daves745t

Been diagnosing a no-start issue on my '90 V8Q. With help for folks here I'm confident that it is the infamous Crank Position Sensor and/or Engine Speed Sensor (same part). Figured I'd just replace both b/c it's a PITA to do and if one's failing the other ain't far behind.

So I ordered them from ECS Tuning, decent price (about $125). Website showed they were in stock and ready to ship which was important as I really want/need to get this done this weekend.

Placed the order on Monday and paid for expedited shipping to make sure I'd get it. Anyway, I get a call from them late Tuesday or early Weds (I didn't pick up the message until Weds afternoon) that the price of the part has increased to $190!! But they will sell it to me for what they purport to be their cost of $160... Gee thanks.

I called and asked them to honor the price I purchased them for. I said that the parts were listed as being in stock so even assuming they are being truthful it's not like they paid $160 for the parts that were already in stock. Well, they still refused. I told them I thought that was bad business and canceled the order. I found it somewhere else for $123 but it still sucks b/c I won't get the parts until Monday so thanks ECS, you just lost a customer forever.

yodasfro

Ebay is your friend.

Kneale Brownson

I bought some of those sensors for a 5k for $49 off Fleabay. Only difference is the length of the wire.

MarkPan

I don't see why you'd need to change them both. One counts, the other really doesn't.

if the one on the pin stops, car doesn't run. If the one on the teeth stops - the tach quits working. bfd.


$190 is stupid though, I thought the stealer charged less than that.

Kneale Brownson

You need a good signal from both those sensors to tell the ECU it's OK to permit ignition.

You need the speed sensor, the one that counts teeth, to continue sending a good signal for the ECU to continue permitting ignition.

The one reading the pin on the flywheel only needs to operate properly for intial ignition.

MarkPan

I don't believe that's correct, I'm quite certain that all you need for spark is the crank pin sensor, and the hall sensor in the distributor. (there's an AND gate in the ECU, when they're both active it gets a pulse).
I'm pretty sure i've driven around with just the one sensor in the past, with a dead tach.

Kneale Brownson

There have been a number of reports of the engine dying when the speed sensor failed.