Rogviler

Search eBay for the studs. There's a company on there that sells them for around $105 shipped, which is where I got mine.

The MLS headgasket is great, but you pretty much have to have the head milled perfectly flat. In fact I've heard you'll need to be able to see yourself in it. I'm old school, so I went with an OEM gasket and copper spray. You'll find a hundred different opinions about that, I'm sure. So do whatever makes you the most confident.

-Rog

Kyle94

i cant afford to have it milled flat. lol. guess im gonna have to go regular gasket. doesnt hurt me any really. just gonna have to replace the gasket everytime i take the head off... oh well.
i just was under the impression that it will blow out after a certain PSI from the boost... still a lot of mixed stories.

Rogviler

Well, you said you were going to pretty much stay stock, and stock used a paper head gasket. If you're not going to have it smoothed then probably your best bet is OEM with copper spray. The MLS gaskets are kind of iffy whether you can reuse them or not, so I wouldn't make that the deciding factor. Lots of tuner boys use OEM with copper and run insane amounts of boost through their little engines, so there's plenty of precedent out there.

Also, you can smooth the head and block yourself using something large and perfectly flat, plus some extremely fine sandpaper. Say, 1500 grit. You'll want to use a lubricant, like WD-40. And I would definitely look up a Youtube video or good writeup just so you know what you're doing. But that's as old school as it gets.

-Rog

Kyle94

Id like to stay stock as possible. was just worried about the regular stock gasket. but now that you said that, i think ill just stick to the papeer gasket with copper spray. ill just save up for the studs and call it good. and maybe get a boost guage. as i dont think i can swap the 5kqt's cluster in with the guage... tho this car has an ENTIRE interior swap from an 86' 4kq. dash, seats, etc etc.

Rogviler

Happy discovery: I found a pair of wires left over from the air conditioner system dangling by the radiator and they happened to have the larger fusebox-style wire connector on them. This is what will slip right into our BS and ILa spots on the fusebox. The BS wire from kostal #14 is done now. So our mini kostal wiring harness looks like this so far:



Given some recent unpleasantness I've had with crimp connectors, I'm soldering all my connections and adding shrink tubing. Use whatever you feel confident in.

Okay, now for ILa. I haven't decided exactly what I'm going to do with it yet. I guess I might as well hook it up to some kind of light while I'm in there, but which one has yet to be decided. Thinking of wiring it to the air conditioned button/light, for an all-in-one fault code system. Anyway, the pin we want is easy to find. If you unplug the "I" connector (red):



And then zoom in on it, it's the empty pin toward the center of the fusebox (tip of screwdriver):



That's about it for now.

-Rog

Kyle94

Neat! Closer and closer to the end.. i can't wait. that way i can start mine...

Rogviler

Whether you have the early or late wiring, you'll still have to account for the control pressure regulator, also known as the warm-up regulator.

This one is easy though. Hopefully you have saved the 4kq wiring harness, because it has a lot of useful wire and connectors on it...

I like how most of the connectors are color matched to what they plug into, so I excavated this light gray connector from the 4kq harness:



Here's which wire needs to go where:



I'm not entirely sure it matters which is which, but that's the way it's hooked up on the car.

As an aside, I've decided I'm going to run a dedicated switched line from the fuse box to run everything to inside the car. They will all go to this thing, which I'm pretty sure I snagged out of a washing machine that we were throwing away:



Anyway, continuing, since that's the plan for most of the wires, I'm going to use the black/blue wire leftover from the 4kq ECU harness (the one I pulled out from between the pedals in an above pic) and run that to the CPR/WUR. It's the same size, so it'll be easy to solder.

That's all for now, since it's currently raining for the first time ever this year. Maybe they'll lift the fire ban so I'll be allowed to weld.

-Rog

westco4K

HA! I went and welded my 280 brake ducts yesterday without even thinking about that. . . . I guess being in a garage makes it legal or something like that?? no clue. I do know we (my work) are the ONLY people allowed to use a chainsaw in the national forest right now.

Rogviler

Indoor welding is okay. I wouldn't worry about it if I wasn't right in the middle of town on a busy street. I'm sure someone would get in a tizzy about it and rat me out. But with that monsoon yesterday I certainly don't think it would do anything. Especially on gravel.

-Rog

audi-driver1126

speaking of monsoon's....I was driving down to a friends a few weeks ago and then out of nowhere it started pouring down torential rain, In other words a monsoon. The country road i was on was beginning to flood as i was driving. I hit a stream that crossed the road and my poor 4000S had to traverse right through it. I went through it at about 60 km/h (i guess thats 30 mph for you guys...) and i could hear the water washing up against the chasis. Suddenly! a few red lights lit up on the dash, but went away when i left the stream. I think my electronics went for a swim and didnt like it...

and Rog, your in colorado right? last time i watched the news i saw a massive fire was taking over peoples homes! i take it your far away from the fire? Keep those wonderfull Audi's safe!