AudiSport4000

I suppose its time for an update. Today I did some work on the vac lines and intercooler piping. I found numerous small vac lines that werent tightened down, so I took care of those, replaced some, and put clamps on all those connections. I also added a fitting at the elbow for the intake elbow to the turbo for a vac line, which the bentley has. I made sure all lines on the MC motor went to their respective places.
There are still some stock 4kq lines that come out of the pass fender that are OPEN and not being used. I figure its safe to leave them there like so since no vac lines from the motor are connected with them. I only have the brake booster line hooked into the rear of the intake manifold. Thats the only vac line (minus cruise control tube) thats hooked up to the stock 4kq stuff.
Now I turned to the intercooler piping, mainly the situation between the turbo outlet and intake manifold. I had a Saab piece in there, but I tore that out. I took the stock 5ktq metal pipe (long, bends in the middle) and cut it so that it would fit inbetween the MM hose and "J" hose at the turbo outlet. I thought for sure that would take care of any vac leaks. Before I tried to start the car, I lifted the metering plate and cranked the ignition on a few times, to get some fuel in the combustion chambers. I then tightened down the igloo and prayed that the car would start. Just like it has, it will start then die. After a few tries it doesnt do much of anything but crank and occassionally catch. So that sucks.
After I gave up (a bit ago) I checked the hose from igloo to turbo. The part where it meets the igloo was kind of off, but I was positive I made sure it was tight.

So, I dunno what to do now. Ive tried what I can as far as vac lines go, and that intercooler tubing. I'll see if my father has a vac gauge that I can hook up somewhere on the IM. The motor cranks over kinda slow, definately not as fast as my 4k does. I do have to jump the car every time I wanna start it though, due to the battery being pretty much toast. And yeah, a new one is going to be purchased.
Could anything at all with the fuel distributor be my problem? Im not quite sure what else could be going on.

Black-Wolf

you got one side of the turbo ok, now how about the igloo to the turbo hose? you can have a small vac leak and it will still start. Now something you may have missed...
I recently swapped the entire fuel dist. from my 90 200 mc2 to my 89 200 mc2... should be direct swap right? wrong. car acted just like yours is.. I adjusted the 3mm CO2 adjuster screw to the rich about 1/2 to 3/4 turn.. viola it started then adjusted the duty cycle once it was running and warm as per specs.

AudiSport4000

Are you referring to the idle screw on the throttle body? Thats one thing I havnt touched yet.

Ah, or do you mean the mixture adjustment on the fuel distributor itself? I assume you mean that. Im not familiar with how to properly set the mixture to a leaner/richer setting. Maybe some help?

boxerfan

I have been playing with the CO adjustment screw. It is sensitive and a small adjustment can lead to stalling and great difficulty starting. cw turns will richen the mixture through the entire rpm range. ccw will lean the mixture.

I'd leave the idle adjutment on the TB. Adjust the CO and keep trying. I'd lean it out first. KEEP TRACK OF HOW MANY TURNS! WQrite it down because after enough fiddling it is easy to lose track. I'd go by approx 1/3 turn of the CO screw each time. If you have not adjusted the TB idle screw you will probably be able to get the car to idle properly with delicate adjustment of the CO and this will mean you will be nearly perfect.

AndrewsQuattros

Prove me wrong buy usually engines need more fuel than less to crank over? I wouldnt think it's overfueling, although come to think of it the plugs may be wet from priming the system. You should pull one to see Mike, if #1 is wet then clean it and the rest of the 4. And yes, please mark how much you turn the screw! If that is the problem and the thing fires, I'll be realll happy 4 you ;0

boxerfan

I've found during my experimentation that it is easier to start lean than rich. I think this is due to the CSV.

AudiSport4000

Physically what happens inside the fuel distributor that makes the mixture richen/lean out? Just curious.

Now heres something that really makes me wonder about the plate movement. I was just at the junkyard this morning and visited a few cars that I had taken parts off of before (B3 90 5cyl, and 4k 4cyl). I decided to check the plate movement on each car. BOTH were no doubt MUCH easier to lift up than my plate, bar none. I could take one finger and press against the middle screw and lift it up. My plate is much more difficult for some reason.
Ideas?

boxerfan

Adjustment screw controls the threshold of movement of the control pressure pin in the middle of the dizzy. As this pin rises more of the 'slot' is available for fuel to flow through. As you crank it down the effect it to raise the pin and increase the fuel flow.

Black-Wolf

it moves easy in a junk car because theres no fuel in it.

boxerfan

So? Any luck? Any joy?