Headgasket replacement is finished
#1
AudiWorld Super User
Thread Starter
Headgasket replacement is finished
As far as I can tell, there's no change.
After some moderately hard driving on the freeway, there was all kinds of pressure in the coolant tank and the cap couldn't be removed without the coolant wanting to boil up out of it.
So it appears to have been a big waste of a lot of time and about $300.
Maybe the new valve stem seals will lessen or eliminate the oil consumption and make me feel like less of a jack-***.
I guess the next step is to either buy a $275 new radiator, or have one of the tanks pulled off mine and see what's going on inside.
After some moderately hard driving on the freeway, there was all kinds of pressure in the coolant tank and the cap couldn't be removed without the coolant wanting to boil up out of it.
So it appears to have been a big waste of a lot of time and about $300.
Maybe the new valve stem seals will lessen or eliminate the oil consumption and make me feel like less of a jack-***.
I guess the next step is to either buy a $275 new radiator, or have one of the tanks pulled off mine and see what's going on inside.
#3
When I first bought my car I had overheating issues only when coming off...
of some hard freeway driving and then stop and go stuff. I had a blockage in my radiator and fortunately the dealer I bought the car from used gave me a new radiator. That's too bad, I guess you have peace of mind on the heads now but I hope it works out. Any difference cleaning up those fuel injector port areas made in performance?
#4
AudiWorld Super User
Thread Starter
I can't tell if the injector port trimming made a difference or not.
With the Mance MAF, and my self-Manced throttle body, it already screams. I'm sure it made a difference because those are big ol' hunks of metal sticking out.
The pisser is that my chemical tester did turn yellow and that indicates CO2 was present.
I guess the 2 good things about it are that I fixed the oil leak from the valley pan gasket, and I put in new valve stem seals. (Big whoop....coulda done those both with the heads on and $300 still in my pocket.)
The pisser is that my chemical tester did turn yellow and that indicates CO2 was present.
I guess the 2 good things about it are that I fixed the oil leak from the valley pan gasket, and I put in new valve stem seals. (Big whoop....coulda done those both with the heads on and $300 still in my pocket.)
#5
I belive new radiator is the only cure for boiling over,
As it told you before it made very significant difference in my case now it wouldn't boil over at all City driving the oil temp needle stays below second line .On Highways only if i am doing 75 or more the needle goes above second line
Btw i still lose coolant with out any signs of leakage . around 1 quart or less over a week i am planning to replace reservoir even though i don't see any thing wrong with it ..
Todd, out of curiosity could you try the CO2 chemical tester again . Want to know if new HG is really making the difference
Btw i still lose coolant with out any signs of leakage . around 1 quart or less over a week i am planning to replace reservoir even though i don't see any thing wrong with it ..
Todd, out of curiosity could you try the CO2 chemical tester again . Want to know if new HG is really making the difference
#7
AudiWorld Super User
Thread Starter
Yes, going to drive it today and then do a chem test again.
I shot some temps with infrared temp gun around the engine yesterday after my drive. The black metal coolant pipe that wraps around the rear of both heads was 222*F and the top of the radiator at the inlet was only 175*F. So things are definately getting hot, even though the fans are cycling.
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#8
AudiWorld Super User
Thread Starter
Did you have the heads milled? No, they were straight...
I couldn't get a .0015" under a straightedge. I dressed the heads and the block with a 2"x2" straight bar.
#9
AudiWorld Super User
Thread Starter
Back from a 60mi test drive
VAG-Com shows engine coolant temp at 102*C and my infrared temp gun shows 99*C on the surface of the black metal cylinder head coolant pipe.
So, I'd say it's running hot.
Outside air temps this morning were only in the 60*F range, and I kept the speed locked at 60mph with the CC, just to see what would happen during a "normal" drive.
After 30mi I got a CEL indicating Bank 1 and 2 too lean (P0174 & P0171) and it stayed on for the 30mi return home. Wonder if the Mance MAF is causing that. I was getting that code occationaly before, but not a steady CEL due to it.
Guess I'll be looking at fuel trim and O2 sensor function next.
So, I'd say it's running hot.
Outside air temps this morning were only in the 60*F range, and I kept the speed locked at 60mph with the CC, just to see what would happen during a "normal" drive.
After 30mi I got a CEL indicating Bank 1 and 2 too lean (P0174 & P0171) and it stayed on for the 30mi return home. Wonder if the Mance MAF is causing that. I was getting that code occationaly before, but not a steady CEL due to it.
Guess I'll be looking at fuel trim and O2 sensor function next.