to the end of the side of the pad, my guess is that when worn to that line it would be about 3mm left and where wear sensor would come on. Said another way, pad is something like 11mm of total material (guessing on that from D3 experience), 3mm of which is after sensor turn on, leaving approx 8mm (about ⅓ ") to be consumed. Half would be 4mm. I would guess maybe a little less than 3mm is left to that line, so maybe 5mm is gone. But I am putting a lot of judgment with no direct scale beyond long personal experience into interpreting that pic.
You have no info here at all to judge rotor wear. Rotors can often go two sets of pads. D4 in front may only go one though from my sense of posts to date, though maybe a lower weight and lower power set up (and perhaps drivers to match) may give 3.0T some edge. Haven't seen enough posts on rear (or hardly any really) to know, and certainly not by motor. Depends on wear spec for car too. To get definitive info here, you really need to mic the rotor and compare it to the wear spec for it. Wear specs is published somewhere, but also always stamped on a rotor now. A guess is it is 2mm total from whatever starting thickness is. Informally, you can look at the typical wear lip on a rotor. The math would be 1mm limit per side for 2 total, if it is a 2mm overall spec.--something like the thickness of the heavier material at back of a pad of paper. Meantime, read CPO words again. 50% is only on pad thickness. Takes a close read, but words parsed carefully only say rotor has to be above minimum wear spec. If car is still on first pads, with the much pad still left I doubt it is a close call as yet against the rotor wear spec. A guess is if the CPO table was completed, the rotors are probably an easy pass against low end of wear spec if this is a 20 or 30K mile car.
Without getting into too many details I was basically lied to and terribly mislead by the dealer in multiple ways. Everything from what Audi care was and how it worked and the price I paid for the service based on absolute misinformation. The car was sold to me as a cpo to only find out it was "pre-qualified" as a cpo but the inspection had not been done. I returned to the dealer for the inspection and was never given the cpo paperwork. I asked about it but was told there was nothing for me that it just for them to send it to Audi. Another load of BS. So I do not have this inpection document. This is why I am concerned about what was intentionally not done.
I have already spoken with cooperate and have a case open. I was unable to get them to agree to help me with a refund of the total ripoff price I paid for Audi Care but this is a lessoned learned. I also cancelled the other 3rd party warranty I was sold as a "package" with Audi care and should receive a full refund on this.
There is another dealer close to me that is willing to look at a few things free of charge to help with the process. It just sucks to go through this crap. It is no wonder so many people hate deslerhsips. So many are the epitome of unethical and deceiving SOB's. I knew in my gut I should of said no to all the extended warranty crap. Oh well, you live and learn. At least the price on the vehicle was good. I just hope nothing major was intentionally disregarded during the cpo.
Last edited by LexusLSguy; 03-06-2017 at 03:37 PM.
Oh, I forgot to mention. 54k miles are on the car when I purchased it. Rotors look actually pretty good. Here is a shot of the fronts. Not that great I know but it's hard to get my phone inside the rim... lol
Last edited by LexusLSguy; 03-06-2017 at 03:35 PM.
Yeah, I overpaid for Audi Care by $1500. But it was sold to me as coverage up to 100k miles. I mean at the time $2500 for 50k worth maintenance is not a bad deal. Turns out he only gave me package 4. I raised hell upon learning the truth and they did the 55k maintenance for "free".
The car is cpo'd and in the system so I'm not too worried about this just more upset at the process. It's a great car. I only paid 33,7 for the car so I can't complain on this end. Just the other shady activities. Honestly, nothing else may be wrong it's just I'm kind of leery about a few things because how they were handled. Hopefully cooperate will help. We shall see.
Last edited by LexusLSguy; 03-06-2017 at 03:50 PM.
Yeah, I overpaid for Audi Care by $1500. But it was sold to me as coverage up to 100k miles. I mean at the time $2500 for 50k worth maintenance is not a bad deal. Turns out he only gave me package 4. I raised hell upon learning the truth and they did the 55k maintenance for "free".
The car is cpo'd and in the system so I'm not too worried about this just more upset at the process. It's a great car. I only paid 33,7 for the car so I can't complain on this end. Just the other shady activities. Honestly, nothing else may be wrong it's just I'm kind of leery about a few things because how they were handled. Hopefully cooperate will help. We shall see.
If its the 3.0T, the major service was at 55K IIRC, then next one wouldn't be until 115K. The others are basically oil changes, brake fluid every two years and an occasional HVAC filter plus some supposed comprehensive checks. Thus, some inexpensive oil changes beyond what you ended up with via a decent indy and the other minor stuff and you go well past 100K anyway.
From what you describe, making sure CPO is in order coverage wise as the big important one. Then whatever corporate customer relations does. Beyond that enjoy the car and find a qualified dealer service dept.
I can't make out the front pads clearly BTW, so no feedback on actual condition. Fronts generally start thicker than the rears. Basically if you see like 10mm/ 3/8" of more of pad material, you have some decent life left to them. If down to ¼" in front, getting to probably last 10K--just as basic guideline/expectation for mixed city/suburban and highway use.
Thanks MP. I'm going to have the local Audi dealer who has been very helpful do a general run through to be on the safe side. It is the 3.0 engine which is why I raised hell to have the plugs & serpentine belt done. When I spoke to the service manager today about why I was not given my cpo inspection document he just became rude and passed me off to the voicemail of the finance manager. Who did not call me back of course. Bastards. I honestly doubt cooperate will do anything but it's worth a try. So yeah, my next next two oil changes basically cost me an absurd amount but I'm happy the plugs / belt is done.
After my 75k I'm actually going to do the oil changes myself. I will invest in vagcom. I have rebuilt a few engines in the past and while I'm not a mechanic I can do a decent amount of the standard items myself. Honestly, even the plugs on the 3.0 look rather easy to do.
Last edited by LexusLSguy; 03-06-2017 at 05:46 PM.
After my 75k I'm actually going to do the oil changes myself. I will invest in vagcom. I have rebuilt a few engines in the past and while I'm not a mechanic I can do a decent amount of the standard items myself. Honestly, even the plugs on the 3.0 look rather easy to do.
Agreed, there is no real magic in routine Audi maintenance. Just have to get familiar with given set up. Since the motor that takes all the D4 room available is the W12, there is already decent room in my 4.0T to work underhood, and yet more with a six. Drop belly pan once and you learn that drill; 10 minutes on 4.0T now for the tweener oil change I recently did for heck of it once car either jacked up or driven up on ramps. Brakes, filter change outs and all very middle of the road typical as most vehicles go these days. Up to that level of maintenance almost no specialized tools beyond a decent general metric tool set. VCDS (VAG COM) is amazing for the $. By contrast, it kind of aggravates me these days any time I help someone out with a Merc. or the old family Toyota or whatever about how inaccessible the electronics and diagnostic aids really are on most cars without much more expensive and less friendly tools. VCDS makes diagnostics much more precise a lot of the time where it can be frustrating guesswork on others.
03-06-2017, 01:25 PM
