Turbo 200

A previous owner of this '90 Turbo 200 [automatic] had axle work done and the passenger side axle requires a 10mm triple square bit for removal, while the drivers side axle has 8mm [internally recessed to accept bit] hex bolts. Both side's bolts are externally round/knurled and appear the same external diameter.

I am replacing with new axle assemblies on both sides.

What recommendations & caveats are offered to stay out of trouble here ?

With the car front elevated, and the auto transmission in neutral can I simply turn the wheel to freely access each side, then put back in gear to remove the axle bolts ?

Will the axles then "pull out" of the wheels, without further ado, if there's space to do so ?

I assume I should replace the bolts. Where might I get a good price on them and what is the correct description ?

Are there any caveats about inserting the new axles into the wheels/transmission ?

Bolts torque ?

Any final recommendations, when done ?

Most gratefully,
Courtney

RussB

Check with your vendor.

Inner CV boot kits include a set of six new bolts to bolt up to the diff output flange; outer CV boot kits include a new axle nut.

The axle nut on the 5000s should be replaced. Not sure about the 200, which may have axle bolts.

Removing the axles on the 5000 automatics is a bigger PITA than on the manual trannies because you'll prolly need to unbolt the sway bar and replacing everything afterward requires a long strong lever / pry bar. If your car uses axle bolts (and not nuts) you may be able to remove the axle without dropping the sway bar since the axles will be shorter. Check a shop manual.

To remove the inner CV bolts I like to temporarily screw the wheel bolts back into the hub/disc and use a long pry bar wedged against one or two of them and the ground so that the axle won't turn when I apply torque to the inner CV bolts. Or you can use an impact wrench -- but this is living dangerously.

Having at least one each 3/8" and 1/2" drive 24" extension will be almost a necessity. A couple shorter extensions and flex joints will be handy.

Make certain that you use the correct socket for each bolt. Caveat: a 10mm Allen will fit into a 10mm triple square bolt and seem okay but will strip out the splines in the bolt head. (Ask how I know this.)

I like to poke a worklight through the hole in the inner fender through which the tie rod runs and use this light to illuminate the CV joint flange. Clean each bolt with brake cleaner or similar solvent to make sure that its splines are clean. Use a flashlight to examine each inner CV bolt to make sure that you have your socket fully seated in it before you apply torque.

On the 5000s, removing the axle nuts requires either a long strong breaker bar and lots of torque or a size huge impact wrench. Make sure that you torque the new axle bolt or nut to spec (~ 200 lb-ft) with a torque wrench when you're done.

Good luck.

Will Ng

If you're doing this job alone.....

1. putting an automatic in gear makes no difference if the wheels are off the ground, one wheel will turn in the other direction.

2. the hex bolts used were a low cost shortcut. Hex bolts tend to strip and aren't recommended. If you must use them, be sure to replace after each removal. The triple square bolts are available at your VW/Audi parts counter. They are very well hardened and can be torqued safely. My Lyle bit began to strip before the bolts. Torque is 66 ft-lbs.

3. To begin, have the wheels on the ground, pop off each wheel's center cap and simply loosen the axle bolt. The axle bolt is recommended to be replaced each time by Audi. Torque is ~158 ft-lb.

4. jack up car, place on jackstands.

5. as Russ recommends, I also like to use two lug bolts and a long bar to jam the axle from turning using the ground. Loosen and remove all the inner CV joint triple square bolts. (Hex bolts on one side, in your case) Remove the axle bolts.

6. place floor jack onto front swaybar and support it. Loosen and remove the front swaybar mounts. Lower the swaybar to untension it.
Once the swaybar is unmounted, it's a one-man job .
The axle can't be remove without the spindles free to pivot.

7. Loosen and remove the lower ball joint pinch bolts. These must be replaced, and with hardened and shouldered equivalent bolts. The shoulder keeps the ball joint attached to the spindle!

8. Carefully pry out the ball joint stud from the spindle. The spindle is free to pivot outward and away from the axle's outer CV joint. Remove the axle from the spindle, and pry the inner CV joint from the tranny flange.

9. Drop the axle out and reverse procedure to install.

Good luck.