brick8

I am going to check out a 1990 200Q tomorrow with 140,000 miles on it. Is there anything model-specific I should be checking? Are these pretty decent DIY cars? Any thoughts much appreciated.

Pushbutton_auto

The check list.

1.- Check all four windows for operation from driver door and individual doors, both directions.
2.- Check rear lateral view mirrors from passenger door
3.- Check central locking systems all doors with release from front passenger and driver doors respectively.
4.- Open trunk.. check for interior light, evidence of water/rust under carpet, availability of tools, spare (small) and jack (special Audi)
5.- In trunk check for condition of rear speakers and/or presence of CD/Amplifier.
6.- Turn radio on (ignition off) check operation of automatic antenna (up down at least 5 cycles)
7.- Open hood bring hood down to 5 inches from closed position, release without pushing or throwing. Hood should latch both sides.
8. - Reopen hood visually check driver side of block for presence of oil. Check surface of area where car normally parks ( home garage, dealer lot ) for evidence of drips, spills or other indications of fluid leaks.
9.- Visually check levels of fluids in following reservoirs. Windshield washers, Hydraulic systems -this one is very important -(brake/power steering ( Pentosin is fluid )), brakes (brake fluid), engine coolant.
10.- Check condition and flexibility of all possible hoses big, long , short and small. Specially critical are turbo to intercooler and intercooler to intake manifold. Hoses related to PVC systems should not be flat or mushy.
11.- Check visually all electrical connectors for presence of metal retaining clip.
12.- Carefully check for cracks with hand contact all visible & reachable rubber boots, special attention to steering rack and CV joints.
13.- Request info and data on timing belt and water pump replacement. date & mileage.
14.- Data on brake rotors, calipers/pads. Purging/flushing of brake fluid.
15.- Under car (suggest strongly to inspect) Presence of oil around turbo specially in the piping to an from oil cooler. Likewise for water hoses for turbo cooling ( turbo functioning to be checked later)
16.- Complete the hand and visual inspection of CV joint boots (inner and outer)
17.- Using trouble light inspect for oil leaks the front and rear parts of crankcase for main bearing seals condition.
18.- Visually inspect exterior of centre muffler, catalytic converter, rear resonator and all hanging points including rubber hangers.
19.- Check each wheel individually for visible condition of rotor, brake cylinder, calliper and thickness of pads. Special attention to condition of electrical connectors for pad wear and ABS sensing.
20.- Get into driver seat... Do not start engine !
21.- Turn ignition on check for OK readout display of Autocheck system. Place computer selector to read boost pressure (bar) and check for 0.9 bar read out. Check for following lights to be on: Engine check small engine and Anti lock brakes in yellow Batt, Seat Belt in Read Apply emergency brake to lock Red light should come on (Brake) Open doors sequentially door light should come on (red) When opening driver door with ignition key in lock beeping alarm should sound
22.- Place sustained pressure to brake pedal hold and ...
22.- Start engine, check for oil pressure light coming on and turning off in less than two seconds, brake pedal should give slightly as hydraulic pressure reaches booster cylinder (good signal).
23.- Check idle speed with climate control in economy position at least 800 to 850 rpms
24.- Slowly rotate steering to full lock left and full lock right, hold position at full lock for 20 seconds, pump brake pedal rapidly for 6 or 7 times and hold, check for auto check system (brake) light blinking if not... very good... release everything...
25.- Slowly depress accelerator pedal until 3000 rpm is reached release suddenly check for delayed decay of RPM's to 800 (slower that return of pedal)
26.- Allow engine to idle, set air conditioner temperature to 75 and to AUTO, listen for clicking noise from compressor clutch energizing set back to ECON and back to Auto 3 or 4 times, idle speed should remain fairly steady ( good)
27.- Operate sun roof as follows (assume roof is closed) Press forward side of switch and HOLD, roof should open at an angle and stop. release switch. Press back side of switch and hold, roof should close and STOP. release switch . Press back side of switch and hold... roof should travel to back to fully open and stop without any loud clicking noise. It did good . release switch. Press forward side of switch and HOLD... roof should fully close without stopping and without continuing to open position. Release switch. Do not over exercise sun roof without adequate lubrication !!! just test it 2 times.
28 .- Engage reverse gear and slowly very slowly release clutch and brake pedals ( objective is to move car about 2 or 3 inches ( do not rev engine more than 1200 rpm's) Have girlfriend from outside of car observe forward tires for vibration ( visible and noticeable ) while clutch pedal is released and tires try to move 2 to 3 inches. If wheels vibrate clutch remedies in the future may be necessary. It is also possible that a caliper or calipers are sticking ( not to bad to fix )
29.- Switch on board computer to MPG reading, read out should be: 21.o to 23.0 if driving in city all time with air cond on 23.0 to 25.0 combined city and some road highway driving. 25.0 to 28.0 Mostly highway with air 28.0 to 31.5 all highway w/o air and properly tuned ( maybe a little lean) oxygen sensor crying in despair. Above readings assume car not overloaded and inflation pressure OK.

Print it out, take it with you and do the whole check sheet, that will freak them out.

brick8

Thanks, I will do so. The seller is about 50 miles away, hope to get there tomorrow. Price is $1,400 with 141,000 miles.

qpower

price sounds good just make sure the steering rack is okay if not figure on $1200 to have it replaced