interested in possibly picking up a 1993 urS4. few questions for the AW croud
01-31-2009, 09:24 PM
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interested in possibly picking up a 1993 urS4. few questions for the AW croud
im coming from a C5 A6 2.7T and it was such a fun car. the most common failures on these are things like electrical sensors (O2, CTS, MAF, etc) crapping out, control arms/suspension bushings failing, and an occasional visit from the turbo lady (usually because of clogged oil passages). plus a timing belt job that runs $800-1100 from an indy.
can anyone shed some light what id be getting myself into picking up a 93 urS4 with approx 150K miles? what are the weak points? suspension, brakes, turbo, electronics, transmission? what about other things like oil leaks/seals, head gaskets, wheel bearings?
basically i would love to hear everyone just shout out all the maintenance theyve done on your S4's, how much labor to fix, and how long certain parts last... Thanks in advance guys
can anyone shed some light what id be getting myself into picking up a 93 urS4 with approx 150K miles? what are the weak points? suspension, brakes, turbo, electronics, transmission? what about other things like oil leaks/seals, head gaskets, wheel bearings?
basically i would love to hear everyone just shout out all the maintenance theyve done on your S4's, how much labor to fix, and how long certain parts last... Thanks in advance guys
01-31-2009, 09:29 PM
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Check out...
The S-cars.org buyer's guide. Pretty much sums everything up.<ul><li><a href="http://www.s-cars.org/postnuke/modules.php?op=modload&name=News&file=arti cle&sid=181&mode=thread&order=0&th old=0">http://www.s-cars.org/postnuke/modules.php?op=modload&name=News&file=arti cle&sid=18
01-31-2009, 09:31 PM
#3
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also, if anyone is aware of a well maintained urS4 for sale, feel free to forward it to me =)
i have my eye on two right now, both with ~150K miles.
mint black/ecru, stock motor, H&R springs over bilstein shocks, pretty much stock otherwise.
and a decent looking pearl white/black, RS2 turbo, injectors, FMIC and 034 tuning.
mint black/ecru, stock motor, H&R springs over bilstein shocks, pretty much stock otherwise.
and a decent looking pearl white/black, RS2 turbo, injectors, FMIC and 034 tuning.
02-01-2009, 08:29 AM
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Can you pass the pearl white link on for me?
I promise you have first dibs on it, but I've been looking for a pearl white/black on for months and have only turned up one that was sold already
02-01-2009, 08:32 AM
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Read the FAQ that floats around here. Try to find a nice example that has been well maintained
And has records out the ***. The FAQ lists a bunch of things to look out for. From what I've read, owning these cars is a lot easier/nicer if you can DIY most of the work. They seem to last forever (look down the page a few posts; there's a thread re: highest mileage...and a few cars with 250k on them)
02-01-2009, 09:00 AM
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no problem. its all yours.
that is if you want it after seeing pictures.
the drivetrain does seem to be very solid. i spoke with the owner a few days ago on the phone and asked him to send me more pics... lots of rust, jacked up hood, body panels dont look good... im not gonna go for it, but if you feel like doing some body work it may be a fun project.<ul><li><a href="http://www.autosunderten.com/auto_listing.php?VehicleID=1863982">http://www.autosunderten.com/auto_listing.php?VehicleID=1863982</a</li></ul>
the drivetrain does seem to be very solid. i spoke with the owner a few days ago on the phone and asked him to send me more pics... lots of rust, jacked up hood, body panels dont look good... im not gonna go for it, but if you feel like doing some body work it may be a fun project.<ul><li><a href="http://www.autosunderten.com/auto_listing.php?VehicleID=1863982">http://www.autosunderten.com/auto_listing.php?VehicleID=1863982</a</li></ul>
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02-01-2009, 06:17 PM
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it's not WAAAAAAAY easier, just more engine room, but problems are pretty much the same
fking coilpacks, control arms wear out too (there are just less of them that you have to replace), o2 crap out, MAFs crap out, turbo is a bit more reliable but at high mileage like he is talking 150K it will be a few years and his turbo will be ****ty too, boost leaks, n75 valve, break booster (bomb) gets weak, stupid steering rack, so on and so forth... not mention spark plugs that untighten themselves once in a while.
Things like shocks and wheel bearings are common wear out items so that will depend on the mileage of the car, if it's 100K+ expect normal wear and tear items to require attention.
If one can maintain a 2.7t then he won't have too much trouble with a 2.2t, but that doesn't mean it's going to be WAAAAAAAY easier. Cost difference in parts isn't that big, but one will be buying the car for less money to begin with so that's their biggest cost saving.
Things like shocks and wheel bearings are common wear out items so that will depend on the mileage of the car, if it's 100K+ expect normal wear and tear items to require attention.
If one can maintain a 2.7t then he won't have too much trouble with a 2.2t, but that doesn't mean it's going to be WAAAAAAAY easier. Cost difference in parts isn't that big, but one will be buying the car for less money to begin with so that's their biggest cost saving.
02-02-2009, 12:41 AM
#10
Put down the Crack Pipe ... UrS4 *IS* WAY WAAAY WAAAAAAAAAAY easier than 2.7T
I'm in the middle of a diagnosing a bad 2.7T Head, it's taken months to solve a problem I fixed in a week on the AAN
Here's an example of why, for the simple task of removing the Valve/Camshaft cover to check timing marks on the camshaft
On the 2.2 = 10mins
- Unscrew & remove Coil Pack cover
- Unscrew valve cover
- Unscrew PCV & Oil line clamps
- Remove cover
Same task on 2.7T = 45mins ~ 1hr
- Remove engine covers
- Remove MAF & Accordian Hose
- Remove Pipe to Air Box
- Disconnect fuel lines from top of Air Box
- Disconnect POS on Air Box
- Unscrew & Remove Air Box
- Unscrew Clamps on DV & Y-Pipe
- Unscrew & Remove Y-Pipe
- Unscrew Coolant reservoir and move off to the side
- Disconnect Brake Vacuum Line
- Disconnect line to Emissions Canister
The following steps need to be performed twice, once per side
- Unscrew Clamps and remove Upper Intake Pipes (PIA)
... and be careful not to let *ANY* contaminants in those intake pipes, or goodbye K03's
- Disconnect Coilpack cables
- Unscrew & Remove Coilpacks
- Disconnect PCV lines
- Cut tie-wraps holding cables to cover
- Unscrew and remove SAI valve (major PIA)
- Unscrew & Remove Valve Cover
... hooray, now go get a beer to commiserate completing this f...ing PIA ...
And you're seriously going to tell anyone the AAN is not WAY easier ? What are you on ?
Here's an example of why, for the simple task of removing the Valve/Camshaft cover to check timing marks on the camshaft
On the 2.2 = 10mins
- Unscrew & remove Coil Pack cover
- Unscrew valve cover
- Unscrew PCV & Oil line clamps
- Remove cover
Same task on 2.7T = 45mins ~ 1hr
- Remove engine covers
- Remove MAF & Accordian Hose
- Remove Pipe to Air Box
- Disconnect fuel lines from top of Air Box
- Disconnect POS on Air Box
- Unscrew & Remove Air Box
- Unscrew Clamps on DV & Y-Pipe
- Unscrew & Remove Y-Pipe
- Unscrew Coolant reservoir and move off to the side
- Disconnect Brake Vacuum Line
- Disconnect line to Emissions Canister
The following steps need to be performed twice, once per side
- Unscrew Clamps and remove Upper Intake Pipes (PIA)
... and be careful not to let *ANY* contaminants in those intake pipes, or goodbye K03's
- Disconnect Coilpack cables
- Unscrew & Remove Coilpacks
- Disconnect PCV lines
- Cut tie-wraps holding cables to cover
- Unscrew and remove SAI valve (major PIA)
- Unscrew & Remove Valve Cover
... hooray, now go get a beer to commiserate completing this f...ing PIA ...
And you're seriously going to tell anyone the AAN is not WAY easier ? What are you on ?