dug01

Dealer recommended EBC--(Owner supplied)I put EBC green stuff on my Z3 roadster and I like them--but--the Audi listings do not specify Allroad--I have an '03 AR 2.7t--are the pads same as the A6 2.7t sedan?? Why does it say "8 pad set" for front(I don't need the back) is this a good choice for low dust street use?? How much work is it to change the pads myself?? The recent write up here in the forum was for an older AR and my '03 caliper is different.

paulroad

Mintex makes noise.

Schumiusedtowin

First set of EBc green (2001) had OEM rotors for breakfast, lunch and dinner. Poor install at the time (not done by me).

2 years later I got EBC sport rotors with EBC pads again with proper install and complete reconditionin of calipers. I helped the guys in shop doing it.

Their newest generation claims to help bedding in pads better. Also helps if you flush brake fluid entirely.

Many folks did not have luck with them but I could not be happier.<ul><li><a href="http://www.ebcbrakes.com/Automotive.html">http://www.ebcbrakes.com/Automotive.html</a</li></ul>

ar-Rings

the "green stuff" pads and the EBC rotors. They're rotors are drilled and slotted BUT not completely thru the rotor surface, as to help reduce the possability of crack development. That can and do happen on rotors that are drilled and/or slotted completly thru the rotor face.

allroad'Ed now

I have them and they have been great. Not much dust, great bite, no noise. This is for the 4 pad set (as opposed to the 8 pad set of the earlier calipers.) They even have the right sensor plug. As schumiwins7 said, follow the bedding-in procedure and you'll have no issues.

paulroad

and I'll add a bit of mechanical sence to this.. Slots and holes in the rotors have a + and -. While they do help to cool down the rotors a bit, but they also tend to warp sooner as there is less metal to absorb the heat/friction. (double edged sword) They also cause the pads to wear a bit faster as the leading edges of the slot or holes tend to abraid the pad.

If you are an aggressive driver or doing track days a lot or let's face it you just like the look...then go for it.

allroad'Ed now

when you drill holes in a rotor, you've removed some surface area, so the pad has less surface to grip. Often, just drilling a rotor without making it bigger leads to increased pedal pressure required to stop. On my old A6, I replaced the stock rotors with a set of stock/ drilled rotors. Quite noticable how much more pedal pressure was required to stop. But the rotors worked much better in the rain, and stayed cooler.

Slotted rotors usually eat pads, because each slot is like a razor blade scraping across the pad each revolution. But the upside is it also wipes away moisture and any built up brake dust.

But both slotted and drilled rotors tend to run cooler because both have increased surface area exposed to the air to disipate heat, rather than channeling the heat through the rotor to the hub, wheel bearings, brake fluid etc. But that's typically only on the track

FWIW- I cracked two drilled rotors on my old 911. Every hole is a place for a minute spider crack to begin. Kinda like getting a small stone chip in a windshield. As the rotor cools, it cracks.

Everything is a trade-off.