im trying to put new brake discs/and pads on the rears (b4 12v). and I cannot....
#12
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If I had gobs of cash i'd just replace everything and not worry about bustin' off....
the old stuff....but this is not my situation. I already spent a bundle on 034 goodies plus the discs and pads. Im not so thrilled about the possibility of ruining those sliders.
are the 8mm bolts easy to source (from flaps or other)?
are the 8mm bolts easy to source (from flaps or other)?
#14
basically correct. without the sliders sliding, the caliper cannot move far enough outwards
to accommodate the new/thick pad. The compromise you must make is that often you can use one new (thick) pad -on the inside portion of the caliper- but you must use an old (thin) pad on the outside.
This is the only way to get around the stuck slider issue, and it means you at least get one fresh pad in there. But yea, certainly it's not the best compromise.
I did this with one rear brake in my S4 because a slider was frozen and I didn't have the heat at the time to un-glue it. The system worked fine and bought me enough time with some semi-fresh rear brakes until I could properly tend to the slider.
This is the only way to get around the stuck slider issue, and it means you at least get one fresh pad in there. But yea, certainly it's not the best compromise.
I did this with one rear brake in my S4 because a slider was frozen and I didn't have the heat at the time to un-glue it. The system worked fine and bought me enough time with some semi-fresh rear brakes until I could properly tend to the slider.
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theres no way in hell that would work for me! (unfortunately) my situation:
at least on the pass side rear is sooooo bad that the outter pad (if you still want to call it that....because I pulled off huge pieces of it that were stuck to the disc) has worn itself down to the back plate and has carved some CRAZY grooves into the disc/ugly/squeely sounds/etc,etc. this stuff has to go completely.
#16
the bolts will probably be of a fairly high grade (because they are brake-related)...so sourcing
exact replacements could be tricky, whereas sourcing something that's similar but maybe crappy quality would be easier. I live in Canada and our support for metric fittings & fasteners sucks. I know of a couple wicked vendors in the U.S. which specialize in metric only and have a vast selection of grades.
With that being said I'm sure you can always get them from a dealer or other European independent parts shop. If you have ETKA I'm sure those bolts would be listed with a PN. But yea, I think it's just not a super straight forward acquisition.
Buying all new is great, but yea, the cost is sometimes prohibitive. Realistically it's not really worth it unless something goes super wrong. Best situation is to be aware of the pitfalls and to best be mentally prepared & to have backup plans. For me my backup plan is always Chris@Force5, heheh.. if I need it he probably has it and then all I have to account for is additional downtime with the car.
I'm headed out now for beers with my friend, so good luck and see ya tomorrow.
With that being said I'm sure you can always get them from a dealer or other European independent parts shop. If you have ETKA I'm sure those bolts would be listed with a PN. But yea, I think it's just not a super straight forward acquisition.
Buying all new is great, but yea, the cost is sometimes prohibitive. Realistically it's not really worth it unless something goes super wrong. Best situation is to be aware of the pitfalls and to best be mentally prepared & to have backup plans. For me my backup plan is always Chris@Force5, heheh.. if I need it he probably has it and then all I have to account for is additional downtime with the car.
I'm headed out now for beers with my friend, so good luck and see ya tomorrow.