Adam Mowafy

How many of you have done this?

what were the symptoms that drove you to do it?

I think mine might be out of adjustment?

How do I do this and how do I know which way to adjust it?


Thanks....sorry for the barrage of questions But I'm really getting pissed off at being stuck at the light because my shifter wont go into gear!!! I've noticed that when 1st gear is hard to get into, all other gears are bieng bitches as well? Must be out of adjustment?

It seems that if I try to force it into another gear, and then try 1st, it will go in?


Thanks,
Adam

devil's advocate

That is one thing that would make it hard to get into gear unless you are rolling. your linkage may make the gears harder to find if it is loose and sloppy, but ultimately it shouldn't make it hard to get into gear. If your clutch drags slightly, even if it not enough to move the car it can be enough to keep it from going into gear easily unless you are rolling. When you are rolling the syuchronizers can do their job and enable you to get it into gear. Unfortunately the old-school test to see if your clutch releases completely (let it out in nuetral, push down the clutch, give it a few seconds for spin-down, and then engage reverse, if it grinds you've got a problem) doesn't work because our reverse gear is sychronized. So it would be difficult to confirm that the clutch releases completely. Possible causes would be a weak master or slave, or a warped/defective/damaged pressure plate or clutch disk. By the way I don't remember your linkage being out of wack. I would strongly suspect the clutch, it may just need to be bled again or adjusted since the you put in the new master.

sk88erguy

That is funny cause i was thinking last night going to bed, it might be the clutch.

Toxcheap

Was it okay before you worked on the car?
Just need a little more info to help you.
Later

Adam Mowafy

No its been like this since I bought the car. But it's been getting worse ove rtime. DA makes a good piont about the clutch not fully disengaging. That would makes sense. When it is hard to get into 1st, its hard in all gears but first is the worst. I'm wondreing if my slave is weak?

Clutch and pressure plate are new, master is new.

Slave was never replaced

What do you think?



Thanks,
Adam

Toxcheap

Maybe there is still some bleeding needed. And that's why it's not fully engaging. Bleeding it can be a PIA sometimes. Can't remember if you have to pressure bleed it or not. I know on the quantum syncro's you had too or you'd never get a good pedal.
HTH

Will Ng

People have had the most luck forcing clean fluid into the slave bleed nipple and pushing the air out the top of the MC.

Adam Mowafy

About your clutch vbration:

How long has it been like that?
I just want to get some idea of how long I can keep using it like this.


Thanks,
Adam

Will Ng

The Sachs clutch kit was installed New Year's 2002.
I brought my car back to the shop that did the job, but the owner said there was nothing wrong.

The 200q didn't do this before the replacement.

I haven't yet tried new engine mounts yet. But every other piece of bushing/mount has been replaced.

It has been a thorn in my side ever since. I hang a copy of the ETKA parts diagram of the clutch/tranny at work to remind me that if you want it done right, you do it yourself.
:-\

shortyq

The procedure I use in Rally service (in the shop I use a pressure bleeder) is to pump up the clutch pedal about 30 times, then release the slave bleed. This burps the last of the air out of a reluctant Slave. To avoid this being a major PITA, the best thing to do is to work a bit of brake fluid into the slave and master before installing.

Adam, did you get the flywheel cut? If not, it could be out of spec.

HTH

Scott Justusson