Why chip instead of a boost controller?
#1
Why chip instead of a boost controller?
Boost controllers are much cheaper, and if you make them run safe(ex. 15psi) boost, why not use them instead?
Maybe I am totaly wrong, so please correct me and show what are the advantages/disadvantages of chipping .vs. manual boost controlling.
Thank you in advance,
Lewis
'86 5000t fwd
'88 5000tq
Maybe I am totaly wrong, so please correct me and show what are the advantages/disadvantages of chipping .vs. manual boost controlling.
Thank you in advance,
Lewis
'86 5000t fwd
'88 5000tq
#3
how bout a real explanation.........
the chip in your stock ECU cuts fuel at 1.6 bar of boost. This is for a couple reasons. Engine protection and the stock chip doesn't have fuel maps for more than 1.6 bar of boost or according ignition maps. So a new chip raises that fuel cutoff to 1.95 or eliminates it all together. It also advances timing across the range as the stock audi maps are very conservative. But also provides the according timing retard under boost. The fuel maps are also recalculated to provide the necessary amount of fuel for more boost. You can use a boost controller to keep the wastegate clamped, but if you still have a fuel cutoff, you'll just run into that. IF you eliminate the cutoff and just crank down your boost controller, you'll be running dangerously lean under higher amounts of boost, say 15 psi or more. This is depending on what else you do to increase the amount of fuel you need.
It is great to run a chip in accordance with the WG controller, then you can squeeze that little extra out of it. But if you do a chip, you will need to change the WG spring as well to put a stiffer one in. I've tried running my stock spring cranked down for more than 8psi of boost, and the spring has no range of motion and does not function well.
Chips and WG springs can be found very cheap for these cars. Do some searching in the archives here for "qlcc" or on google, search for the same thing. www.sjmautotechnik.com www.intendedacceleration.com these are a couple great websites explaining a lot of this. Especially SJM.
HTH and good luck
Jeff
It is great to run a chip in accordance with the WG controller, then you can squeeze that little extra out of it. But if you do a chip, you will need to change the WG spring as well to put a stiffer one in. I've tried running my stock spring cranked down for more than 8psi of boost, and the spring has no range of motion and does not function well.
Chips and WG springs can be found very cheap for these cars. Do some searching in the archives here for "qlcc" or on google, search for the same thing. www.sjmautotechnik.com www.intendedacceleration.com these are a couple great websites explaining a lot of this. Especially SJM.
HTH and good luck
Jeff
#7
Re: which chip? IA claims 230HP with their chip, is it really true?
QLCC...
From what I understand there isn't much to choose between chips... did lots of research...
I think 220hp is more like it just chipping perhaps a bit less since the turbo lag is still an issue...
The WG spring allows the boost to build much more rapidly.
Do you know how to use a soldering iron?
From what I understand there isn't much to choose between chips... did lots of research...
I think 220hp is more like it just chipping perhaps a bit less since the turbo lag is still an issue...
The WG spring allows the boost to build much more rapidly.
Do you know how to use a soldering iron?
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#10
Chip vs. Boost controller
A chip is an excellent way to increase the boost on the 10V or 20V engines and provides you with correct data for ignition, fuel and boost. Put a resistor on the PT (and use a pressure regulator) you'll screw up the nicely programmed boost maps, timing maps and fuel enrichment.
You'll also delete some safety and handy features like the digital assisted boost when using a pressure regulator.
The CIS can provide you fuel up to +/- 2.0 bar near redline, then it tops out and you'll be running lean unless you get yourself a fuel supplement (suppl. EFI, cold start injectors, ...)
There are 2 engines: the 163 HP and 220 HP engine. The difference is the boost + all the mechanical ascessoires to keep it running safely. better intercooler, BPV, forged crankshaft (? don't know that for sure), ...
When increasing boost, take a look at the changes made by Audi when producing the upgraded engine to keep it together reliably.
Personnally, I think that +/- 400 euro for a ECU modification isn't that much since you gain +/- 50 HP on all engines (163 -> 220 HP for the 10V and 220 -> 277 HP on the 20V). Note that this is when the knock sensors don't react.
I've a test which clearly shows the reaction of the knock sensors on the dyno: power stops and drops at 265 HP, with better intercoller, it runs freely to 280 HP near 7200 rpm for the 20V.
I believe that IA, SJM, Force5 and the QLCC code deliver you a nice service and reliable modifications.
I've read that chipping a 10V can cause you a melted 1st and 5th piston since the exhaust manifold is very restricting to these pistons. Chipping could be enough to cause damage. Don't shoot me when I'm wrong, I've simply read it (;-).
I don't recommend nitro (NOS) since the burntemperature is hotter than with normal air. You'll probably burn the valves and pistons if you're not carefull with a 70 or 100 HP shot.
Cheers.
You'll also delete some safety and handy features like the digital assisted boost when using a pressure regulator.
The CIS can provide you fuel up to +/- 2.0 bar near redline, then it tops out and you'll be running lean unless you get yourself a fuel supplement (suppl. EFI, cold start injectors, ...)
There are 2 engines: the 163 HP and 220 HP engine. The difference is the boost + all the mechanical ascessoires to keep it running safely. better intercooler, BPV, forged crankshaft (? don't know that for sure), ...
When increasing boost, take a look at the changes made by Audi when producing the upgraded engine to keep it together reliably.
Personnally, I think that +/- 400 euro for a ECU modification isn't that much since you gain +/- 50 HP on all engines (163 -> 220 HP for the 10V and 220 -> 277 HP on the 20V). Note that this is when the knock sensors don't react.
I've a test which clearly shows the reaction of the knock sensors on the dyno: power stops and drops at 265 HP, with better intercoller, it runs freely to 280 HP near 7200 rpm for the 20V.
I believe that IA, SJM, Force5 and the QLCC code deliver you a nice service and reliable modifications.
I've read that chipping a 10V can cause you a melted 1st and 5th piston since the exhaust manifold is very restricting to these pistons. Chipping could be enough to cause damage. Don't shoot me when I'm wrong, I've simply read it (;-).
I don't recommend nitro (NOS) since the burntemperature is hotter than with normal air. You'll probably burn the valves and pistons if you're not carefull with a 70 or 100 HP shot.
Cheers.