Paging Trango!! Caliper install Question
07-06-2007, 08:36 PM
#2
AudiWorld Uber User
Dude, keep it one thread per page please!
07-07-2007, 03:58 PM
#6
Jiminy - I went on vacation.
So I installed the calipers on the inboard side of the strut, as it sounds like you've been mocking up.
Bear in mind that you should be using extremely high grade bolts to fasten caliper to strut. I used some from McMaster Carr, in the 12.9 grade. You will also need to either drill out your strut to 16mm and use a 16mm bolt (assuming your caliper is like mine and has a 16mm bore), or use an radial spacer (better called a bushing) to size up a 14mm bolt to fully engage the 16mm bore on the caliper mounting ears. Reviewing options, I would highly disadvise drilling unless you can totally dismount the strut, precision bore it, and account for any loss of hardness or material (or have a bit custom-made that had a 14mm mandrel and flutes out to 16mm). In less than armchair-machinist conjecture, this would not be a candidate for hand drilling.
I guess it's time to document somewhat. For fasteners/hardware (running to garage to grab McMaster-Carr receipt), I used the following:
1. Pack of five --- 14mm, Metric grade 12.9 socket head bolts, part number 91290A749, 70mm long. Note that this was TOO long, and these needed to be cut down by 15-25mm). Therefore, use that part number as a starting point.
2. A pack of five matching, conical top, locknuts, part number 93795A257.
3. Matching washers for the caliper side of the fastener, big 4mm thick jobbies, part number 98040A108.
4. Now, you need that bushing: I used 3 of the following bushings for each caliper. I cut one in half, and used one of those halfs along with a whole one to serve as the bushing for the 16mm caliper bore, to reduce it to 14mm. Technically, these are bearings, but whatever - they'll work.
Part number 6679K18.
That's pretty much the extent of the tech to mount them. I don't know what you're using for bolts, but without actually *engineering* these bolts, you should use the best possible quality. In other words, expect to pay $40 to get some quality fasteners until someone who knows these loads, or the strength of the oem bolts, pipes up and tells you (and whomever else) that such effort is unnecessary. That is as much disclaimer as advice.
I tried, btw, to put my 17" double spokes onto the setup after getting everything set up. This is after I had already set up the B6 Avus's with a large spacer. Well, just for giggles, I pulled off the spacers, and test fit a double spoke. I found that while the 17's looked like they would fit, the radial margin was much less than I would have felt comfortable with - like 1/8" or less - the margin was so thin that an adhesive wheel weight would be so far out of the question for co-location.
Finally, I have a few weeks on the brakes, and my only concern is some moaning/light-grinding noise from the left caliper, such as you'd hear if a pad sticks. I haven't had time to debug this issue, but I'd like to as schedules permit.
Oh yeah, did you investigate that other Mercedes rotor, the one I linked to? Just saying - you may want to. I would caution against copying my prototype, which has, after all, been in testing for less than a month (and with full pads, no less) if something better exists for a rotor. I don't know if your interest is in duplicating, learning, or assisting with this tech, but if you have any leanings towards the latter two, I'd especially investigate that rotor, and let's communicate on what measurements you find when you use a caliper to measure those two rotors.
I have the idle time of a few weeks into this project. If you could do those measurements in like 15 minutes it would be pretty sweet, since using my baseline measurements, along with the qualia of having done this now with the 203 rotor and seeing how it sits, we'd be in a position to determine alot (which would have been impossible a priori).<ul><li><a href="http://www.mcmaster.com/">Click here, and then search for part numbers.</a></li></ul>
Bear in mind that you should be using extremely high grade bolts to fasten caliper to strut. I used some from McMaster Carr, in the 12.9 grade. You will also need to either drill out your strut to 16mm and use a 16mm bolt (assuming your caliper is like mine and has a 16mm bore), or use an radial spacer (better called a bushing) to size up a 14mm bolt to fully engage the 16mm bore on the caliper mounting ears. Reviewing options, I would highly disadvise drilling unless you can totally dismount the strut, precision bore it, and account for any loss of hardness or material (or have a bit custom-made that had a 14mm mandrel and flutes out to 16mm). In less than armchair-machinist conjecture, this would not be a candidate for hand drilling.
I guess it's time to document somewhat. For fasteners/hardware (running to garage to grab McMaster-Carr receipt), I used the following:
1. Pack of five --- 14mm, Metric grade 12.9 socket head bolts, part number 91290A749, 70mm long. Note that this was TOO long, and these needed to be cut down by 15-25mm). Therefore, use that part number as a starting point.
2. A pack of five matching, conical top, locknuts, part number 93795A257.
3. Matching washers for the caliper side of the fastener, big 4mm thick jobbies, part number 98040A108.
4. Now, you need that bushing: I used 3 of the following bushings for each caliper. I cut one in half, and used one of those halfs along with a whole one to serve as the bushing for the 16mm caliper bore, to reduce it to 14mm. Technically, these are bearings, but whatever - they'll work.
Part number 6679K18.
That's pretty much the extent of the tech to mount them. I don't know what you're using for bolts, but without actually *engineering* these bolts, you should use the best possible quality. In other words, expect to pay $40 to get some quality fasteners until someone who knows these loads, or the strength of the oem bolts, pipes up and tells you (and whomever else) that such effort is unnecessary. That is as much disclaimer as advice.
I tried, btw, to put my 17" double spokes onto the setup after getting everything set up. This is after I had already set up the B6 Avus's with a large spacer. Well, just for giggles, I pulled off the spacers, and test fit a double spoke. I found that while the 17's looked like they would fit, the radial margin was much less than I would have felt comfortable with - like 1/8" or less - the margin was so thin that an adhesive wheel weight would be so far out of the question for co-location.
Finally, I have a few weeks on the brakes, and my only concern is some moaning/light-grinding noise from the left caliper, such as you'd hear if a pad sticks. I haven't had time to debug this issue, but I'd like to as schedules permit.
Oh yeah, did you investigate that other Mercedes rotor, the one I linked to? Just saying - you may want to. I would caution against copying my prototype, which has, after all, been in testing for less than a month (and with full pads, no less) if something better exists for a rotor. I don't know if your interest is in duplicating, learning, or assisting with this tech, but if you have any leanings towards the latter two, I'd especially investigate that rotor, and let's communicate on what measurements you find when you use a caliper to measure those two rotors.
I have the idle time of a few weeks into this project. If you could do those measurements in like 15 minutes it would be pretty sweet, since using my baseline measurements, along with the qualia of having done this now with the 203 rotor and seeing how it sits, we'd be in a position to determine alot (which would have been impossible a priori).<ul><li><a href="http://www.mcmaster.com/">Click here, and then search for part numbers.</a></li></ul>
07-08-2007, 04:52 AM
#7
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Re: Jiminy - I went on vacation.
Hello Trango hope you had a good vacation, Thanks for this information. Yes I was mocking up , and you had the answer I needed. The MB dealer has the rotors instock and also im going to check on the other p/n rotors and compare and will take measurements and defintely pass it on to you. Not much clearance on the stock wheel but only on the part of the rim closest to the spoke then it tapers down as you move inboard.. I went to the porsche dealer and got 2ea. rotors for free.these things are huge! If you need any measurements let me know.
Talk too you soon
Charlie
Talk too you soon
Charlie
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07-08-2007, 07:19 AM
#8
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You're generating lots and lots of threads like the forum is your personal messaging service
most of which, go unanswered. How about email? Or how about adding each new question to the original thread you started about the topic?
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