KaMaKaZieP -ALUMIN8-

It looks simple. i have a K&N cone filter. Now i need the piece that will bolt up to our MAF sensor. Anyone have any ideas. I was going to get a 2 inch segment of 3" pvc pipe and punt it to a 4 inch square piece of lexan (that i will eventually cut down to the shape of the MAF) and bond them together. This new K&N filter i got is strange. It has the regular cone but on the top it has a hook up for another hose to run to the bumper to make a cold air intake aswell as pulling form the engine compartment when needed.

marcogyver

because if the filter pops off it can get thrown into the belt. Even worse is if the cone were to pop off that you can suck crap up the intake. Make sure the screen is still on yor MAS.

What is the center to center of the bolt holes on the MAS. My initial thought is dryer coupling where the hose from a dryer runs through the house. I think dryer hoses are either 4 or 6" and your intake probably 2.5 to 3". Might check a high end plumbing store for ideas.

Are you seeking performance or looks/sound?

KaMaKaZieP -ALUMIN8-

Looks arent a must, and i would like to get that nice low grown form the cone filter. But mostly i want to give the air intake a boost since i replaced both of my cats with the ones from discount converter.com they used high flow cats that were designed for 5.9 l engines. My thought was well if i have two of them that means that i only have 1.4 litres going to each one. so flow is no longer restricted as they were with the stock ones. I figured i should do something to the intake to take advantage of the increased flow.

marcogyver

<center><img src="http://www.printroom.com/_vti_bin/ViewImage.dll?userid=marcogyver&amp;album_id=90212 &amp;image_id=0&amp;courtesy=1"></center><p>factory airbox is considered more constrictive, it pulls in cold air. Cold air is more dense than hot air and basically better for performance. If you weigh differences of air temp vs. resistance of air flow the K&amp;N cone filter sucking hot engine bay air should lose HP. That is why the K&amp;N panel filters or Cold Air Intakes are better. For sound and looks..K&amp;N cone.

Some will argue that the factory airbox will also outperform a CAI because of the thermal resistance of the the box. The hot engine air, especially at a stop, will radiate into the CAI pipe heating the pipe and air.

Performance and growl when you mash the pedal, explore a CAI but careful of filter placement and deep water. You should look at the option of placing the filter outside of the engine bay. Here's an example of my VW custom CAI with ceramic based paint to resist heat.

You can check the following link out. It the dyno from the factory airbox with open element.<ul><li><a href="https://www.techtonicstuning.com/dyno/Dyno07.JPG">https://www.techtonicstuning.com/dyno/Dyno07.JPG</a</li></ul>

KaMaKaZieP -ALUMIN8-

I have seen some kits for other cars putting them into the wheel well. I get nervous about that because wouldnt that be the worst place to put it for rain? What about if i fit a cone into the stock airbox but re ran the intake pipe to a section where the audi 100 foglights are supposed to be. Or even utilize that middle section inbetween the foglights for a ram air type thing. I would think if you put some sort of large funnel type thing the same shape as the front middle part of the bumper with a 3 inch pipe you would get some really great air flow.

Playerseightball

intense performance has a ceramic coated canister which can help the filter resist heat. I am considering changing my current setup (TAP1 but slightly customized by myself with integra/civic intake tube from autozone 39$). My current setup kinda looks like the one pictured except the tube would be flip-flopped so it is lower. I do want to cange mine and am considering buying a power flow filter with a Cold air canister and possibly some other misc parts to tinker with. I want to change my setup because i don't want to risk hydrolocking but I have not had any problems with it in rain...yet; I plan to alter it very soon. My second choice would be to get a same size diameter 30degree bend to attach to the tube but put a AEM bypass valve between it so that if the filter is in danger then the bypass valve lets air in because of the drop in pressure (was thinking about this too but probably going with intense performance)---with the second choice there could probably have a cold air canister from IP but I am sticking with my first choice.
Brad
Playerseightball@aol.com

marcogyver

with the air filter in the fender well you would not have problem with water. The water from the well well is isolated from the fender. For secuirity, you can always add a bypass valve. A custom plate could be made to seal the air from engine bay. Space is not an issue here! Go to a muffler shop, have them mandrell bend a 3" pipe to place the filter in the well and weld a mount for the MAS.

KaMaKaZieP -ALUMIN8-

I think i might try that. Theres a welding place in Red Bank i can go to.

beep-beep

I have put thermometer into the engine bay and found, that as long as you are moving at least 20mph, air inside is as cold as outside. On the other side the graph you have added made while car stand and the air is hot. Another thing is the fuel injection. Fuel vaporizes and cools down air.

But I agree cone filter might give you different problems:

1. It might suck water and cause the hydraulic lock.
2. The intake works as a wave resonator. This is quite important because it compresses air. Different length intake would compress air on different frequency. In some engine design, engineers use variable length intake just for these reasons. And here you are cutting the intake in the middle and attaching some cone.
3. If you stand for several minutes and then start you will start with depredated performance, because of the hot air.

KaMaKaZieP -ALUMIN8-

Ok what if i took out the pannel filter form the airbox. Took off the pipe that comes out of the bottom of the air box. Ran a couple of inches of pipe to the fender under the box and tward the wheel well and put a decent sized cone filter down there. The large volume of the airbox should allow for that variable timing and make an "air resivior" in the stock box, while allowing for the cold air to be recieved from the bottom of the engine bay. Water protection is gained because water will have a harder time getting up through the stock airbox.

Any thoughts?