uber_ar

Maybe I should have said I'm Lazy!!! What Day did you want to come over and do this???

gragravar

how did you get to yours?

skidmark

happy with results. The improvement I noticed most was increase in torque/spool up of turbos. Living in the mountains where you live, you will probably notice that quite quickly too.

RMcQ

It's a good bit of labor. If you are not a shade tree mechanic at minimum I would just get your local tuner to do it.

blackIIIroad

Hope all is well.

Trango

Steve, I await any write up you can produce. TIA.

skidmark

n hose, and the anti-freeze reservoir on the right side. Then you need a #5 hex head with extensions to reach down to undo 2 green bolts on each side that hold heat shield on which cover turbo downpipe precat.(magnetize #5 hex so you don't lose bolts) You also need to loosen the top #17 nut on top of downpipes from engine bay, you are going to need a long box end wrench to loosen nuts. You will need to remove whatever you need from firewall to get your hand down to were you can reach nut to remove without dropping it. You can remove main o2 sensors from engine bay also, I removed them from bottom, but it's your call.

Then jack up car, remove belly pan, front tires, and put jack stands to support car wherever, and whatever order you are comfortable with. You need a #6 hex to remove the 3 green bolts per side which hold heat shield above axles. When removed you will see the last 3 per side #17 nuts which need to be removed from turbo to release downpipe, also you need a flat blade screwdriver(pretty long) to loosen hose clamp which holds bottom of turbo/precat heat shield to downpipe.

You should be able to figure out how to remove exhaust yourself(pretty simple), it helps to have #17 wrenches with open ends cut at different angles because your wrenching room is tight, I made a #17 open end wrench were I ground most of the support from each side so I had more turning room(only use once nuts are loose though so you don't break it). The o2 sensors are #22 or 7/8 iirc, I broke them free with a #22 open end wrench, but you may need a o2 socket, or crows wrench(iirc) if you don't have the hand strength.

Piggie pipe, I would use Ryans approach, I gutted downpipes with the biggest masonary bit I could find laying around, and a tire iron to beat out the metal mesh stuff. I moved o2 sensor behind main cat, by welding new bung holes, but Ryans approach appears to work also, so whichever is easier for you. Use anti-seize on bolts,and nuts when putting back together along with o2 sensor threads(carefully), I would use some high temp silicone gasket material so you have no leaks between downpipe,and turbos.

Time to do will depend on skills, and if you have help, but it would take no longer then a weekend for average person I would say working by themselves.

gragravar

Awesome! thanks!