neuroptic

Does anyone directions on how I can set my CO at home without the special tester in the Bently book. I do have a DMM and the allen wrench but am confused on the specifics..

oostendarp

I would like to know too please..

StormChaser404

This is for CIS-e...not CIS-e III or CIS. You should have the following toys get the (static) fuel mixture adjusted for maximum driveability:

Just for adjustment:
3 mm T-handle hex wrench
multimeter with a duty cycle range
multimeter with small mA range also (the Sunpro does not offer this!)

This work should be performed with the electrical systems off (do it between cooling fan cycles) and the cam cover vent hose clamped off.

Adjusting the basic settings on KE Jetronic requires a CO meter, really, but you can get things set without one. Two points I would like to raise here - if the car has not been "tampered" with, these setting are probably still correct and should be left alone - if the car is not running right, look elsewhere for your problems first. On the other hand, if they are set wrong, this will affect your cold starting ability since that depends on your "static" settings, and if they are way off the Control Pressure Actuator won't be able to lean or richen the mixture enough to get it to run right at all.

Here is how to set them correctly. You can do this as a check on engine operation or in conjunction with screwing up the timing to get everything to run right with your new settings.

First you hook up your meters. The current meter, set at a range that will register 0-50 mA or so, is inserted in the wires going to the control pressure actuator, using a little harness you can make or buy. When the car is at warm idle with no electrical gear running (and those pesky vent hoses clamped off!) the actuator current should "hunt" around a nominal value of 10 mA. If it does not hunt, or wander up a and down a bit around a central value, that is if it measures a consistent value, your car is not running in closed loop - something is stopping the ECU from taking over and managing the fuel system based ont he oxygen sensor output. The most likely candidates for this failure are the oxygen sensor itself, the temperature switch (in the bottom of the top radiator hose flange), general wiring chaos, or a bad ECU.

If this current is not in the correct range, it is adjusted by messing around in the little hole between the fuel distributor and the black rubber intake boot with the 3mm hex tool. There is a little set screw in there that adjusts the height of the air flow sensor plate arm, changing the relative mixture via the frequency valve. Clockwise for richer and lower CPA current, CCW for leaner and lower current. I like to work in increments of about 1/8 to 1/4 of a turn and work back and forth til I get it where it seems about right. You should remove the tool and rev the engine slightly before looking at the meter, to let the air plate settle in place. Do not rev the engine with the tool in place.

budpalumbo

You need to make a harness adapter to fit in line of the wiring to the diff. pressure regulator. Thexton makes a cheap piece, p#391. It needs modified, just cut the red wire between the connectors, hook your meter to the tag ends. The alligator clip ended wires are useless. Turn meter on and set to read milliamps. It should be ranging with an average reading of 10ma. You can make one with some wire and connectors. Unplug the dpr connector, connect a piece of wire between 1 pin on the harness, and the corresponding one on the dpr. The next wire goes between the other harness pin and one meter lead, and the opposite meter lead and the dpr. Simple design, but the thexton piece plugs in easy with no worry of touching the wires together. The car (usually) won't run unless the meter is in place and turned on.