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Hey guys. I finally ordered and installed a sub in my A5. I went with the Basser Box, JL 10w1v32 sub and the kicker key500.1 amp and one of those cables that connects into the factory harness and letting me retain the factory sub as well. I have my remote wire for the sub tied into the 12V cigarette lighter from the right side of the trunk.
After numerous searches it appears I need to have the DC offset set to OFF and Input level set to HI with our systems.
Just curious, but why is it when I place the input level to 'Lo' the bass hits so much harder? On High it doesnt seem as bassy or boomy unless I start raising the gains or bass boost. Is it supposed to be like that? Im still playing with the settings. I have the hi and low pass at 12 o'clock and bass boost at 0. I have the gain barely up maybe at 1. I have the Kicker bass kn0b but the aux cable that came with it is a piece of junk, so I ordered a nice quality one.
Do I have something wrong setup? Maybe my RCA from the dongle is reversed? Wasnt sure if having it on the 'Lo' setting is normal for it to be so bassy and boomy even though that is the incorrect setup? I left it on low since to me it sounds better at the moment until my new AUX cable comes in for my bass kn0b. I did a test with another short AUX cable and it was nice being able to raise and lower the bass with the kn0b.
Took me a couple of days the read through all B&O speaker swap and generic audio topics, but wow, what a great resource this Forum is! Planning my own B&O speaker swap for my Q5e (2019), but still undecided about the mids. I'm trying a different route than the Forum recommended FaitalPro's, but probably more on that later.
@bruce_miranda
Are you still "in business" for a custom B&O speaker swap kit (Q5) ? I'm looking for a complete kit with 6.5" speakers adapters for front & back door and all the speaker plugs incl. sub (where applicable with passive filters). I'm getting my actual speakers from several sources, so no speakers required.
I know a few people here have mentioned that they accidently broke a tab or two when removing the center speaker cover on the dash. Unfortunately, I boke a tab too even though I was careful to follow Bruce's guide (I accidently twisted the cover while removing it and that snapped a tab). The broken tab was rattling around in my dash and was driving me crazy to the point where I was seriously considering taking it to a car audio shop to have them take apart the dash to get it. However, I decided to have a look at things myself first. It turns out the center speaker assembly sits inside the HVAC vent for the front defroster. I removed the corner vents that direct air onto the front windows. Their covers can be removed with a trim tool; there are 4 tabs that hold each on in place. Once the covers were removed, I used a wireless endoscope like this: https://www.amazon.com/DEPSTECH-Wate.../dp/B01MYTHWK4 to look inside the ducts and I found the tab. The endoscope comes with a series of attachments (right angle lens, magnet, and a hook) that I used to pull the tab over to one of the corner vents. I then grabbed it with a pair of needle nose pliers and pulled it out.
Same thing happened to me! i was trying to be so careful and the broke the corner tab, I heard it fall into the AC vent system. I used a borescope to see where it was sitting, but rather then going through the side vents I went straight down the centre dash vent. I tied a magnet to a some twine and went fishing - honestly felt a sense of achievement when I finally pulled it out MacGyver would be proud!
Looks good! I ended up doing something similar, but not quiet as good for the acoustics, I’d imagine. I just drilled lots of holes to emulate a grille and allow the sound to pass through. When the grille is installed, you can’t even tell the holes are there - it looks completely normal.
I purchased the non B&O grilles but ended up missing the ambient lighting. I also have the harness that allows the speaker grille ambient lighting to match the rest of the interior ambient lights and it makes a huge visual difference for the better, imo.
nice work - looks neat too and quicker than trying to cut the plastic. what size drill bit did you use?
@Quintet I always ask people to make threads when they are asking for help so that the information remains to help others in the future. Keen to seen what you land up doing with your car.
@Quintet I always ask people to make threads when they are asking for help so that the information remains to help others in the future. Keen to seen what you land up doing with your car.
I was a bit eager and ordered a set of Morel CAW638 in Germany (expecting them this week) and some AVC speaker rings from a local (Dutch) shop to start my project. Already documenting so I will definitely start a thread and share my project.
I'm still struggling what to do with both the Front Mid & Tweeter and Back MidWoofer & Tweeter in combination with a passive crossover. Both are sharing the same amp channel but are (as I understand) separately wired.
What I like to do for both situations is hiding my "crossover package" somewhere in the door, feed it with the original Mid (or MidWoofer for the rear door) speaker input and custom wire both Mid (MidWoofer) and Tweeter from this "package". Easy in the rear, because both drivers are in close proximity. For the front I need to wire something from the front-door to the A Pillar, a bit more work but can be done. Now the two major questions I have:
1. Are these specific "shared" channels _unfiltered_ or is there some basic DSP setting from like 150 Hz - 20k Hz ? The frequency ranges for both separate drivers are specified in Bobby Kinstle's sheet, but I like to be sure what to expect from the raw amp speaker input (that will go into my passive crossover).
2. Do I get VAGCOM "warnings" when both bottom A Pillar tweeters and rear-door tweeters aren't directly connected anymore (they now sharing the channel from the crossover package, not from the "physically" shared connection to the amp)? Same goes for the idea to (re)use the top A Pillar 3D tweeter connections for the bottom tweeters (which I don't swap, don't enable and don't care about ;-)), in that case the crossover for the front-door can be placed in the rear near the amp which is much better, but my original VAGCOM warning question about drivers that aren't directly connected anymore is still relevant in that situation.
I was a bit eager and ordered a set of Morel CAW638 in Germany (expecting them this week) and some AVC speaker rings from a local (Dutch) shop to start my project. Already documenting so I will definitely start a thread and share my project.
I'm still struggling what to do with both the Front Mid & Tweeter and Back MidWoofer & Tweeter in combination with a passive crossover. Both are sharing the same amp channel but are (as I understand) separately wired.
What I like to do for both situations is hiding my "crossover package" somewhere in the door, feed it with the original Mid (or MidWoofer for the rear door) speaker input and custom wire both Mid (MidWoofer) and Tweeter from this "package". Easy in the rear, because both drivers are in close proximity. For the front I need to wire something from the front-door to the A Pillar, a bit more work but can be done. Now the two major questions I have:
1. Are these specific "shared" channels _unfiltered_ or is there some basic DSP setting from like 150 Hz - 20k Hz ? The frequency ranges for both separate drivers are specified in Bobby Kinstle's sheet, but I like to be sure what to expect from the raw amp speaker input (that will go into my passive crossover).
2. Do I get VAGCOM "warnings" when both bottom A Pillar tweeters and rear-door tweeters aren't directly connected anymore (they now sharing the channel from the crossover package, not from the "physically" shared connection to the amp)? Same goes for the idea to (re)use the top A Pillar 3D tweeter connections for the bottom tweeters (which I don't swap, don't enable and don't care about ;-)), in that case the crossover for the front-door can be placed in the rear near the amp which is much better, but my original VAGCOM warning question about drivers that aren't directly connected anymore is still relevant in that situation.
I think you might benefit from creating a new thread as your upgrade is quite unique.
It takes a lot to pi55 me off and you are nowhere close. I just think this thread has gotten unusable for new users and you were not following a tried and tested route.
You might want to consider using my breakout board and plug combination that then basically allows you to reuse the wiring of the car but add anything you want between the B&O and the speakers.
Reusing the top tweeter wires as a separate speaker pair for the bottom tweeters is a trick I've suggested several times. Even the 3D sound mid on the dashboard end has a pair you can reuse for that purpose.
The B&O does raise an error for any disconnected speaker. But its only visible via diagnostic tools and not on the dashboard.
01-16-2023, 05:10 PM
MacGyver would be proud! 
