tk1780

Can you DIY? Do you need some kind of press?

Shop wants two hours to do it.

If you need a press, where can you buy one?

Greyhound Guy

Not sure you want to buy the tool for the job. Maybe a used one or borrow one or rent one.

MAA6

Surely someone with specific C4 knowledge will answer this, but speaking from changing VW rear bearings, it was quite simple without any special tools. Hopefully the C4 is the same, but what is took was removing the outer cover and but, remove the outer bearing, and then pulling off disk. Use a simple screw driver head and rubber mallet to gently tap out bearing race from disk. Then, what I found was that a PVC pipe coupling (I think it is a 1-1/2" but not sure) matched up perfectly with the outter rim of the bearing race. This was a 1.5" to 1.5" coupling piece, not the actual pipe. Pressing the new race into the disk was as easy as placing a the PVC coupling over the top, then a small piece of wood, and tapping away with the mallet - took about 15 seconds and not much effort. Grease up the bearings, set into place, and put the disk back on. Outer bearing is similar. The key is you are not tightening down the nut at the end. Its a matter of having it tight enough that there is no play, but loose enought that it doesn't feel binding the rotation. A cotter pin keeps it in place.

This is a pretty brief explanation, and of course, someone please tell me if this is way off for the C4. It really is a simple case however of putting it back together in the reverse of taking it apart. The front is a whole different beast.

Greyhound Guy

and will bust open if you dont' put it in perfectly straight.

scrogers

The front you do need a press, my Indi mechanic had the tool that Greyhound is talking about, I believe the brand/tool name is a "Hub Shark"? That's what he showed me/referred to it as, and it's basically a mini press designed for car hubs (its pretty neat). The front took my Indi about 2ish hours and he said, "it fought him all the way." I'm not 100%, but I believe the rears are much like stevecaz is describing and do not require a press, although the rear bearings seem to go much less often then the fronts. Anyway, to do the front I'd say you'll need to look into getting that tool, or bring it to a shop as it isn't top on the list for DIY's. Good luck!

~scrogers

az100

it has to be pressed. If you have a Q the the rear needs to be pressed as well. For the most part, not a DIY. Labor @ a shop will be between 1-1.5 hours (a lot closer to one)If you have a Non Q, and are talking about the rear, then that is an easy DIY. You just pop the cap off the hub, pull the cotter pin out, remove the nut and your there. Keep in mind there are 2 bearings on each side. (an inner and an outer) They come out really easy. Use a liberal amoount of lithium based grease on the bearings, replace everything in the reverse of removal. Some kits will have new cotter pins and grease seals. Higher end ones, even have new caps and nuts. Personally, Your good with the bearings grease seal and new cotter pin.
Good Luck

tk1780

It's a 94 100 non-Q 5spd manual.

I'm also talking about the front.

Shop said a little over 2 hours, which will be $225 in labor and $100 for the bearing.

az100

you could always remove the strut assembly buy your own bearing (avg $80-$85 + or -) bring it to a shop and have it pressed in. Personally, thats alot of **** to go through. Depending on where you live, I'de say $200 + or - is what it should cost to have it done. Not $325. Mechanics are like insurance Co's. One will say $500 and another will say $225. Just because a quote is less doesn't make the mechanic inferior. BTw are you sure it's your wheel bearing? If you're considering the same mechanic who checked all your other ****, I'de be weary. How come he didn't spot the wheel bearing. On the upside, your running out of **** to replace.

Good Luck and get more quotes

DM

You can rent them from Audi parts stores like Adirondak Auto Parts. But for less than the rental I took my strut tower off and took it to a local suspension shop and they removed the old bearing and pressed a new one I supplied on for $30. After 13 years and 150k miles I think that is the way to go. You need a hydraulic press to get the old bearing out.

tk1780

When you took the strut off, did you have to compress the spring?

Also, was it difficult removing the lower control arm?

Axle is easy to remove, as is the brake caliper and rotor. I assume the tie rod end bolt is easy as well.

So that only leaves the top strut nut and lower control arm to remove and the thing should come out.

Is that right?