a few questions-slow window-rough start (long)
03-29-2004, 12:03 PM
#1
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a few questions-slow window-rough start (long)
My drivers side power window is getting very slow. It seems to have plenty of power but doesn't slid very well. Has anyone replaced the felt in the window track and if so was it a pain to do, price, where to buy.
Also when I first start the coupe (when its cold) it will quit after about 5 sec if you dont keep your foot on the gas. After about 30 sec it runs fine. Would this be a ISV problem?
And finally Im going to change the transmission fluid this weekend. Is redline my best bet?
Thanks in advance.
Also when I first start the coupe (when its cold) it will quit after about 5 sec if you dont keep your foot on the gas. After about 30 sec it runs fine. Would this be a ISV problem?
And finally Im going to change the transmission fluid this weekend. Is redline my best bet?
Thanks in advance.
03-29-2004, 12:43 PM
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Think the cold start problem is....
CSV related, not ISV. CSV (cold start valve)
do a search, thinks it's been covered, but cleaning your ISV will never hurt, and is so easy, so might as well try it out if it's been a while.
Don't know about your window, unless it could be bad wirering, but if there's enough power that wont be the issue.
Have you tried lubircating the ruber sealings the window slides in?
do a search, thinks it's been covered, but cleaning your ISV will never hurt, and is so easy, so might as well try it out if it's been a while.
Don't know about your window, unless it could be bad wirering, but if there's enough power that wont be the issue.
Have you tried lubircating the ruber sealings the window slides in?
03-29-2004, 12:54 PM
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The window, all your answers, and for free!
Link to my web site and the step-by-step to replace the felt.<ul><li><a href="http://www.mongrelmotorsports.homestead.com/entry.html">Window guide how-to</a></li></ul>
03-29-2004, 12:58 PM
#4
The felt isn't TOO hard to replace if you follow Dwights instructions...
The felt will run you about $50 per side... And while you've got the door apart...lube the heck out of the wire that lifts the windows...<ul><li><a href="http://www.mongrelmotorsports.homestead.com/window.html">Dwight's Instructions for Channel Felt &/or Regulator replacement</a></li></ul>
03-29-2004, 01:09 PM
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IMO redline is the way to go...
When the tranny shop put my new(used) tranny in they just used some cheap junk from a barrel... Shifted wayyy crappy when cold. Put in redline and it is FAR improved.
03-29-2004, 02:26 PM
#7
Try lubing the moving parts of the window lift mechanism...
Something like P.B. Blaster may work wonders in there.
I agree that Redline is the way to go in the trans.
Regarding your cold start problem, I'd check the condition of the injector pray pattern at idle, especially on first start up in the morning after the fuel pressure may have bled off during the night.
Sounds to me like you're getting good spark and good cold-start-injector spray, because it is firing right up, but it just won't stay lit.
Chances are, the injectors are dirty and instead of giving you a nice fog pattern, you're getting a few "pee" streams initially. These don't atomize very nice, so it just dies. Holding your foot on the gas brings the flow to the injectors up, and the finally clean up a bit and it starts to run on it's own.
A can of good quality injector cleaner, like "BG" or "Wynn's" on about a 1/3 of a tank of gas may cure the problem. But, check all the injectors and replace their rubber O-rings while you're there so you won't have a vacuum leak later.
I agree that Redline is the way to go in the trans.
Regarding your cold start problem, I'd check the condition of the injector pray pattern at idle, especially on first start up in the morning after the fuel pressure may have bled off during the night.
Sounds to me like you're getting good spark and good cold-start-injector spray, because it is firing right up, but it just won't stay lit.
Chances are, the injectors are dirty and instead of giving you a nice fog pattern, you're getting a few "pee" streams initially. These don't atomize very nice, so it just dies. Holding your foot on the gas brings the flow to the injectors up, and the finally clean up a bit and it starts to run on it's own.
A can of good quality injector cleaner, like "BG" or "Wynn's" on about a 1/3 of a tank of gas may cure the problem. But, check all the injectors and replace their rubber O-rings while you're there so you won't have a vacuum leak later.
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