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Brakes @ 29K??

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Old 11-06-2018, 09:43 AM
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Originally Posted by SCarGuy
this is another reason it's crucial to properly square the disk up with the hub, and, use a torque wrench, with the wheel on the ground and to ensure things like wheel bearings are within spec, etc
I agree, but I don't know how many times I see mechanics just use a impact wrench to tighten the bolts.
Old 11-06-2018, 10:53 AM
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Default Yeah u probably read it wrong. I've used the stop tech article for years.

Originally Posted by The G Man
Did I read this read, the bed in procedure calls for driving the car as fast as possible with the brakes applied, that doesn't sound right. A fast build up of heat in the pads and rotors can cause the rotor to warp and the pads to glaze up. In fact, different pad manufacturers recommend different bed in procedures.

https://www.tirerack.com/tires/tiret....jsp?techid=85
No problem with that procedure with saabs, audi 2K4.2A6, E46 M3. BTW..I only got 66K miles on OEM BMW textar pads on my 03 M3 convertible. Yeah, the cabrio is 400# heavier than the M3 coupe...
Old 11-06-2018, 10:57 AM
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Default LOL...Saab even had a tool that sanded off the brake deposits.

Originally Posted by SCarGuy
it's definitely not semantics though, if you (and lots of people think this way) think that by putting cold water on a "hot" rotor, it's going to change shape - it can't, and won't

but by not once in a while actually getting on the brakes on most of these types of vehicles, you end up with deposits on the disks, and those deposits build high spots, and then you get the judder sensation. Bedding them back in solves it more times than not.

For some, switching to ceramic pads can be good, if they aren't heavy on the brakes from time to time. Ceramics have nowhere near the "mu" or the bite (feel), that other compounds do, but, they have very low dust, tend to be extremely quiet, and don't leave hese types of deposits with lighter use. But, they also can't take heat all that well, so for those who favor hard back road use, or do lots of heavier braking from higher speeds, they may quickly find the ceramics just aren't up to the task. All depends on the total blend of the compound, etc. Every brand can provide data on their particular pad compound as far as mu, temp range, etc.
Since mine was FWD with front e-brake, it was easy to install the tool with emery cloth, run the car in drive on jack stands and work the brake lever at the front caliper to 'grind' the rotor clean. It removed very little metal and contributed to fast brake bedding on new pads.
Old 11-06-2018, 11:02 AM
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Default I use an impact wrench set on about as low as it will go.

Originally Posted by The G Man
I agree, but I don't know how many times I see mechanics just use a impact wrench to tighten the bolts.
Can tell when the bolt/nut gets tight, then ⅛ or so turn and let up on the trigger. I then torque all the wheels and then retorque in a few days. You'd be surprised how often (once or twice in years) or how seldom the lugnut/bolt loosens.

I don't believe in torque limiting 'sticks' between the impact wrench and the socket, either. I've used impact wrench by reversing the deep well socket by hand until it clicks and then rotating the socket a little to start it correctly and then using the impact wrench...one trick is to hold the wheel against the hub with one hand while the air wrench tightens the fastener.
Old 11-06-2018, 11:04 AM
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Default Or even deposits on the back of the wheel or on the hub flange.

Originally Posted by The G Man
Beside brake pad deposits, another problem is uneven rotor wear.
Rust or other deposits on the hub flange can **** the wheel a bit. I'm not crazy about using a special rotary tool to clean the hub flange or the back of the wheel...just keep it clean. Antiseize on the hub flange helps to keep the wheel and the hub from becoming one through corrosion....
Old 11-06-2018, 12:22 PM
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Originally Posted by The G Man
I agree, but I don't know how many times I see mechanics just use a impact wrench to tighten the bolts.
omg yes, it's awful
Old 11-06-2018, 02:46 PM
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I must admit, I know too many guys who re-torque their bolts a few times a year. You guys must be true auto enthusiast.
Old 11-06-2018, 02:49 PM
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Originally Posted by The G Man
I must admit, I know too many guys who re-torque their bolts a few times a year. You guys must be true auto enthusiast.

Purely “old school” for me — safety versus 20 minutes to check the torque - safety every time.
Old 03-23-2019, 11:16 AM
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Update - Went in for my 40K (yes, I really do a lot of - mostly- highway miles) and the dealer not only said my brakes "look fine with 8mm all around", but they had said 7mm @ 30K... My pads are auto-magically reverse aging! Who knew!

Seriously, I am going to a trusted (word of mouth) brake shop when I finally need them done. Dealer pricing is outlandish and they obviously aren't smart enough to at least look in their records to see what BS they told me last time (or maybe they just don't give a $hit)..
Old 03-23-2019, 03:31 PM
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Originally Posted by Gunner1737
Update - Went in for my 40K (yes, I really do a lot of - mostly- highway miles) and the dealer not only said my brakes "look fine with 8mm all around", but they had said 7mm @ 30K... My pads are auto-magically reverse aging! Who knew!

Seriously, I am going to a trusted (word of mouth) brake shop when I finally need them done. Dealer pricing is outlandish and they obviously aren't smart enough to at least look in their records to see what BS they told me last time (or maybe they just don't give a $hit)..
I love these dealer stories. They really are one of the most colluded industries out there. The amount of bull they feed to their customers is outrageous.


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