Evolution Big Brake System Level 1
08-29-2003, 06:29 AM
#1
AudiWorld Expert
Thread Starter
Evolution Big Brake System Level 1
<center><img src="http://www.evoms.com/Images_Pict/a_brakelv1.gif"></center><p>
Did you guys know, this system can easily be fitted to a B4 Audi, with minor modification?
You retain your OEM rotor too! ;O)<ul><li><a href="http://www.evoms.com/a%20brakes1.htm">http://www.evoms.com/a%20brakes1.htm</a</li></ul>
Did you guys know, this system can easily be fitted to a B4 Audi, with minor modification?
You retain your OEM rotor too! ;O)<ul><li><a href="http://www.evoms.com/a%20brakes1.htm">http://www.evoms.com/a%20brakes1.htm</a</li></ul>
08-29-2003, 07:03 AM
#4
AudiWorld Expert
Thread Starter
Re: advantages?
14lbs of weight dropped off.
Caliper with much higher clamping force = better stopping power.
Larger number of various brake pads & compounds available.
Run under 16" wheels.(Cabriolet)
Use OEM sized rotors.
They perform as well as they look! ;O)
Caliper with much higher clamping force = better stopping power.
Larger number of various brake pads & compounds available.
Run under 16" wheels.(Cabriolet)
Use OEM sized rotors.
They perform as well as they look! ;O)
08-29-2003, 07:18 AM
#6
AudiWorld Expert
Thread Starter
Folks would be amazed at the differance...........
from removing the large & heavy G60 caliper, and replace it with a lighter weight, more effective Aluminum caliper. BTDT! ;O)
08-29-2003, 07:24 AM
#7
None that I can think of.....
...for braking at least.
You're actually better off with a larger rotor and a stock caliper than vice versa.
Physics:
F=P/A
That's not only a good idea, it's the law. Changing the caliper will not change the P or the A. The load, P, is applied by your foot. There is no reason that would change at all, you're using the same foot.
The area, A, is restricted by the brake lines. This will also stay the same. Plus if you chagned the area you would need a better master cylinder anyway to keep P the same.
You would gain two things with this caliper: You will gain less flex in the actually caliper. You will also get marinal gains increasing the number of pistions, this just creates a more uniform pad pressure. However, the overall force applied will remain nearly identical. This can lead to some gain but probably not near what the kit costs. You can get more for your money by just switching to a high quality brake pad.
Braking stops a car via heat. You convert kenetic energy to heat energy. Controlling the heat is the key to good brakes. The two methods used to dissipate heat are MASS or AIR. Put a large rotor on you have larger mass to dissipate heat. Vent the rotor and you allow heat to escape faster.
As a side:
Cross-drilling is a trade off. You reduce the mass of the rotor but increase the air (venting). As long as you allow enough air (venting) to off-set the reduction in mass, you're fine. In reality, the benefits to cross-drilling can best be reconzied on the track (lot more air). The street effect of cross-drilling is mariginal, and in some cases, can be worse.
Anyway, back to the kit. Most gain on this set-up will actually be had with your suspension. Dropping unsprung weight will help the suspension but any significant braking increase I would seriously question.
Off my soap box now. ;-)
You're actually better off with a larger rotor and a stock caliper than vice versa.
Physics:
F=P/A
That's not only a good idea, it's the law. Changing the caliper will not change the P or the A. The load, P, is applied by your foot. There is no reason that would change at all, you're using the same foot.
The area, A, is restricted by the brake lines. This will also stay the same. Plus if you chagned the area you would need a better master cylinder anyway to keep P the same.
You would gain two things with this caliper: You will gain less flex in the actually caliper. You will also get marinal gains increasing the number of pistions, this just creates a more uniform pad pressure. However, the overall force applied will remain nearly identical. This can lead to some gain but probably not near what the kit costs. You can get more for your money by just switching to a high quality brake pad.
Braking stops a car via heat. You convert kenetic energy to heat energy. Controlling the heat is the key to good brakes. The two methods used to dissipate heat are MASS or AIR. Put a large rotor on you have larger mass to dissipate heat. Vent the rotor and you allow heat to escape faster.
As a side:
Cross-drilling is a trade off. You reduce the mass of the rotor but increase the air (venting). As long as you allow enough air (venting) to off-set the reduction in mass, you're fine. In reality, the benefits to cross-drilling can best be reconzied on the track (lot more air). The street effect of cross-drilling is mariginal, and in some cases, can be worse.
Anyway, back to the kit. Most gain on this set-up will actually be had with your suspension. Dropping unsprung weight will help the suspension but any significant braking increase I would seriously question.
Off my soap box now. ;-)
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