onfir3

So basically the audi dealership is trying to give me a load of crap, I think. Basically they don't know whats wrong but heres the deal. The car starts, and idles/runs like ****. They think its the fuel dist. but can't test it, and believe it just cuts out at random causing poor idling. also the elbow and a breather hose are cracked and they said unless its replaced the car won't run right anyway. They want some 150 for the elbo, 50 for the breather, 850 for the fuel dist and then like 500 in labor.. but as it stands its a 150$ bill. I'm trying to get the car back so I can mess with it more. Any idea where to start next? I can get a fuel dizzy and replace it myself, but will that even help much?

Quattrotrac

That said...first thought is basic tune-up stuff, but if thats all done...go to the fuel pump and/or WUR. I don't think you need a whole new distributor. Generally, the WUR doesn't need maintenance, I think, but owners report clogging happens every now and then. Can you pull codes?

WUR should be on top of the fuel distributor. Do a fuel pressure test. If it comes back low, i'd think it's the WUR; warm-up regulator. Either that or you're leaking fuel.

That "elbow" could also be part of the cause...so replacing that is a good idea too. Don't buy parts from the dealer unless you have to. Search the forum, you'll find better A/M suppliers. The guys on this forum can easily locate one for you. Most of the members on the forum are parting out an Audi or two....

Stay away from the dealer.... please?

onfir3

Yea, I really hate them, and I really don't think they understand our cars here, anyway. I'll try to get it back home next week, pay them the fee to look at it, and just give them a giant finger pretty much.. I'm pissed at em. oh well ya know? Oh, and so I have done plugs wires and air filter, and the problem started while doing the air filter. took all the stuff out, put it in, and it wouldn't work right. May have bumped something sensitive no? fuel filter probably needs 2 be done though, and anything else I can't think of.

boxerfan

Things near there that may have been broken in the process...

- WOT/Idle switch
- Air temp sensor
- O2 sensor wires
- Connectors to fuel dizzy

Who did the air filter? If they did make them check this stuff and have a look yourself before they mess with it.

qpower

the elbow and any other old vac hoses will cause your symptoms, check them all it really could be that simple

4000skq

maybe the hose for the decel valve kinda under the fender, gave me some trouble when I put my 87 tq back together.

onfir3

ALso, They said a "block Breather Hose" was bad? I'm sorta confused on that, so I have to wait till I pick it up to figure that one out. On top of that my trip home has made me broke, Sorta gotta wait till my settlement is done to get some of my money back.. (like that'll happen soon..) but whatever, I'll try and get it home next week and see what I can do from there, thanks all.

SteveAngry

It goes from the driverside of the engine crankcase and connects to a metal tube that runs up to the trihose near the ISV on top of the valve cover.

A cracked one of these will cause a vacum leak.

A rotted collapsed one will cause lack of crankcase venting.

Steve
Michigan

Mister Bally

I remember one time when I had just about given up on my 5000cs tq. It sometimes would start but mostly it wouldn't. When it started, The it idled and ran like ****. Finally, no start so I let it sit for 4 months as I had other vehicles. One warm winter day, I tried it and it started! I drove it to a dealer I trust 100%; Howard Cooper in Ann Arbor Michigan and dropped it off on a weeked and signed a workorder authorizing $200 to diagnose it. When they called me Monday afternoon, they commented they only have one tech familiar with the "older" models...this was in 2004! He adjusted the air/fuel ratio to get it to start reliably. It still idled kind of rough though. They said that the vehicle has a cracked exhaust manifold and that would have to be replaced to continue troubleshooting further. They also said that there were oil leaks from the front crank bearing/seal and that should be replaced as well. Estimate was $1800 and they suggested replacing the vehicle. I agreed but did not want to give up just yet.

When I went to pick it up paying only $85 for the air/fuel adjustment & diagnosis, I asked to speak to the technician. He said that the poor idle is likely a vacuum leak. We both agreed that it was not the "Michelin Man" hose though. He suggested I remove and check each rubber hose and I will probably find one with a crack. He said he has to connect his exhaust gas analyzer to do any further work but cant due to the exhaust manifold crack.

I found the three way hose connected to the valve cover port to be the culprit. The crack was hidden on the bottom and would open & close depending on the temperature. $18 for the part.

Oh, I did the old Campbells soup can repair to the exhaust manifold using three large stainless steel hose clamps. It worked well. Had I had known the secret "remove the cylinder head" trick, I would have replaced the manifold properly.

I just learned to live with the oil leaks. Thank goodness for cat litter for the driveway!

audiqv8

The arm which control the air flow plate is inside the air filter box. Did you get the right filter? Is the filter interfering with the arm which control the air flow plate? Maybe this is why the delaership thinks you need a new fuel dizzy.

I would remove the filter and see if you could raise the arm which is attached to the air flow plate. I would also leave the filter out and see how the car runs.