hey, so my 2002 Allroad runs great, although as soon as it shifts to 4th gear it just slams the gear and it seems as it goes to neutral(just revs when I hit the gas) and it throws following codes, If i manually keep it in 3dh gear it runs fine. until 4th gear it shifts smoothly.
Anyone has idea what t his could be? Bad transmission or TCM??



Address 02: Auto Trans Labels: 01V-927-156.lbl

Control Module Part Number: 4Z7 927 156 F

Component and/or Version: AG5 01V 2.7l5VT USA 1818

Software Coding: 01002

Work Shop Code: WSC 02335

VCID: 4992EF6C59D1

4 Faults Found:



17114 - Gear Ratio Monitoring: Incorrect Gear Ratio

P0730 - 35-10 - - - Intermittent

17086 - Transm. Control Module Electrical Malf. (SAE) or Control Module Defective (VAG)

P0702 - 35-10 - - - Intermittent

17118 - Gear 4: Incorrect Ratio

P0734 - 35-00 - -

18114 - Transmission Faulty

P1706 - 35-00 - -

 

also, after reseting the codes only first two codes showed up the second time i checked.

 

Try this:

Run in Tiptronic mode with 3rd gear selected. Get the RPMs high enough that you can quickly execute a double upshift into 5th gear. Does the problem you described show up?

I'm wondering if either the PRESSURE CONTROL VALVE N217 or the "B" CLUTCH are at fault. These items are inside the transmission. If N217 is at fault the cause might be a bad electrical connection or a stuck valve.

 

i tried upshifting to 5th gear but the problem remains the same, it just slams and revs up

 

Rats...I was referring to the 01L transmission when I mentioned N217 and clutch B. You've got an 01V / 5HP19 transmission. The problem might be with Clutch E or Solenoid N89.

I do not believe the problem is with the Torque Converter.

Let's try this:

Does Reverse engage correctly?

If reverse works fine then the problem is not with solenoid N89, and Clutch E would be the most likely candidate.

How many miles on the car? To your knowledge has the transmission fluid ever been changed?

 

reverse always works perfectly fine... 110k miles and by the look of the bolts on the pan it doesn't look like it has been changed ever.
so i shouldnt even boder at checking TCM like getting a used one of the junkyard and trying it out?

 

(EDIT...I am not an expert in diagnosing Audi transmissions. I am just applying the logic discussed in the Audi technical guide mentioned below. I could be way off in my analysis of the problem described by the OP of this thread.)

My thought regarding the TCM is that unless you know it was wet (from water backing up in the battery tray cowling or sunroof drains and finding its way to the floor of the passenger side of the vehicle) that the TCM is likely fine. I suppose a large electrical transient might have cause a problem, but then other things in the car would be problematic.

If the clutch E in the transmission is slipping, it could be from a worn clutch or too low of a fluid level or whatever. If the clutch is slipping, the transmission fluid can overheat and take on a terrible burnt smell. From Audi's "The 01V and 01L Automatic Transmissions Technician Reference Guide Course Number 951902" training manual:
Also:
(That last sentence means: "The transmission must be re-built if the transmission fluid is burnt.")

Here's a link to the Audi 01V and 01L technical reference guide:

http://avtopedia.ru/akpp/audi_o1v_o1vl.pdf

The transmission fluid can be checked or changed without removing the transmission pan. To change the filter within the transmission, the pan must be dropped. I suggest you read the following DIY for an understanding of the transmission fluid change procedure. It's a very nice DIY write up by Jim Cappuccio. You'll read that to simply check the fluid level or to add fluid, the car must be up in the air with the tires off the ground, and the engine must be running.

http://www.audiction.com/audi-mainte...-fluid-change/

The transmission fluid is never "flushed", just drained and replaced using the method described by Jim Cappucio. Never ever let anyone power flush the transmission fluid.

Because Reverse is working, I believe Clutch E is at fault. To fix this, the transmission must be removed from the car and rebuilt...or just install a re-built one and send your "core" back to the supplier. In either case, the great majority of Audi owners will use a specialist in changing Audi transmissions. Replacing your transmission with a re-built one is probably the better option because everything else inside the transmission would be fixed/replaced. At the same time, you should install a re-built Torque Converter just to be smart. The re-built TC will have the new seal to replace the original style which invariably leaks. The labor cost to install a re-built TC while changing the transmission is $0.

 

Where are you located?

Are you using your own VCDS, or is one available to you?

 

Wow, thank you so much for taking time to write all that. That clears many things up. so my next step will be checking the fluid.
i live in Detroit area, and my friend worked at the audi dealer so he has VCDS, and actually he told me to check the tcm because he seen many of them get burned due to clogged line in sunroof and by the ambient air filter.