I hate to sell this.....
#1
I hate to sell this.....
<center><img src="http://i197.photobucket.com/albums/aa146/TDiVeeDub/audi1.jpg"></center><p>I hate to sell this car, one of very few left in the US in very good condition. If I was more of a mechanic, I would not sell this car.
The car was bought in Silverton, Oregon approximately one year ago. I drove the car home 2500 miles with my wife with the intention of restoring it. During the trip back to Evansville, there was not one issue with the car, drove great. Currently, I have two other project vehicles (Golf TDi / ML320), with little money left to invest in the Audi.
The bad:
The headgasket is leaking coolant. I have driven this car a total of 3000 miles including the drive back from Oregon, to which there were no issues at that time, car drove great. About five months ago after I changed the oil, thermostat, and temp. sensor I noticed coolant leaking from the headgasket.
THIS CAR HAS NOT BEEN DRIVEN WITH THE COOLANT LEAK ISSUE.
- The paint is starting to oxidize in a couple of areas
- CD works great, radio does not.
- one rear window lift motor is not working
- Odometer is not original (shows 154K)
- blemish on front driver side bumper
- A/C disconnected - have all parts
- no muffler
- needs from sway bar bushings ($120)
- differential lock was disconnected before I purchased the car
The good:
- 130K actual miles recorded by previous owners
- very clean car, well maintained
- Exterior is in very good condition (no major body damage).
- Interior is in very good, no cracks in dashboard
- rear defrost works great
- practically new Yoko tires on factory rims
- rear truck lifts installed
- K&N filter
- new headlight bulbs (Silver Stars)
- replaced washer nossles and some vac. hoses
Asking $1500 only because the car is in very good condition minus the headgasket, which if you work on cars is an easy job but very labor intensive.
You have to see this car. It is in very good condition for being over 20 years old. See pics..
The car was bought in Silverton, Oregon approximately one year ago. I drove the car home 2500 miles with my wife with the intention of restoring it. During the trip back to Evansville, there was not one issue with the car, drove great. Currently, I have two other project vehicles (Golf TDi / ML320), with little money left to invest in the Audi.
The bad:
The headgasket is leaking coolant. I have driven this car a total of 3000 miles including the drive back from Oregon, to which there were no issues at that time, car drove great. About five months ago after I changed the oil, thermostat, and temp. sensor I noticed coolant leaking from the headgasket.
THIS CAR HAS NOT BEEN DRIVEN WITH THE COOLANT LEAK ISSUE.
- The paint is starting to oxidize in a couple of areas
- CD works great, radio does not.
- one rear window lift motor is not working
- Odometer is not original (shows 154K)
- blemish on front driver side bumper
- A/C disconnected - have all parts
- no muffler
- needs from sway bar bushings ($120)
- differential lock was disconnected before I purchased the car
The good:
- 130K actual miles recorded by previous owners
- very clean car, well maintained
- Exterior is in very good condition (no major body damage).
- Interior is in very good, no cracks in dashboard
- rear defrost works great
- practically new Yoko tires on factory rims
- rear truck lifts installed
- K&N filter
- new headlight bulbs (Silver Stars)
- replaced washer nossles and some vac. hoses
Asking $1500 only because the car is in very good condition minus the headgasket, which if you work on cars is an easy job but very labor intensive.
You have to see this car. It is in very good condition for being over 20 years old. See pics..
#2
AudiWorld Super User
Indiana, huh?
Thats the car Derek sold you? I wish you would have been able to look at the 4kq up here that I told you about
Have you done a compression and leakdown test to verify the headgasket failure? My old 4000 had seepage along the head/block area ever since I had gotten it in 1999 and was like that until I sold it in 2006.
Just wanted to make sure you knew the headgasket was really bad. Would hate for you to sell it and realize it was fine.
Have you done a compression and leakdown test to verify the headgasket failure? My old 4000 had seepage along the head/block area ever since I had gotten it in 1999 and was like that until I sold it in 2006.
Just wanted to make sure you knew the headgasket was really bad. Would hate for you to sell it and realize it was fine.
#3
Re: Indiana, huh?
Yes, I did buy the car from Derek. He the type of person you want to buy a car from, excellent mechanic.
I wish I did know more about these cars. The car is running hot, coolant is put and leaks out. I am not finding coolant in the oil and have not done a compression test.
In order to do a compression test, isn't it a matter of getting a gauge and removing one of the spark plugs, getting a reading???
Again, I am not a mechanic but a fast learner. I started the car yesterday, full of coolant about 20 minutes later it was boiling out of the res.
I wish I did know more about these cars. The car is running hot, coolant is put and leaks out. I am not finding coolant in the oil and have not done a compression test.
In order to do a compression test, isn't it a matter of getting a gauge and removing one of the spark plugs, getting a reading???
Again, I am not a mechanic but a fast learner. I started the car yesterday, full of coolant about 20 minutes later it was boiling out of the res.
#6
did ya bleed the system correctly?
my 4000 had a "bad headgasket" apparently and was losing coolant.
Turned out the gasket to the neck off head was leaking and that's about it.
To find if the head gasket is leaking coolant, best way is to pressurize the coolant system (get a coolant pressure tester and pump about 10psi into the reservoir and let it hold).
If it's overheating though, might wanna pull the Thermostat out again and put it in a pot of boiling water to see if it opens. If it does, reinstall it, but not until you drill a very small hole on the surrounding flange. Position that hold at the top when reinstalling it. This will allow the system to "self bleed" a lot faster w/o running into issues with overheating due to air bubbles. Also make sure to have your heat on full hot so the heatercore gets bled as well.
Turned out the gasket to the neck off head was leaking and that's about it.
To find if the head gasket is leaking coolant, best way is to pressurize the coolant system (get a coolant pressure tester and pump about 10psi into the reservoir and let it hold).
If it's overheating though, might wanna pull the Thermostat out again and put it in a pot of boiling water to see if it opens. If it does, reinstall it, but not until you drill a very small hole on the surrounding flange. Position that hold at the top when reinstalling it. This will allow the system to "self bleed" a lot faster w/o running into issues with overheating due to air bubbles. Also make sure to have your heat on full hot so the heatercore gets bled as well.
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#8
lol... hardly...
if I were the master my 4000 would be running like a top right now and not fighting with me and triggering my knock light every 5 seconds when laying on the throttle at 14 psi. I'm back down to 6.5 psi again till I can figure it all out
#10
Head gasket
Thanks for the information guys.
"I drove this car from Oregon gosh darn it!" I think I will try to remove the head myself. I have two manuals (Haynes / Bentley). It can't be that hard.
If someone wants to drive down to Evansville, IN to help I will take care of lodging, food, and as much German Bier as you would like to drink. I make a mean Schnitzel.
Seriously,
Any takers )
"I drove this car from Oregon gosh darn it!" I think I will try to remove the head myself. I have two manuals (Haynes / Bentley). It can't be that hard.
If someone wants to drive down to Evansville, IN to help I will take care of lodging, food, and as much German Bier as you would like to drink. I make a mean Schnitzel.
Seriously,
Any takers )