ignition switch R&R
#1
ignition switch R&R
aparently i have to take apart the dash to do this on my 86 5ktq.
i don't have a bently, and i don't want to pay 200 to have my mechanic take care of this.
anyone BTDT?
what i really want is for someone to walk me through it.......
someone mentioned that it probly needs to be re-wired, but i'm really not sure what to do.
as of now i have to push start the car, before it was a war getting the starter to engage.....
TIA.
chris
i don't have a bently, and i don't want to pay 200 to have my mechanic take care of this.
anyone BTDT?
what i really want is for someone to walk me through it.......
someone mentioned that it probly needs to be re-wired, but i'm really not sure what to do.
as of now i have to push start the car, before it was a war getting the starter to engage.....
TIA.
chris
#2
If you're talking about the electrical part is comes out though the cluster...
Pull the wheel, the combination switch, then the cluster. The switch is right there in the opening. One or two (I forget) grub screws hold it to the lock. Sounds like more work then it is, good luck with it.
#3
Re: If you're talking about the electrical part is comes out though the cluster...
E-mail me direct if you like, don't have a lot of time at the moment. Wheel removal is straight forward. Pull the pad from its snap fittings, disconnect the horn wire, remove the large nut (I believe it is 23mm) pull the wheel straight off. Loosen clamp(s) on multi function switch, pull toward end of column. Complete removal would be better, the wires disconnect as is obvious. Remove two screws at top of panel which enter the pad. Disconnect speedometer cable at transmssion. Remove instrument dluster. It is a press fit and literally pulls out. Getting a grip may be a problem. The switch is mechanical/electrical. The components separate as is obvious. To remove the mechanical lock from the column, you will find a set/grub screw under a spot of "wax", it is necessary to trmove the sealer to find the screw. It is an allen head, I believe 3mm. With that removed, the rest is up to you. Usually, some large amount of manipulation is necessary to place it in a position where it can be removed. The usual problem is in the junction between the mechanical and electrical portions. Either the "teat" om the mechanical lock is broken and will not ooperate the switch, or, the "slot" it fits into in the electrical portion is enlarged or otherwise broken. Do not be deceived if the mechaical portion seems to be intact, check closely. I have done this on both a 5K and a 200. This is from memory so there may be slight errors. The 200 has considerably less space under the dash and necessiates dislodging the steering column to "easily" access the switch.
#4
i caved : she's now in the hands of a very competent tech
thanks tom.
after consulting many wise sources, i decided that this was one job best left to professionals. so now my baby is at the shop getting the real treatment.
in adition to the ignition, he's gonna put in my new (used) ISV and make sure everything is lovely.
thanks for the help!
after consulting many wise sources, i decided that this was one job best left to professionals. so now my baby is at the shop getting the real treatment.
in adition to the ignition, he's gonna put in my new (used) ISV and make sure everything is lovely.
thanks for the help!
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