Solid20vq

I need to replace a severed strut bearing, which means it's coincidentally also time for new struts. I would like to throw something stiffer under there, and if the price is right I'll replace all four, as I don't want to pay for an alignment twice. I was wrestling with the idea of renting a spring compressor and replacing them myself, but now I think this would best be a job left to those with the right equipment and resources to do it correctly and efficiently. I will probably go to a local tire/brake/suspension place (Les Schwab) and have it done there; I like to support my local Audi ASE tech, but I have already given him enough business to put a few kids through college.

Does anyone have any suggestions for replacement struts? I am looking for something stiffer than stock OE for around $80 per unit ($320 all four)

I also remember someone telling me about shocks that are adjusted for tired (compressed) springs. Does this result in a lower ride height? Has anyone had experience with this?

Thanks in advance for any input you may have
-solid

egp320i

Bilstein HD's are good, I have them on all 4's but if you think your going to get them for the price you quoted, not happening.

I bought mine from AJUSA with a promo coupon and still paid over $400 even with free shipping.
Just checked, for your model $129 each front $139 each rear.
$536 is a far cry from $320 you want to spend.
Even OEM Sachs/Boge advantage will cost you more then that.


I would not really trust Schwab to do the job right either, hell they could not even do my alignment right.

Luxus Panzer

you can get one for about 40 bucks, you need this kind...

http://www.princessauto.com/pal/prod...ing-Compressor



You can take the money you save by not going to a shop and put it into the struts. Easy job and you will learn LOTS about your suspension.

Solid20vq

This isn't the first time I've heard that; they charged a friend of mine for a brake job, and come to find out they didn't do anything, even called the cops on her when she was trying to get a refund.

Maybe I'll just do it myself, Napa rents tools don't they?

egp320i

Most auto places rent tools although the front sprints are very strong so I would be leery to use some cheap tool plus you need a good bench.

Obviously the best route would be the actual VAG spring compressor but only the dealer will have that.

A way to go half and half is if you remove your assembly and take the strut to a good shop they could quickly and safely replace the strut, make sure it is aligned right and seated and you do the work of putting the assembly back which is most of the labor.

A shop might do this, the dealer I really doubt it due to legality and probably some other issues.

Sach/Boge advantage are not bad struts at all, brand new they will be stiff. If your shocks are ancient with 100K they are worn and soft.

Autohaus sells the fronts, not sure about the rear and they are reasonable in price.

I had Boge turbo-gas on my BMW and they were great, bilsteins HD's are a bit stiffer but you have to ask if you really need it.

Solid20vq

I put KYB Gas-A-Just shocks all around on the E30, which was a notch stiffer than stock, and was very happy; they suited my driving style/roads well. I work at a ski area and the access road is amazing when it's dry, so I need something that will handle well when I get the chance to let her run. On the other hand, I do a lot of driving and a lot of traveling. I need something that won't beat anybody up when we jump in the car for the five hour drive to Portland.

I'd be willing to bet the current struts/shocks have around 80-90k, so anything will be an improvement, however, eventually I plan on opening her up with the 7A stage 2 kit from 034 and I want her properly equipped to handle the power increase.

When you say a good shop, are you referring to a general auto, Audi tech, or machine shop? Also I'm assuming alignment still must be done once everything is put back together, true?

Furthermore, would a severed top strut bearing complicate matters if I just wanted to pull the assembly? Would I be able to detach the assembly without using a spring compressor?

-> thanks for the info, much appriciateds

egp320i

KYB are decent but Boge is better. You have touring class and improved which used to be called turbo-gas but now looks to be advantage.
They are reasonably priced.
Shocks are generally worn at 100K so you are getting to that point.

A upper strut bearing which is shot will wear struts out faster so it certainly needs to be replaced and make steering stiffer.

When I say shop I mean one that either knows Audi's well or European cars, I would not trust any national chain like Midas to do the job correctly.

Bilstein HD's are stiff, On smooth roads they are great and soak up road variations but RR tracks and potholes you can feel the thud.

My A6 has touring class and it glides over RR tracks much smoother, likewise I can't drive it like I stole it and take corners hard without roll, not that I really need to.

I had Boge's in my E21 and they fit the bill, not soft but not stiff either.

Koni is another choice although they tend to be even more then Bilstein and harder to find but they are adjustable to suit your needs.

4AudiQ

I did my own on a 1995 using 2 of the following:
http://www.harborfreight.com/macpher...-set-3980.html

Solid20vq

So I decided to go with Egp320i's suggestion, which was to pull the assemblies myself, and take them in to the shop and have the tech mount the shock cartridges. I must admit, I was anxious to really tear into this car myself, as I do not want to damage anything because of not having the right tools or TSB's, but so far it seems as if everything is holding up nicely. Big thanks to EGP for the suggestion, because it probably saved me $300-$400 in labor costs. I must also thank the guys at Audi20v.net for providing necessary reference material to do this job on my own; there I was able to find instruction to properly remove the strut assemblies.

For those of you looking to do this yourself, here are a few things I would have done differently: First, the service manual calls for a clamp/press (which looks similar to a steering wheel puller, sort of) to press the tie-rod ends out of the strut assembly; I wish I would have bought one for around $20 rather than beat it out with a hammer. We'll see if this has any ill effects on the steering :/. Second, the tool which is used to torque down the nut at the top of the strut, which allows for a countering allen wrench to hold it steady, might be a good idea to find/borrow. I 'got it done,' by using some very large channel-locks clamped around the outside of the appropriate socket, and an allen key/wrench breaker-bar to achieve pretty good torque. Again, with a bit of foresight I would have done this differently, and we'll have yet to see if it is a legitimate procedure. In my case, a severed strut bearing was allowing the strut assembly to wiggle around in the strut housing/mount so it just had to be done, and on a budget.

I replaced the cartridges with KYB GR-2 shocks for about $80 a unit, and both top bearings for $60 per unit. I was charged for 1.8 hours of labor, roughly, to mount the cartridges and bearings into the assemblies which brought the job total to $436.

Thanks to everyone who contributed, all of your suggestions and input are appreciated!
-solid

yodasfro

I don't mean to be a downer but you paid way too much for those parts.
Here are some parts places with good prices it pays to shop around.
http://www.autohausaz.com/
http://www.partsgeek.com/
http://www.rockauto.com/
http://www.gowestyautoparts.com/
http://www.germanautoparts.com/
http://www.foreignautomotiveparts.com/