Coolant leak right above the front side of the oil pan?
01-05-2008, 08:59 AM
#5
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its basically the same as doing a timing belt job. I suppose you could save time
by not removing the crank pulley and re-using the t-belt.
SJM's site has good advice and pictures.<ul><li><a href="http://www.sjmautotechnik.com/trouble_shooting/S4timing.htm">http://www.sjmautotechnik.com/trouble_shooting/S4timing.htm</a</li></ul>
SJM's site has good advice and pictures.<ul><li><a href="http://www.sjmautotechnik.com/trouble_shooting/S4timing.htm">http://www.sjmautotechnik.com/trouble_shooting/S4timing.htm</a</li></ul>
01-05-2008, 09:55 AM
#6
No but there used to be a good left up. Been deleted. (edit)
Sorry, it was just there and I am too weak (to resist).
Like Sean says, the only way to the water pump is the same amount of work to get to the timing belt. Most people do the water pump when they do the timing belt. Avoid water pumps with plastic parts, e.g. Graf. You want all metal German built, like Hepu.
Like Sean says, the only way to the water pump is the same amount of work to get to the timing belt. Most people do the water pump when they do the timing belt. Avoid water pumps with plastic parts, e.g. Graf. You want all metal German built, like Hepu.
01-05-2008, 01:20 PM
#7
AudiWorld Senior Member
If the water pump bearing/seal is bad then you better also replace the tensioner and idler
They all tend to have about the same life. And as long as you are in there doing all that the T-belt is only another $30. If you don't do all this you will be crying when the next thing goes and half of your valves are bent.
