GoonerEm

Morning all,
At the risk of sounding silly, do any of you use an Audi specialist to get brake pads changed, or just a trusted local garage/mechanic(as I definitely can't do this myself!)? Been quoted £225 from an Audi Specialist to change the rear pads changed over which sounds a lot....? Surely pads don't come under things you need to get done by a dealer/specialist to keep the warranty valid?
Ta!

Nikon1

Warranty should not be involved as brake pads & rotors are considered “normal wear items.”

Whomever does the brake pad replacement will need an OBDEleven device to keep the e-brakes withdrawn / unlocked. Also, Audi recommends that pads & rotors be replaced at the same time.

Welcome to AudiWorld!

— John

mhoran89

correct. I would also make sure whoever is doing the work replaces the rear caliper carrier bolts (torque to yield). other than some general knowledge and a scan tool to open the rear pistons it is pretty simple. no reason to need to go to a dealer. you might be able to reuse the rear rotors, but honestly they are fairly inexpensive and doing the job twice is worse than once with new rotors. just my $0.02.

how many miles on the vehicle and did you have any braking issues or did the dealer or someone else let you know the pads need replacing? how much thickness is left on them?

GoonerEm

Thanks all, really appreciate the advice!
Last service I had was just under a year ago at 32,000m - was told then the rear pads were going to be needing changing over soonish.
Now on 37,000m and still no vibration in the pedal, no warning lights and stopping power feels fine, but they are a bit squeaky so I assume now is as good a time as any.

Asked a smaller independent garage who I have used before and very trustworthy - they have quoted £120 for a pad change. I'll ask him about the rotors.

Drives

I've just done my rear pads myself on my RS5 B9 with 33k miles. The discs had 55% wear left on so decided to keep them... but I had to skim the lips off both sides. I would not have pit then back on otherwise.
The most important thing you must do it to clean all of the surfaces in the caliper which the pads move against. Crud builds up overtime and lowers breaking force and even distribution of force over the discs. Then lubricate with ceramic grease. Makes a noticeable difference in breaking efficiency and will prolong the life of your discs

mhoran89

did you remove the discs and have them cut or were they cut with a special machine while on the car? or did you do it some other way?

Drives

I removed them and slimmed them on a lathe. My nrpther owns a small engineering shop with a few lathes and still remember how to ise them from when I was young.
I've heard mixed reports about skimming them in situ

mhoran89

must be nice to have that at the ready. did you trim the lips even with the face? did you cut the mating surface of the discs at all?

GoonerEm

This is a pic of my rear drivers side Rotor. Is this needing replacing along with the pads?

Drives

Depends on the thicknesses. New they are 32mm. Min is 30mm. Mine had 31.1 left, so was definitely worth keeping them on.
You may find the back of the disc is in worse condition, so worth checking it out.

Many garages say that discs should be changed at the same time as pads regardless of condition. But if you are going to skim them then its down to thickness.