still overheating :(
10-20-2004, 08:08 PM
#13
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Re: turns fine, like I said it kicked on for afterrun too.
It sounds like you've lost a ground to the fan sender circuit, as well as ground to the turn signals. I assume one of the pins in the fan sender plug supplies ground to the sender, since it screws into plastic.
Check for ground at the plug with an ohmmeter. I assume one of the wires should be brown.
As for the turn signals, first check at the bulb, remove it and probe the socket. When the turn signals are off, both wires should read GND. One wire is brown for constant GND. The other swings to +12V when active. If you get GND reading on both wires, start looking near the flasher circuit under the dash. I bet a ground wire came loose somewhere and possibly this wire also supplies GND for the sender.
HTH and good luck.
Check for ground at the plug with an ohmmeter. I assume one of the wires should be brown.
As for the turn signals, first check at the bulb, remove it and probe the socket. When the turn signals are off, both wires should read GND. One wire is brown for constant GND. The other swings to +12V when active. If you get GND reading on both wires, start looking near the flasher circuit under the dash. I bet a ground wire came loose somewhere and possibly this wire also supplies GND for the sender.
HTH and good luck.
10-20-2004, 08:10 PM
#14
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Re: turns fine, like I said it kicked on for afterrun too.
Sounds like a plan. Gotta work something out, have a 2 hour drive friday into the mountains and it's supposed to snow, no way I'm taking the turbo miata up in that shiz.
Can I find the sender by following the wires from the fan?
Can I find the sender by following the wires from the fan?
10-20-2004, 08:31 PM
#16
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Re: turns fine, like I said it kicked on for afterrun too.
I thought you already tested at the sender. What is this 3-pin plug you mentioned then?
On the radiator, next to the lower neck, should be the fan sender(sensor). It activates the 2nd and 3rd speeds. Since it's screwed into plastic, there must be a source wire for input. I assume it's GND switched. The other two wires, one will go to the 2nd speed relay (should be 2nd relay from the left in the fuse box), the other to the high speed relay under the dash/kick panel.
I think it's residing next to the ISV controller.
Take a multimeter and probe these wires and relay sockets.
Once again, relay socket designations:
30: voltage source or supply
87: output when activated
87a: output at rest
85: relay coil input1
86: relay coil input2
30: should be +12V hot always
87: should have continuity to fan +12V input wire, or to 2nd speed resistor input if you are probing the 2nd speed relay.
87a: should be un-used, either open or GND.
85/86: one of these should have continuity with a wire from the fan sender plug.
The other should be switched +12V, probably from the ignition switch.
BTW, also check your load reduction relay. It disconnects power to most high drain circuits during starting. If your wipers work, HVAC work, then it's probably not the problem.
But then again, it's an Audi.
On the radiator, next to the lower neck, should be the fan sender(sensor). It activates the 2nd and 3rd speeds. Since it's screwed into plastic, there must be a source wire for input. I assume it's GND switched. The other two wires, one will go to the 2nd speed relay (should be 2nd relay from the left in the fuse box), the other to the high speed relay under the dash/kick panel.
I think it's residing next to the ISV controller.
Take a multimeter and probe these wires and relay sockets.
Once again, relay socket designations:
30: voltage source or supply
87: output when activated
87a: output at rest
85: relay coil input1
86: relay coil input2
30: should be +12V hot always
87: should have continuity to fan +12V input wire, or to 2nd speed resistor input if you are probing the 2nd speed relay.
87a: should be un-used, either open or GND.
85/86: one of these should have continuity with a wire from the fan sender plug.
The other should be switched +12V, probably from the ignition switch.
BTW, also check your load reduction relay. It disconnects power to most high drain circuits during starting. If your wipers work, HVAC work, then it's probably not the problem.
But then again, it's an Audi.
10-20-2004, 08:36 PM
#17
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Re: turns fine, like I said it kicked on for afterrun too.
I'm sorry, yes, I jumpered it at the sender already. I'll check for voltage and test the grounds too.
10-21-2004, 02:23 AM
#18
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Had a chance to check things out a little...
there is no power to the fan relay under the hood, second from the left.
My wipers do not work
My signals do not work, but my hazards do.
To get the fan running I ran a wire from the foglight relay to the center terminal on the fan controler, fan works with the headlights on now
My alternator seems to have dropped offline, I started the car and saw abuot 13.5 volts, then it seems to have shutdown and the bat/brake/abs-off lights came on, not sure if I blew a fuse or something....
so in summary, heeeeeeeeeeeeelp
it sounds like it could be the wire that kills the wipers and fans for start, but the climate control works.
Sitting in the driveway idling I can maintain a perfect temp by switching the fan on and off. The wipers even started to work briefly, then quit! ARGH.
The alternator came back online, but the lights/radio buzzer stopped working.
My wipers do not work
My signals do not work, but my hazards do.
To get the fan running I ran a wire from the foglight relay to the center terminal on the fan controler, fan works with the headlights on now
My alternator seems to have dropped offline, I started the car and saw abuot 13.5 volts, then it seems to have shutdown and the bat/brake/abs-off lights came on, not sure if I blew a fuse or something....
so in summary, heeeeeeeeeeeeelp
it sounds like it could be the wire that kills the wipers and fans for start, but the climate control works.
Sitting in the driveway idling I can maintain a perfect temp by switching the fan on and off. The wipers even started to work briefly, then quit! ARGH.
The alternator came back online, but the lights/radio buzzer stopped working.
10-21-2004, 06:09 AM
#20
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Bottom of radiator should be fan thermal switch
Its a thermal switch with 2 wires going to it. One wire will feed it 12V and the other wire is a 12V output that goes to a relay. The circuit is closed when the water temp reaches a certain point. The closed circuit triggers the relay and turns on the fan.
To rig up a on/off switch. "T" into each wire going to that thermal switch and run those two wires to a flip switch rated for about 5 amps. If your relays and such are working, then it'll be a nice backup system without compromising the original wiring layout.
If its a plastic radiator you might have a 3rd wire which is ground. Don't short ground to +12V you'll blow stuff. Use a Multimeter to check the wire for ground. Ground wires are usually Brown.
James
To rig up a on/off switch. "T" into each wire going to that thermal switch and run those two wires to a flip switch rated for about 5 amps. If your relays and such are working, then it'll be a nice backup system without compromising the original wiring layout.
If its a plastic radiator you might have a 3rd wire which is ground. Don't short ground to +12V you'll blow stuff. Use a Multimeter to check the wire for ground. Ground wires are usually Brown.
James