STARTING PROBLEM 4000s

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Old 01-21-2010, 06:44 PM
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Default STARTING PROBLEM 4000s

my 87 4000s has trouble starting...it turns over just fine but is impossible to start in the cold,it also barely starts in warm/hot weather. me and my dad have tested the fuel pump,the distributor and the fuel lines and they all are fine. also the sparkplugs and starter are good too. we have also done some testing with what i believe is the cold start valve and a device on the distributor which i think is the warm up regulator (WUR). i did some work with a test light and the wires to the cold start valve work fine along with the valve itself.in my mind the little plastic device on the distributor works but recievs NO electricity through the wires when turned over(confirmed by test light). when i plug two wires directly from the battery to the positive and negative port on the device and turn the key the car will idle rough until warm......ANYBODY KNOW WHAT THIS IS?
Old 01-25-2010, 02:21 PM
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well i really have no idea what the little plastic thing you talk about is but i had the same problem with mine not too long ago. first try moving the key when you start turning it over cause the igniton switch could be bad. and if that checks out to be ok than you have a bad ignition control unit. and you probly don't know where that is. well its under your glove box so you have to take that out and its the little black box with about 8 wires comeing out of it and theres a heat sink on the bottom. after many years of starting andd runing the ceramic inside ends up cracking and when it gets cold out or really hot out the coil wont get the signal it needs to produce power. well i hope this solves your problem. good luck any questions just ask
Old 02-01-2010, 02:59 PM
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i know what the device is now. it is called the distributor pressure regulator and the problem is it is not recieving any electricity. i have hardwired it to the battery for testing and it seems to keep the car at idle but limits revvs.the starter and its components are fine.i cannot find were the wires come from and am too scared to rip the car apart. because finding parts in duncan bc canada is impossible
Old 02-19-2010, 08:08 PM
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I have the same problem right now and the ICU (black box, Ignition Control Unit) in the glove box was not the prob for me,(tried known good unit) does yours start and stall? rough idle for about 2 - 5 min and then a high idle?(1100 1200 ish) I have replaced fuel pump,(was leaking) cap, rotor, wires and plugs, not just to try to solve problem but they were just due to be done, and coil because I got sent a different cap and wire set and just happen to have 3 known good ones. (2 running cgt's and 1 engine on a stand from running cgt) Also I am in Sooke BC Canada, (on vancouver island)
Old 02-19-2010, 08:12 PM
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got cut off of comp, sorry, any news yet? some parts I have and can help you with, also I replaced lower temp sensor because it was cheap and I found it to be faulty by testing it. still not fixed on my end but with luck it will be soon, I'll keep you posted
Derrick
Old 02-22-2010, 09:26 PM
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Originally Posted by audi_man82
got cut off of comp, sorry, any news yet? some parts I have and can help you with, also I replaced lower temp sensor because it was cheap and I found it to be faulty by testing it. still not fixed on my end but with luck it will be soon, I'll keep you posted
Derrick
when you try to start my 4000 it turnes over and almost goes/or starts up and goes to about 1000 rpms then shuts off. if its hot out she will sometimes start first try but have a varying idle between 500 rpms and 1000 rpms for maybe around two-to 5 minuets idling up and down over again,and when you even tap the gas the car either turns off or goes to very low rps for about 1 second then returns to the original rpms until warm. when it is warm it idles just over 10 on the speedo when in park gear and has perfect idle in all 3 drive gears. also check for leaks in the black tube thing just in front of the battery. i had several and immeadiate healthy idle signs had shown when i patched them with jb weld.
Old 02-22-2010, 09:42 PM
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i live in duncan bc with one current audi and its engine is in poor condition currently. but have been looking for another one, not for parts but for my collection of 80's audi models. but parts are needed if you can help me in any way, even the little things like the right side indicator light and even a new antena (mine was ripped off several years ago)

what will you offer for one of your cgt's or even the engine?

thanks-Aidan manson, the closest to were you are 14 year old audi fan

here is my e-mail, contact me privately if you have anything you can help me with or maybe we can arrange a meet with my father and figure out this darn problem. i plan on fully restoring the car-no tuning and that sorta bull and hoping to have it ready by the time im 16(2 yrs)

PLEASE CONTACT ME SEPERATELY EVEN IF YOU HAVE NO OFFERS

thank you for your time
Old 02-28-2010, 06:02 PM
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Default please someone help

i am constantly looking for a fix to my cars problem (check past posts for details). a new 2.2 l straight 5 would be nice but even if you just tell me what it is for sure or what i will need i would be very greatfull.

Aidan manson

1987 audi 4000s
stone grey metalic
Old 03-07-2010, 09:00 PM
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Default D P R wiring / Power

Originally Posted by audi-driver1126
i know what the device is now. it is called the distributor pressure regulator and the problem is it is not recieving any electricity. i have hardwired it to the battery for testing and it seems to keep the car at idle but limits revvs.the starter and its components are fine.i cannot find were the wires come from and am too scared to rip the car apart. because finding parts in duncan bc canada is impossible


THe distributor pressure regulator should *always* have soem sort of power, *IF* the ECU has power.

Check that the single fuse int the row of fuse sockets along the fender side of teh fusebox is in place, and is good. (Commonly called the 'spare' fuse, becasue it really isn't a 'spare'.

It's labelled something ood under the fusebox cover, but is the highest numbered fuse I think...

<img src="http://www.sjmautotechnik.com/trouble_shooting/ecupic/fusebox.jpg">

Look in the sockets for the fuses number 23 to 28 in the above diagram. Only one will actually have a connector. THat's the fuse that has to be good, and in place for the ECU to have power, so it can control the distibutor pressure regulator.

Perhaps this diagram may hlp you understand where the wiring goes to..

<img src="http://www.humanspeakers.com/audi/images/cise.gif">

Also..

There are two brown wires attached to a stud on the intake manifold - the connection should be clean and free from corrosion, like all electrical connections. THat's where the ECU is grounded, and can cause prblems if bad.


Perhaps go over all the itmes in the link too..

http://www.humanspeakers.com/audi/tuning-cise.htm#a
Old 03-16-2010, 12:14 PM
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i have checked the fuze succesfully but it is fine and secure...also i believe my earths are fine. were is the ECU or whateaver you call it?. i have found a black boxy thing under the passenger side glovebox it had a large plug with a few wires connected to it and it was unplugged. so i connected it again but i couldt tell if it made anything better.obviously didt help with the warming up crap.the box i believe only had one plug and maybe a wire or to going to it?

idk how to get a video on here or if u can so i will just put a video on youtube shortly showing me starting it and showing you guys some things on the car


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