Warm start problem ...
#1
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Warm start problem ...
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Hey Guys the Audi has been running great ... we have had some snow. I've
been able to fill my gas tank up all the way ...wow . I received a fuel pump from a
guy in NY so I will be putting that in on the weekend. The fuel pump I have
now has buzzed for the last 2 yrs !!!! So if your buzzes you have a couple more
years :-)
Question //// My car will start when the temperature is below 30.2F ( -1C ) No
problem ( almost an instant start ) Whenever my car has been driven and it sits
for a couple hours it develops a hard start attitude. This tells me that the cold
start valve works when the engine is cold... correct. Now at the out let from the
engine to the top of the rad there are all the sensors . The largest sensor ( sorry
name ? ) at the bottom of the out let area, I have changed out. The swapping of
this part has made no change to the warm start problem ?
- car stops when you open oil cap / runs rough when dip stick is removed ...
No vacuum leaks.
- car overall runs like it should, no ideal problems, no hesitation ....
- could the 6th injector not be working correctly for warmer engine conditions?
- did I change out the wrong sensor ?
- what is the smaller sensor at the 3 o clock position ?
thanks for your input ...later
87turboQuattro ski car
93 V8 summer car
74 stingray summer car II
Hey Guys the Audi has been running great ... we have had some snow. I've
been able to fill my gas tank up all the way ...wow . I received a fuel pump from a
guy in NY so I will be putting that in on the weekend. The fuel pump I have
now has buzzed for the last 2 yrs !!!! So if your buzzes you have a couple more
years :-)
Question //// My car will start when the temperature is below 30.2F ( -1C ) No
problem ( almost an instant start ) Whenever my car has been driven and it sits
for a couple hours it develops a hard start attitude. This tells me that the cold
start valve works when the engine is cold... correct. Now at the out let from the
engine to the top of the rad there are all the sensors . The largest sensor ( sorry
name ? ) at the bottom of the out let area, I have changed out. The swapping of
this part has made no change to the warm start problem ?
- car stops when you open oil cap / runs rough when dip stick is removed ...
No vacuum leaks.
- car overall runs like it should, no ideal problems, no hesitation ....
- could the 6th injector not be working correctly for warmer engine conditions?
- did I change out the wrong sensor ?
- what is the smaller sensor at the 3 o clock position ?
thanks for your input ...later
87turboQuattro ski car
93 V8 summer car
74 stingray summer car II
#2
Re: Warm start problem ...
Car stops when the oil cap is removed?
Car stumbles when the dip stick is removed?
And your assesment is no vacuum leaks. I have never heard that one before. Are you sure?
I'm interested in seeing anyone else's interpretation.
Good luck, btw - these cars will drive you insane
Car stumbles when the dip stick is removed?
And your assesment is no vacuum leaks. I have never heard that one before. Are you sure?
I'm interested in seeing anyone else's interpretation.
Good luck, btw - these cars will drive you insane
#3
Yes, that means little or no vac leaks
If there is a vacuume leak big enough to notice the computer will compensate for it. so by pulling the dipstick the idle shouldnt change much. If the leak is large enough, pulling the cap may not stall the engine.
How do I know this? my car had major vac leaks when I first got it and it ran with the cap pulled......
If there are'nt any leaks, by pulling the dipstick you are creating one and the engine will run rough. Im not sure how long itl run like that before it corrects itself? By pulling the cap, you are creating a very large leak and the engine should stall right away. if it doesnt you've got a leak somewhere. That is my understanding of the whole shpeel.
So if someone with CIS says I added oil with the engine running, you can tell him he's got problems
make sense?
How do I know this? my car had major vac leaks when I first got it and it ran with the cap pulled......
If there are'nt any leaks, by pulling the dipstick you are creating one and the engine will run rough. Im not sure how long itl run like that before it corrects itself? By pulling the cap, you are creating a very large leak and the engine should stall right away. if it doesnt you've got a leak somewhere. That is my understanding of the whole shpeel.
So if someone with CIS says I added oil with the engine running, you can tell him he's got problems
make sense?
#4
Re: yes that means little or no vac leaks
This must be specific to the CIS.
I have had and own other cars, that this is not true.. Unless I have had major vac leaks with all of my cars. lol
Thanks for the clarification
I have had and own other cars, that this is not true.. Unless I have had major vac leaks with all of my cars. lol
Thanks for the clarification
#5
No problem. Yes strictly CIS.
Any air that enters the engine after the air metering plate (unmetered air), is going to lean things out.
another example of how CIS can put a damper on your weekend. these cars do not like vacuume leaks.
another example of how CIS can put a damper on your weekend. these cars do not like vacuume leaks.
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#8
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I guess the real question is why does it start when its cold ?
are ya saying that the injectors are leaking fuel into the cylinder ?
#10
Re: Warm start problem ...
I'd be willing to bet that you have a bad check valve on your current fuel pump. If the new pump has a check valve on it, your problem may well be solved.
Sounds very similar to my 200q20v. A $13 check valve solved the problem.
Let us know if the new fuel pump solves the problem.
-- Tom
Sounds very similar to my 200q20v. A $13 check valve solved the problem.
Let us know if the new fuel pump solves the problem.
-- Tom