Any advice on what to do to reinstall an AC unit? Should I rebuild or buy a new compressor?
#1
Any advice on what to do to reinstall an AC unit? Should I rebuild or buy a new compressor?
When I put the engine back in my 5K I never bothered to reinstall the air conditioning because the front vents in the dash wouldn't open. Still haven't fixed that but the weathers getting hotter and rolling the windows down isn't cutting it. I still have my AC compressor but im told I cant get a refill kit for it anymore and a rebuild is all I can do. The rebuild kit looks daunting. Any ideas?
#2
Re: Any advice on what to do to reinstall an AC unit? Should I rebuild or buy a new compressor?
buy a rebuilt off ebay. Don't buy a used one. Do you have a vacuum pump? Are you converting to R134a or do you have access to R12?
#3
Re: Any advice on what to do to reinstall an AC unit? Should I rebuild or buy a new compressor?
As far as I know everything was working before I took the compressor off. It was just low on coolant. I just wanted to know about converting it to r134a.
#4
Re: Any advice on what to do to reinstall an AC unit? Should I rebuild or buy a new compressor?
<center><img src="http://pictureposter.audiworld.com/84001/2b.jpg"></center><p>try FREEZE 12, i had converted to it and my A/C blows ice cold...better that the new (2005)intrepid i have. do a search on e-bay for it ... you will find kits relatively inexpensive. it works better than 134 on older cars.
#5
freeze 12
i added freeze 12 directly in with whatever r12 was left in the system without pulling a vacuum and it still blows ultra cold (okay, it does take about 5 minutes to get there) for the past 2 years. r12 uses standard r12 fittings.
#6
I have converted several Audis to 134A........
If your old compressor was working fine before removal,then it should work again. To use a refrigerant other than R-12, you will need to purge the old lubricant from the system, then suggest since that you have had the system apart, that you install a new condensor/dryer. Also, switch to a variable orifice tube. The variable does a better job when using 134A, as it will produce better cooling when engine is at an idle, such as at a stop light. Snug up all fittings as tight as you can. I tried using torque setting recommended, but refrigerant still leaked out. 134 molucule is smaller then R-12, so it is easier to leak out of the system. If using 134, you will need to switch to either PAG or Ester oil for system lubrication. Ester is easier to work with, so I use it.
If I look back through my files, I can proly get you the part number for the variable orifice tube. It is well worth its cost of about $25. Be glad to get it, if it will help you.
If I look back through my files, I can proly get you the part number for the variable orifice tube. It is well worth its cost of about $25. Be glad to get it, if it will help you.
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