VAP

here's the secret. 35 years ago we adapted various motors but nowadays things like this are available pre-packaged and off-the-shelf. My system will also incorporate a 60 micron stainless steel in-line mesh filter with a seriously strong earth magnet to trap any steel particles and keep them out of the transmission internal rotating assemblies.

I will drill/tap my transmission case just below the driver side axle and and use a 1/2" NPT to AN 12 adapter. Approx 12" away on frame rail I will mount this pump which is self priming and will pull oil out of the transmission then push it around to the radiator-mounted transmission oil cooler and back into the manual transmission under the passenger side axle with an identical drilled/tapped 1/2" NPT to AN 12 fitting. Near the pump will be a Mocal oil thermostat set at 195*F and pump on/off temp switch set to 200F so oil pump stays turned off and no oil circulation occurs until/if oil exceeds that number. An inline temp sensor/switch will automatically turn the pump on/off as needed via the Haltech engine management. This will increase transmission oil capacity to 5 Quarts instead of the normal 3 quart system.<ul><li><a href="http://www.racerpartswholesale.com/mocal1.htm">Transmission oil pump</a></li></ul>

NoNonsense

do you think the transmission ever exceeds that temperate on the street? I wouldn't think so, but I'm not sure either.

VAP

in stop &amp; go summer driving. However it spikes 215, 225 and 245 on laps 1, 2 &amp; 3 around the track and hovers near 265/275 depending on ambient and asphalt temps for the rest of track outing. I'd like to keep it closer to 200F. Every 20 degree temp drop above 195F effectively doubles oil life.

You could do this without Haltech via the same method using a setup similar to the cooling fans with a temp sensor, relay &amp; switch.

RxFX101

quick..someone send me money for no reason at all!

MikTip

With your gearbox temps hovering at those temps, do you run the standard weight oil?

NoNonsense

couldn't you also have the pump run whenever the ignition is on, and have the thermostat simply bypass the cooler and return the oil back to the tranny? I know this means that the pump would be running all the time...i'm just curious.

VAP

it only opens/flows oil after its reached its pre-set tempterature which in turn starts the oil pump. To run the pump while the 'stat' is closed would kill the pump motor in very short order due to thermal overload of the pump... it would simply burn out. You could also use oil temp sensors to operate inline electric valves and accomplish bypass routing but there comes a point in time when complexity of the system renders it as much a liability as an asset. Best to keep oil flow simple and not like a subway system. I'll also have a dash-mounted tell-tale LED that lets me know when pump is running so I can better understand its cycles and more easily determine when/if something goes wrong.

There's probably dozens of ways to approach the system but only one way with "least" component count, maximum reliability and simplicity.

I'm sure the temp sensors you've seen are common fan-switch sensors used to set on/off temps for fans in cooling systems. Those work well as sensors dont know if they're reading oil or water temps or if they're turning on cooling fans or oil pump motors. Long as their amp/load ratings are compatible with each other. You can see them at most all national auto parts stores in the radiator cooling aisle. But you dont want the oil pump turning on and pumping when the oil is cold and/or thick as these pump motors with their relatively low amp ratings just arent up to the task of pumping a heavy-bodied "grease." Thats why an inline mechanical thermostat is imperative and simpler/more reliable than any "bypass system." Its why cars have used them for almost 100 years. It aint "bullet-proof" but its way way ahead of whatever is in 2nd place.

Additionally I dont think a pump motor such as this one are rated for "continuous duty" and running it full time would contribute to a rapid demise. Due to oil cooler size and line ID's chosen I expect this pump to cycle on less than 15% of the time I'm on the track. Instead I expect it to cycle on/off for approx 1 "flush cycle" of oil which will likely lower temps to sub190F then run 1 cycle again when that oil exceeds reaches 200F. The the process repeats as-needed. If my cooler, fittings, oil capacity and hose diameters have been selected correctly this "should" allow for right at 15% "on-pump" times while on the track. Which should provide long pump life... perhaps as long as engine life.

VAP

I use 2 quarts of MT-90 GL4 75W90 and 1 qt of MTL 70W80 as I find this ratio works best for me in my climate. Either separately would work fine but since they are perfectly compatible with each other I prefer the easier shifting when cold out offered by mixing.

Thicker oils dont run any cooler but rather just take longer to get up to their temperature. They also take longer to cool. Thinner oils get up to temp faster and are faster to cool. Higher viscosity oils also eat power... takes more power to spin rotaional assmblies thru them and thinner takes less power. The best compromise will always be an oil that protects AND takes the least amount of power away. This basically echoes not only the reasons why I use this oil combination but also the reason why I want/need transmission oil cooling. Best of both worlds!

NoNonsense

<center><img src="http://nononsenseaudi.com/Albums/oilcooler/images/mocal%20works.JPG"></center><p>like our engine oil pumps and p/s pumps?
like my drawing?

VAP

our mechanical power steering and engine oil pumps should not run all the time. It's not that the thermostat is not "good" for intermittant use it's that 12V oil pumps are not "good" for continuous use.

Thermostat is fine in either scenario.