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TB Job then “knocking”

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Old 08-17-2018, 08:27 AM
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Default TB Job then “knocking”

Hey there allroad peeps! 1st post here.. got an 2002 Audi Allroad 2.7t (yay).

Moving on.. So I followed the instructions on ECS website as well as countless other YouTube videos to a “T”. First R&R of timing belt and water pump/thermostat. As well as R&R of valve cover gaskets, tensioner gaskets/ “half moon” gaskets, and coil & plug gaskets. During removal of the harmonic balancer I noticed the “timing marks” were off from one another.. also the timing for the camshafts were off as well (engine ran “rich” before the job FYI) Completed the job and remembered the timing was off for all 3 timing components by 2 to 3 degrees from TDC. Reset the timing marks to where the notches all lined up again perfectly. Filled the coolant lines and then bled the coolant lines as the instructions stated. Upon turning over the motor for initial start the motor runs very very rough now (sounds almost like an engine knock on the passenger side of the engine bay).. I suspect the worst in that the timing was off the whole year (or more) of owning the car.. by resetting the timing components I think the valve may be hitting on the piston now. But the car never “knocked” before now and the timing was off then why would the knock happen now with timing components fully aligned??
Old 08-18-2018, 05:00 AM
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Did you remove the timing chain tensioners to replace the halfmoons? is it possible that one of the cams is out of phase? The car being out of timing before won't make it more likely to have a problem when correct now. Assuming you put the crank lock pin in, and set both cam gears with the correct tool, you'd be least likely to have a problem. However, the chains on the cams could ALSO be causing major problems, especially if the intake cam is out of phase.
Old 08-18-2018, 05:51 AM
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The guy that was helping me had been working on cars for quite a while and said that chain tensioner locking pin tool wasn’t needed, so I proceeded with the job without that and set them manually. I did use the camshaft locking tool that sits on the front of the block through the sprockets. I’m tearing back into the engine a bit today with an endoscope camera to see if I can see any damage to the valves.. if that’s not the case I’ve heard from the forums and some videos it could even be as simple as a hydraulic lifter? I appreciate the guidance with the out of phase comment, I will check that next. Also it needs to be said here some videos I watched the guys would lube up the camshafts with a bottle of oil before putting it all back together, I did not perform this step because I figured the oil in the system would satisfy that metal on metal lubrication needed. Thanks again
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