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Changing all the speakers in a B&O sportback car

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Old 08-31-2020, 02:23 AM
  #201  
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Originally Posted by bruce_miranda
Yup I agree. It must be millimeter perfect actually. Unless you put some foam tape between the spacer and the body, or used the drip guard. But most important question, how does the doors sound?
I did put foam tape between both the speaker to the Basser mount flange and the Basser mount to the door face. So this gap is with two pieces of Frost King 3/8 in. x 3/16 in. x 17 ft. Grey Vinyl Foam Weatherseal Tape (from the HomeDep*t) sandwiched in between each mating surface (two pieces at the top where the wiring harness is installed to sandwich the wiring).

Foam tape is installed between both the speaker & mount and the mount to the door as installed like the picture shows.


Last edited by Mortys66; 08-31-2020 at 02:31 AM.
Old 08-31-2020, 02:40 AM
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Originally Posted by bruce_miranda
Best thing about the bottom door grills is that it clips in from the front, so you can put everything back, enjoy your music without the grills for a while and then when you are ready to take on careless passengers you just clip the grill back on. What did you do with the B&O led, removed it completely or did something more creative.
I just disconnected the wiring from the input for now, I'm sure I will think of something creative to make up or I'll find a way to add the metal strip onto the grille (just to keep the B&O theme going with the rest of the speakers) and call it a day. I just might make a 'Sensational Sounds by DM Audio' aluminum nameplate for everything just to make it custom for my name.
Old 08-31-2020, 03:12 AM
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Originally Posted by bruce_miranda
If I am not mistaken, you have replaced all, but the top 3D A pillar tweeters, Centre tweeter, dashboard 3D mids and Rear surrounds. If I were you, I would forget those. If you were really determined, maybe just do the Rear surrounds, simply because in the B&O system you can never completely turn off the surrounds, so changing the rear surrounds with matching Faitalpro 4FE32 will provide you some marginal benefit.
If you have the 3D switched off (which you should) then the 3D tweeters on the A pillar and 3D mids on the dashboard don't come on anyway.
And the Centre channel tweeter is actually very good, it's probably the best tweeter in the car.
Yep, you are correct for the replacement speakers. The 3D front corner dash speakers are next, then I will do the 3D rear surround locations. Both of these two locations are a 'for sure' basis with me for replacement. I will then listen to the system together using the 3D Effects Surround on and then again off to compare them and see if there is that much of a difference to justify drilling out the rivets. If the 3D Effects sounds as good as the rest of the system does now, with the stock B&O tweeters installed, I will probably just leave them alone. If the sound is noticeably different I will have to change out the upper A-pillar tweeter position and the Centre dashboard tweeter position with the Focal TWU 1.5 tweeters. It all depends how the sound is with everything working in concert with each other. This system ROCKS when compared to the stock B&O, its almost a shame to pair up these Focal TWU 1.5 tweeters (that are already installed in the rear door tweeter positions) with the last two tweeter spots. Beside my 'OCD mind' just might not let me leave the last two spots with the stock B&O tweeters, I will just have to cross that bridge when I get there.
Old 08-31-2020, 11:11 AM
  #204  
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As promised the front door Woofer to door panel gap measurements are as follows (see pictures as they fit nicely using the Basser DMaudi03 mount ring):

Front or leading edge of the speaker to the door panel opening is: 3/32" of an inch
Top or upper edge of the speaker to the door panel opening is: 5/16" of an inch
Aft or trailing edge of the speaker to the door panel opening is: 5/32" of an inch
Bottom or lower edge of the speaker to the door panel opening is: 1/8" of an inch

Leading edge or front edge is 3/32" of an inch from the speaker mount to the door panel edge.

Upper edge or top edge is about 5/16" of an inch from the speaker mount to the door panel edge.


Trailing edge or aft edge is 5/32" of an inch from the speaker mount to the door panel edge.

Lower edge or bottom edge is 1/8" of an inch from the speaker mount to the door panel edge.

Last edited by Mortys66; 08-31-2020 at 11:17 AM.
Old 08-31-2020, 12:28 PM
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Any chance of seeing a photo directly from the front. I want to see how much space is taken up by the cone vs the speaker frame wrt the opening.
Old 08-31-2020, 09:01 PM
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Originally Posted by bruce_miranda
Any chance of seeing a photo directly from the front. I want to see how much space is taken up by the cone vs the speaker frame wrt the opening.
I think these picture are the best ones that show the most speaker cone & door panel, from the Sideview. I will have to show you some pictures that I've already taken (its to dark outside because its midnight thirty here in Indianapolis), so I will snap some tomorrow if you want anything more specific so just let me know if you need anything for the record.

Looking straight down

Another shot of the drivers Woofer, looking straight down

Looking at the drivers door Woofer speaker, from the foot well.
Old 08-31-2020, 10:15 PM
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Sorry wanted one straight up I.e. with your camera lens pointing at the cone's dust cap. I want to see how centered that speaker is within the cut out of the door card.
Old 09-01-2020, 07:26 AM
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Originally Posted by bruce_miranda
Sorry wanted one straight up I.e. with your camera lens pointing at the cone's dust cap. I want to see how centered that speaker is within the cut out of the door card.
Sorry, I have both the driver and the passenger side.

Passenger's side.

Driver's side.
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Old 09-01-2020, 07:34 AM
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Is the top part actually touching the speaker cone or does it just look like that?

Does the speaker cone have atleast the 6mm space needed to move freely.

Last edited by bruce_miranda; 09-01-2020 at 07:38 AM.
Old 09-01-2020, 08:07 AM
  #210  
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After the A-pillars were completed I moved on to the rear door speakers, which are pretty straight forward. If you are new to the electrical side of mechanics or vehicle audio installs, but followed along on the progression of changing out speakers, then you are now starting to feel pretty confident in your wiring, soldering and terminating new wire harnesses. I will not cover the removal of the door panel and the removal of the stock B&O speakers as it is covered in many other threads and is pretty straightforward. If you have any trouble with the door panel or removal & replacement of the speakers just reach out an I will cover the way I did mine in more details.

used the SAVW651 6 1/2" inch speaker mount adaptor and the speaker kit Focal ISU-165 (the ISU-165 is a two speaker combo using a 6 1/2" inch Polyglass cone woofer and a 1" inch Aluminum/Magnesium inverted dome tweeter [the tweeter is actually a Focal TWU 1.5 that is paired with the 6 1/2" inch woofer for the ISU-165 speaker kit]). The nice part of the Focal speakers is that they sell the tweeters separately from the ISU-165 speaker combo, as a TWU 1.5, because my B&O system has more tweeter positions then they have 6 1/2" inch woofers.

6 1/2\" mounting adapter

Stock B&O Woofer and tweeter is on the left and the Focal ISU-165 Woofer and tweeter are on the right.

Again, the back of the stock B&O Woofer and tweeter are on the left and the back of the Focal ISU-165 are on the right side.

A Metra 72-9002 universal connector is what I used to make the Woofer connector connection.

The Metra 72-9002 connector is universal and the connector is wired with a single alignment piece on one side of the connector and a dual alignment piece on the other side of the connector. I just cut off the two wires that were on the dual alignment side of the connector as we don't use it, just so there is no confusion wondering what the extra wiring is for later.

Last edited by Mortys66; 09-01-2020 at 08:25 AM.


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