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What can be wrong with the tire valve because this gauge does not show the pressure in one wheel? The other 3 work perfectly.I tried and repeated it many times and confirmed it. That particular valve worked normally yesterday because I took some air out and then added it again. i didnt try the same today to see if anything happened to the valve in the meantime
if I understood correctly this HPDE session takes place in Kansas City and I m Europe, thanks for sending me the link. About tire pressure gauge I had planned to buy a Jaco digital because it was tested from another audiworld forum member and after doing a little research on the internet I decided that I like that one the most, but today, completely unplanned, I saw a very good pressure gauge for 15 euros, and decided to buy it because in 2 minutes in the store I read so many good reviews and it turned out to be very precise and simple, its analogue but very similar to Jaco digital. This gauge shows me the pressure as soon as I put it on the valve, in the same second, is that normal?
Yes, that's normal to show the pressure immediately.
Regarding the HPDE, I sent a link to information about what to expect at and prepare for your first HPDE. This information is relatively universal and applies to most HPDEs anywhere. If you ever decide to try an HPDE, use any instructions from the event itself but also review the information in this link.
Yes, that's normal to show the pressure immediately.
Regarding the HPDE, I sent a link to information about what to expect at and prepare for your first HPDE. This information is relatively universal and applies to most HPDEs anywhere. If you ever decide to try an HPDE, use any instructions from the event itself but also review the information in this link.
I understand, great things. Thanks for the information and for the link.
You used pyrometer to confirm your test with side markers, do you have any adivce about buying pyrometer?
I understand, great things. Thanks for the information and for the link.
You used pyrometer to confirm your test with side markers, do you have any adivce about buying pyrometer?
A pyrometer might be overkill for your situation. I would start with the less costly approach that we have been discussing and move to a pyrometer only if you are not happy with the results. In my case, for example, I got tire pressures as good as I could get them using the same techniques, but handling was not the same going through right and left hand turns. The pyrometer helped me figure out the issue was alignment and my car is now more balanced in its handling after the alignment.
If you do decide to get one, there are many to choose from, and they range greatly in technology, price, etc. You can find a lot of information at:
If you click on the link above and scroll to the bottom of that page, there are several short articles on pyrometers that might help you decide which features are most important to you. Here are direct links to those four articles:
A pyrometer might be overkill for your situation. I would start with the less costly approach that we have been discussing and move to a pyrometer only if you are not happy with the results. In my case, for example, I got tire pressures as good as I could get them using the same techniques, but handling was not the same going through right and left hand turns. The pyrometer helped me figure out the issue was alignment and my car is now more balanced in its handling after the alignment.
If you do decide to get one, there are many to choose from, and they range greatly in technology, price, etc. You can find a lot of information at:
If you click on the link above and scroll to the bottom of that page, there are several short articles on pyrometers that might help you decide which features are most important to you. Here are direct links to those four articles:
I thought you used a pyrometer just to double check, but then I misunderstood you. You say well for my situation and for my way of driving it is not necessary. I would really like to have experience with the things you are talking about, but considering how much information and guidance you have sent me I will get there, I just need a little more time which I don't have right now. The things you sent me simply drag me deeper and deeper into that topic, and considering how much I love tires, that's it😀😀
Your pyrometar is really good 👍
This weekend i will try the test with side markers
If your test route has both right and left turns, mark all 4 tires, and adjust the air in each tire based on the scraping. After the testing and cool-down, I would use the highest pressure in the front for both front tires and the highest pressure in the rear for both rear tires.
If all the turns are in one direction, such as a cloverleaf, just mark the outside tires, but adjust the air on both sides of the car. For example, if you mark the left tires and put air in the left front, put the same amount of air in the right front.
"If all the turns are in one direction, just mark the outside tires". Do you mean if i turn only left in testing then I mark only right tires?
"If all the turns are in one direction, just mark the outside tires". Do you mean if i turn only left in testing then I mark only right tires?
Yes.
Regarding the pyrometer, get one if you want, but there's a significant cost to get a good one. I'm glad I have it, and I do use it from time to time, but start with the other method first. I have been adjusting tires for decades using the scrape method and it always worked fine until my current RS5. However, the RS5 handling was not the same on right and left hand turns after setting tire pressures, so I got the pyrometer to try and trouble shoot the problem. It helped me to identify the issue - the factory alignment on my new car was incorrect. I figure it was done at the factory first thing Monday morning, or at the end of the day on Friday.
Regarding the pyrometer, get one if you want, but there's a significant cost to get a good one. I'm glad I have it, and I do use it from time to time, but start with the other method first. I have been adjusting tires for decades using the scrape method and it always worked fine until my current RS5. However, the RS5 handling was not the same on right and left hand turns after setting tire pressures, so I got the pyrometer to try and trouble shoot the problem. It helped me to identify the issue - the factory alignment on my new car was incorrect. I figure it was done at the factory first thing Monday morning, or at the end of the day on Friday.
Great that you solved the problem with aligment.
Yes monday morning or Friday end of the day can be a probelm everywhere 😀
No. See the photo below. The White line is the initial chalk mark. It is perpendicular to the tread, not parallel to it. It starts on the top of the tread and goes past the triangle. Put it near the triangle so it is easier to evaluate after driving. Go drive through some turns briskly and inspect the chalk mark.
* If it looks like the Blue line there is little or no sidewall involvement, so the tire is over inflated. Let out 1 or 2 psi, replace the chalk line and test again.
* If it looks like the Red line there is too much sidewall involvement, so the tire is underinflated. Add 1 or 2 psi, replace the chalk line and test again.
* If it looks like the Green lines, it's good. Ideally, you want to hit the top of the triangle but, in practice, it won't always be that precise. Just get as close to the top of the triangle as you can, but not below or above the triangle.
Here are the same colored markings on a Michelin PS4S tire. Green is ideal, Red is under inflated and Blue is over inflated:
I drove the route 3 times today, the first was a warm-up and the second two were test (considering that in the third test I added a big turn on the highway in which I turned to the desired side for about 10-15 seconds and that's when I felt the biggest load on the side wall. (even though it was pretty solid until then, but I don't know is that lasted long enough. How can I know if I drove long enough and scraped the sidewall and if I should have driven even more aggressively?
Can you take a look the phoros and tell what you think about everything?
1st is before test
2nd ia after run 2
3rd adter run 3
I couldn't continue testing so I paused until I m sure.
I took into account that I did everything well and without additional checking (in the case of the picture, reduce the pressure by 0.1 bar, mark again with chalk and test again)
I just took off the air by 0.1 bar and now I will check the pressure on the cold tires in the morning.
I'll repeat the process when I m sure I m doing it right.
To check the accuracy of the tire pressure gauge I m interested how long it will take to take air from 2.4 to 2.3 or 0.1 Bar, 2 secund?
I drove the route 3 times today, the first was a warm-up and the second two were test (considering that in the third test I added a big turn on the highway in which I turned to the desired side for about 10-15 seconds and that's when I felt the biggest load on the side wall. (even though it was pretty solid until then, but I don't know is that lasted long enough. How can I know if I drove long enough and scraped the sidewall and if I should have driven even more aggressively?
Can you take a look the phoros and tell what you think about everything?
1st is before test
2nd ia after run 2
3rd adter run 3
I couldn't continue testing so I paused until I m sure.
I took into account that I did everything well and without additional checking (in the case of the picture, reduce the pressure by 0.1 bar, mark again with chalk and test again)
I just took off the air by 0.1 bar and now I will check the pressure on the cold tires in the morning.
I'll repeat the process when I m sure I m doing it right.
To check the accuracy of the tire pressure gauge I m interested how long it will take to take air from 2.4 to 2.3 or 0.1 Bar, 2 secund?
Yes, you are doing it correctly. The last photo above shows the tire is still slightly over inflated. I would remove a little bit more. You want the scraping to at least touch the top of the triangle when you are driving briskly/assertively/aggressively in corners.
Regarding the accuracy of the gauge, it does not matter all that much as long as you use the same pressure gauge each time. Your goal is to be able to return the tires to the correct inflation level as needed. So, worry less about the absolute bar number on the gauge and more about the scraping. Once the scraping is correct, let the tires cool and check the number. Just re-inflate to that number on that gauge when necessary So, for example, if your gauge is off by 2 bar, so what? Just inflate to the number on your gauge, whatever that is, as long as you are using the same gauge over time. The only time the absolute number is important is if you change gauges. If you do change gauges, just redo the scraping test with the new gauge.
Moving forward, if you do end up going to HPDEs and you learn to navigate corners more quickly, redo the scraping test as your driving skills evolve to make sure the pressures still fit your evolving driving style.
You should also monitor tread depth over time just to make sure the pressures are giving you even tire wear across the tread surface. Use a tire wear gauge - you want equal depth on the inside, middle and outside areas of the tread (see the arrows in the image below). So, for example, measure the depth at the center of the tread, then again at the inner and outer tread close to the edges (but not on the sidewall). Ideally, the tires will wear evenly over time and the depths will be the same. If the center has less tread depth than the outer edges the tire is over inflated; if the center has more tread, then the tire is under inflated; if one edge (inside or outside) is wearing faster than the other, or you see cupping on the tire tread, you have an alignment issue.
Finally, don't forget that the tire pressures are dependent on cold tire, and that the ambient air temperature can affect this. So, you should double-check your pressures as the weather and seasons change. If your tires are correctly inflated in warm summer temperatures they will be underinflated when the weather turns cold. Just strive to keep your cold pressures the same (as measured by your gauge) as the weather changes.
04-07-2024, 11:36 AM
